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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> clutch/start up pull /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1250006859 Message started by dmike on 08/11/09 at 09:07:38 |
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Title: clutch/start up pull Post by dmike on 08/11/09 at 09:07:38 Does anyone else have a clutch that doesn't completly "disengage" when they pull the cluch handle in? When I start my bike and I am in first, it pulls on me. So, if I wouldn't would let it, starting in first with the clutch handle in would start me rolling. It is hard to roll the bike when I have the handle in and I am in first too. Once I have the bike warmed up and been riding for a little, this pretty much goes away. I had the bike in for a "10 point" service, since I just bought it and wanted to have a dealer look it over and I told them about it. They changed the clutch cable a little and the settings at the clutch handle, and said they fixed it, well they didn't. When I check the end of the clutch cable (the metal lever that the clutch cable pulls up) it seems like the cable isn't over tight and pulling up on the cluch lever which I thought would have been the problem. Any suggestions? |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by verslagen1 on 08/11/09 at 09:15:33 If you look at the case behind the clutch lever, you'll see 2 lines on the case (not easy to see) Where is the lever in relation to those lines (should be inbetween) And your clutch lever, when you pull it enough to take up the slack, how much gap is there between the lever and the perch? (should be about an 1/8" to 1/4") |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by photojoe on 08/11/09 at 09:16:44 This really seems like a simple cable adjustment to me. Adjust the cable on the handlebar adjustment (pull boot back if you have one) and turn it right or left until the bike starts moving when the lever is about 1/2" out. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by photojoe on 08/11/09 at 09:17:47 Sorry V, we were writing at the same time. But I think we both agree that the bike should start moving with some play in the lever. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by verslagen1 on 08/11/09 at 09:55:56 31292E352E2B2E410 wrote:
Attacking the same problem from different ends of the spectrum, I like it. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by youzguyz on 08/11/09 at 11:04:24 Correct me if I'm wrong (been one of those days), but does the clutch work "like it should" when you FIRST start up the bike? It's a wet clutch, it wants oil. If you are in gear when you start the bike, won't it pull a bit? I don't know, as I always start mine in neutral. I could run outside and try it, but work is a ROYAL PAIN today. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by youzguyz on 08/11/09 at 11:10:50 I'm not saying the clutch cable doesn't need adjustment, as it probably does. I'm just saying you might get a bit of a pull if you start it in gear no matter HOW the cable is adjusted. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by Serowbot on 08/11/09 at 11:15:58 23352F203D2F23205A0 wrote:
Yup!..... It's the nature of a motorcycle clutch... like that on every bike I ever owned... |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by verslagen1 on 08/11/09 at 11:52:27 5F495E435B4E43582C0 wrote:
Yup!..... It's the nature of a motorcycle clutch... like that on every bike I ever owned...[/quote] Yup 2, I missed that point. Start in neutral, your clutch has dried out and developed stiction or whatever it's called in clutches. Needs a fresh coatin' of oil. Start in neutral wait for it to pump the oil around abit before jamming into gear and making like a bat out of hell with its tail on fire. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by dmike on 08/11/09 at 12:07:23 Verslagen - I'm not at home but will check the 2 lines and the play in the cable when I get there. I had the cable adjusted at the Suzuki shop. I was guessing it is supposed to be like this since the shop said that it was fixed up. The only clutches i've been exposed to in the past were on my cars(I actually melted a clutch together on my WRX, not really proud of it - thank God for warrenties). Thanks for all the responses, I was hoping it was a standard thing and not just my bike. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/11/09 at 13:07:54 Ive had some time to chew on the whole notion of the 3 lengths of rods & the 2 lines. After thinking about the design some & how the actuator arm Not being lined up between those lines would affect the clutch, Ive come to this. Please, tell me what you think. The actuator has a Paddle on it that drives the pin in. If the rod is too long, that paddle is pointed away from the rod somewhat & would drag across the end of the rod & would wind up requiring more effort to pull the clutch, which would tend to over load the actuator & we know they arent the stoutest things in the world now. If its too short, again, the paddle wouldnt be working at an angle that is efficient. I think the goal would be to have the paddle perpendicular to the shaft at or a little after the 1/2 way point of the rods travel. The free play is adjustable at the lever, the rods are to make the clutch lever as easy to pull as possible & to make the load as low as possible for the actuator, which means the shaft thru the case & its bushing & seal will last longer. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by Duane on 08/11/09 at 13:15:26 I have no idea what he's talking about in that last post but I have a feeling once I get my trans cover off it will mean something to me. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by Serowbot on 08/11/09 at 13:20:52 5A6B7F707B1E0 wrote:
Lem'me know.... :-? |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by dmike on 08/11/09 at 13:45:07 3D2B3C21392C213A4E0 wrote:
Lem'me know.... :-?[/quote] me too. I only have 1900 miles, hopefully I don't have to pull that cover off for awhile. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/11/09 at 14:17:35 There is a rod that gets pressed down into the middle of the clutch pack when the clutch lever is pulled. Suzuki offers 3 lengths of rods. There are 2 lines on the clutch cover that the clutch actuator is supposed to "aim into". If its aimed outside the lines one way, then a longer rod would get it lined up, if it is outside the lines the other way, then a shorter rod would be needed. Why does it matter how the actuator is aimed? I am thinking for the reasons I posted. Someone will show up & have a look at that & have a comment or 2, I hope. I hope I get agreement. If I dont, well,, then maybe Ill get clarification. ( Clarification: PC for Set Straight) |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by verslagen1 on 08/11/09 at 14:34:13 dmike, this could be a standard thing that we all have to deal with... But with most things that aren't life or death we ignore them till we break something. I and a few have broke the cam and we're wondering why. Digger ? found the marks on the case and the instructions. As you work more with various people, you'll find some that don't give a dam adjust it to get it out of their shop asap. others that don't know what they are doing. and the very few that know what they are doing and care. No one cares about your bike more than you. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by Digger on 08/21/09 at 21:42:51 Justin, SWMBO's old '92 BMW R100RT also had a tolerance given on the angle of the clutch actuation arm. I think you're on to something regarding the relative geometry of the linkage under the clutch cover. The next time I have mine off, I'll investigate. That won't be for a while, though. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/22/09 at 08:40:08 Thanks, Im just glad someone read it & had the light switch on. I "see" things in my head, like mechanical drawings, sadly, all too often, they wind up being a Rube Goldberg machine. |
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Title: Re: clutch/start up pull Post by Duane on 08/22/09 at 20:56:59 OK, I got my cover back on and I noticed I'm on the top mark. So what does that mean? |
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