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Message started by serenity3743 on 08/06/09 at 05:21:57

Title: not the battery
Post by serenity3743 on 08/06/09 at 05:21:57

Yesterday I went out to crank up Suzi and she groaned one time and then started clicking. I had just had the battery on the charger at 2 amps for about 3 hours a couple weekends ago, but thought I might not have charged it completely as it was just routine while I was working on the carburetor. Drove car to work, got home and charged batt all night at 2 amps until green light on charger said "charging is complete." Got up this AM early, installed battery. Neutral light and headlight were strong, didn't try to crank it at that point. Went in, showered, dressed, came back out, no groan, just clicks. Neutral light looked maybe a little dim, didn't notice the headlight. Drove car to work again.

What should I look at first? The entire electrical system is original, and I have put all but 630 of the 69,000 miles on the bike. I know I probably need to check the starter, voltage regulator, probably look for any stripped wiring. How do I test the starter and voltage regulator? Any help would be appreciated. The weather is too nice to let her just sit in the garage!!! :(

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by Toymaker on 08/06/09 at 05:43:13

How old is the battery? Summer heat can kill a battery just as well as cold can. If it is 2+ years, I'll think about a new one.

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by bill67 on 08/06/09 at 05:50:10

Did you check water in battery,My batteries normal last about 5 years,standard battery.leave charger on 24 hours if its 2 amps.

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/06/09 at 07:04:29

I see its a 2000 model. If its not on battery #3 now, it soon will be.
I'm with Bill, check the water. If low, drop some distilled in it. Just about need a syringe on these little things. If its dead meat, recommend one of the Dry type batteries. The Big Crank is so dependable. Mine starts even if Ive let it sit for months.

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by thumperclone on 08/06/09 at 07:13:28

battery could have bad cell and charger will tell you "full charge"..
BATTERIES PLUS and some auto shops (SEARS?) can test it 4 you.

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/06/09 at 07:25:56

I killed the battery totally flat on the back hoe. It wouldnt stop tyaking over 4 amps on my charger, so I figured it was dead meat. I went to return it to WalMart & they had a battery analyzer they put it on. It sat there for at least 10 minutes, running tests on it. Gave it a clean bill of health. Anyway, WalMart can, I guess if here, they can everywhere. Of course the big parts house chains, Orielly's & PepBoys & such can check a battery out & starters & alternators, if you need that done,

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by serenity3743 on 08/06/09 at 10:14:06

4D5254534E4978487840525E15270 wrote:

Yeah, Bill and Justin, I put distilled water in it with a syringe. I bought the battery June 2008, and it is my 3rd battery. However, now that I think about it,

The first 2 were Yuasa
And this one is "Notsa." :D

So the consensus from the Brain Trust
Is make sure the battery is good fust. :D

(I'm having rhyming compulsions today.)

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by serenity3743 on 08/07/09 at 05:27:11

I checked the bike last night and the neutral light and headlight have definitely gotten dimmer. Which means, I believe, that there is a drag on the battery somewhere even when it's just sitting. Probably a bare wire touching metal somewhere which I will have to track down. Any other thoughts?

I also thought I would experiment last evening, pushed the bike up the street above my house, about 300 yards uphill. A neighbor felt sorry for me and helped me. After I caught my breath I turned on the key, but then absent-mindedly turned it off again, put the bike in third and coasted it. It wouldn't crank, of course, because the key was off. And after a couple of tries I smelled gas so I pretty much flooded the cylinder (petcock on PRI due to bad petcock). That should go in the "Stupid Human Tricks" thread. :-[

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by genejohnson on 08/07/09 at 06:16:46

Starter relays also go bad!

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/07/09 at 09:48:35

A battery can develop an internal loss, so it will be fully charged & go down over a period of hours. You can figure out if there is an external draw by pulling a battery cable off & putting a test light in between the cable & the battery terminal. If it lights, there's a drain. Or, you could stick a Volt/Ohm meter in there & set it on Amps & see how much current is flowing. Zero is the goal.
If you dont have a test light, you can fake it with a small 12 volt lamp & some rednecked up wires to the connectors on the bulb. An automotive plug in bulb with the wires that fold up next to the glass envelope would be pretty easy to do. But a test light will be there for you for years & only costs a few bucks. Even a real cheap meter would be a good thing. They have one at Harbor freight for about 3 dollars. I have one & I like it.

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by serenity3743 on 08/07/09 at 10:23:08

455A5C5B4641704070485A561D2F0 wrote:

Justin, thanks for the advice. That's what I need to get me started. I've been picturing myself tracing every fricking wire looking for bare spots. And I know I still might have to do that, but not before I know whether there's an external draw.

Also, is there any way to test the starter relay?

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/07/09 at 10:29:25

I'd just focus on knowing you have a healthy battery first. Yes, starter relays can go south, but my $$$ is on the battery.

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by serenity3743 on 08/10/09 at 05:06:02

Okay, it IS the battery. I found my engine analyzer tool, took the battery out and charged it to 13 V. Took it off the charger and tested it and it immediately had dropped to around 11.55V. Tested it later and it was at 9.8V (still not hooked to anything) which it has held onto for about 36 hours. Not enough to really kick the motor over, and of course ignition, lights, and cranking make it drop real fast. I bought the d**n thing at NAPA when I was on a trip in Knoxville in June 2008. I think it should have lasted longer than that, so I'm gonna see if I have any recourse. >:(

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by Boule’tard on 08/10/09 at 05:24:45

Hopefully they will give you a pro-rated refund, or at least credit toward a new battery. I used to do that with Wal-Mart batteries, buy a cheap car battery and replace it often, trying to get the lowest cost per year battery. Not worth the trouble.

In addition to Justin's (clever! ;)) test, a quick & dirty way to find out if the battery does poorly under high amperage is to see if the bike will start from a known good battery, just try to jump-start it from your car. No jump-startability = bad starter, solenoid, something like that.

BTW I got yer fuel petcock, vac line & clamps boxed up & ready :D

Title: Re: not the battery
Post by serenity3743 on 08/10/09 at 09:00:19

Thanks, Boule'Tard! I will put you a check in the mail on Wednesday, 13Aug2009.