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Message started by serenity3743 on 08/19/09 at 13:46:23

Title: Anti seize and thread lock
Post by serenity3743 on 08/19/09 at 13:46:23

I see these two items referred to alot on the forum. Are they the same thing or different? What are their purposes and how do they work? I've never used either, which could explain why I nearly always end up with broken or stripped bolts when I work on the bike. :-/

Title: Re: Anti seize and thread lock
Post by Skid Mark on 08/19/09 at 15:21:39

The short story:
Anti seize makes it easier to remove screws & bolts & nuts.
Thread lock helps prevent screws, bolts & nuts from comming loose when you don't want them to.

You need to do some research as there are many different products for different applications. If you are not careful you could put on the wrong thread lock and never unscrew what you applied it to.

If you are on a specific project, post it on the forum and I'm sure someone here can steer you in the right direction for these products.

Title: Re: Anti seize and thread lock
Post by runwyrlph on 08/19/09 at 15:47:36

thread lock comes in several colors - blue is the one you want - keeps screws from rattling out, but doesn't make them impossible to remove when needed

never seize usually comes in a (approximately) pint jar. looks like metallic greasy slime. usually outside is covered with filthy, greasy fingerprints. never seize goes on things you barely got apart because they were so tight and you don't want to kill yourself if you ever try to take it apart again.

my favorite place for never seize is on brake caliper bolts on my car

Title: Re: Anti seize and thread lock
Post by Midnightrider on 08/19/09 at 15:58:44

Serenity when you ride to Winston to get your windshield I'll show you the difference. A bolt that is subject to rust needs anti sieze. A bolt you dont want vibrating loose needs blue thread lock.

Title: Re: Anti seize and thread lock
Post by Phelonius on 08/19/09 at 16:25:49

The Auto parts store in my town sells anti seize in little squeeze tubes about 4 inches long. For motorcycle work one tube will last so long that you will buy another when you lose the first one.

Phelonius

Title: Re: Anti seize and thread lock
Post by serenity3743 on 08/20/09 at 05:01:15

Thanks, guys, for your advice. I'm soon going to disassemble down to the cylinder because my head gasket is leaking (and no, it's not the rubber plug, as I've already sealed it and I still see the leak on the left side of the engine just below the junction of the cylinder and head). While the bike is apart, I'm planning a new cam chain, chain adjuster mod, and stainless steel bolt set for everything. And I'm planning a new paint job for all the tins. I've got to get me a digital camera so I can post pics of the job as it progresses.

Midnight, I need to try to get over your way pretty soon before I start all this work. :)

Title: Re: Anti seize and thread lock
Post by voldigicam on 08/20/09 at 05:56:45

Anti-seize also seems to keep corrosion between dissimilar metals down. Not too much is needed. I'm using my can from 1976 still - but it's only 1/4 full now!

For either lock or seize, clean all the threads inside and out. If you're dealing with a rusty stud, use a dremel brush or something. This is worth doing. If you're dealing with a rusted screw or nut, don't. Just replace the fastner. Seriously. With a better quality one. For steel into aluminum, use spray cleaner to blow out the hole, too.

Antiseize - no need to lather on. You want a thin uniform coat. A little dab and then run up the threads with rag. Careful - it tends to adhere to everything. It's especially good on black bikes!!!

Lock is always a compromise. You don't want corrosion, but the lock needs to adhere. No rust allowed. Very clean. A tiny bit of lock goes a long way. I tend to put lock so that only the outermost threads will be locked. Too much lock - well. You'll know you had too much when you attempt to disassemble!!!

I never use studmount red. If the stud breaks off I want to be able to get it out.

I haven't found anything loose on the 650. I'm putting seize on most things and properly torquing. I suspect most loosening problems are from light torquing. Get a torque wrench and use it.

And if a nut clearly isn't going to come off, use a nut breaker to split it off if at all possible. No damage to the threads. Clean, lube, & put on a new nut.

Sometimes things just break off. Isn't too hard to drill something out that's off the machine. On the machine is more difficult. Ideally get the piece in a vice on a drill press or milling machine, line everything up nicely, and drill the center of the broken off thing out. If I get a hole started very nicely lined up, then I'll go ahead and drill almost out to the threads. Then the remains are easy to clean out. Chase the threads with a die prior to reusing. The corrosion that led to seizing in the first place will leave seeds.

I'm remembering why I left being a mechanic . . . .