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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Paint Removal /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1248216079 Message started by EJID on 07/21/09 at 15:41:19 |
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Title: Paint Removal Post by EJID on 07/21/09 at 15:41:19 I'm sure it's been covered on here before, but I'll be darned if I could find it. Since I've got two new fenders that are different colors than my horrendous tank :-[ I need to get busy with updating the paint. I plan to pull both fenders and the tank this weekend and would like to get as much done as possible to remove the old paint & possibly prime and/or paint the tins. 1. What have you guys found to be the quickest, most effective way to remove the old paint? :-/ 2. Is there a step by step guide to get the best possible finish from using rattle cans to come up with a decent/nice finished product? 3. Are there any surprises that I should be on the lookout for? Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice you can give me, and wish me luck. I will be checking this between now and Friday for suggestions. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/21/09 at 17:58:05 I hear brake fluid is just murder on paint. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by verslagen1 on 07/21/09 at 19:08:45 aircraft paint stripper works great. available at wallyworld. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Gary On A Savage on 07/21/09 at 20:07:04 I did rattlecan's on mine using Rustoleum white and clear. Not too bad, but the key is in the prep and finish work, not so much the painting. Pics are here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2005646&id=1451617588&l=b180ef1569 1. Jasco paint stripper and a plastic scrapper (all the hardware stores)... wear protective gloves if you don't want skin burns. 2. Here are a few links I found very useful: http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm http://www.warkshop.com/motopainting.html http://www.soundrider.com/archive/MR101/MR101-painting.htm http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=printpage;topic=36659.0 3. The key is the a clean surface up front and lots of hand rubbing on the end. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by 91 UK SAVAGE on 07/22/09 at 01:54:31 I used paint stripper and a plastic scrapper on mine, and yes wear protective gloves if you don't want skin burns |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/22/09 at 05:18:11 well ventilated area...a big fan No sense in cooking off high quantities of brain cells over a danged paint job. If you are gonna burn some, make it at least be a fun thing. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by AngloSaxon on 07/22/09 at 07:19:55 Don't use Duplicolor products they're crap |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by EJID on 07/22/09 at 12:01:43 So after day 1 it sounds like you guys all prefer a chemical stripping product to get the tins back to bare metal (or as close to it as possible). The only time I've used a chemical stripper is for removing some varnish from furniture and I cussed that stuff all day long. >:( Hopefully this experience will be better. After I get it stripped and cleaned/neutralized use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth out any variations before I shoot it with 2 or 3 coats of primer. I'm thinking I might do a two tone treatment, but I'm not sure of the best way to proceed. I really liked the flat black / red that I saw one of the users on the forum use on his bike (kevinphan). If I do something similar to this, should I do the flat black first or second? With a color combination like that, should I use a clear coat as well? :-? Again, thanks for all your advice in advance. ;D |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by John_D on 07/22/09 at 13:42:19 Actually, if the paint that's on them now is in good shape you probably wouldn't have to take them back to bare metal, just scuff them up with some fine grit sand paper, smoothing them down in the process. A primer of some kind over the old base coats would help, so you wouldn't need as many coats of the new color to keep the old from showing through. As far as what order to paint the two-tone scheme in, I would paint the smaller portion first (inset, flames, etc.) then mask that off and paint the main body of the tank. It should require much less time spent masking things off. Good luck, we're all waiting for pics of the results when it's done! ;) |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by bill67 on 07/22/09 at 13:51:23 I don't think they would need stripping,My brother Stripped a 1973 Suzuki GT550 years ago.Stock tank, it had about 10 coats of paint on it every one a differenced color,The Japs must of did that for a reason,I guess to get a real good smooth finish. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by EJID on 07/22/09 at 13:51:37 The paint on the bike is a total loss, they previous owner sprayed it with a fake fleck stone stuff that has lots of texture, so I'm gonna have to at least get below that layer and probably should take it back to bare metal. Current pic of the tank: http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2009/07/22/bikepics-1733922-full.jpg I will try to document my progress and steps that I decide to take in order to help anyone else. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Rocco on 07/22/09 at 14:05:27 be careful, when u get the tank down 2 bare metal, u may like it that way!! ahahahaaa |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by EJID on 07/22/09 at 14:08:35 19242828244B0 wrote:
Didn't you end up spraying yours all your favorite color, flat black? ;D |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Gary On A Savage on 07/22/09 at 20:04:37 Usually if it's stock paint you can just sand and paint over it. But it definitely sounds like you would want to go to bare metal if the PO used a textured paint. Trust me, chemical stripper is much easier than trying to sandpapering that down to bare metal (voice of experience). But the stripper won't get it all and you'll have to sandpaper the remaining patches. Watch out for the stripper, it is acid you know. And make sure you get it good and clean before laying any paint so it adhers good. Question...have you considered having it sandblasted? Don't know the cost or viability of it, but any others that may have experience with it might want to chime in. |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by John_D on 07/22/09 at 20:38:30 I would think blasting would work good on that stuff, but if you use actual sand, and not soda blasting or similar, be careful. If you hold on one spot too long it can actually build enough heat to warp larger flat areas. That's why soda or other medias are usually recommended for body panels. Just my $.02. :D |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Rocco on 07/23/09 at 05:21:01 5F50535E1A0 wrote:
Didn't you end up spraying yours all your favorite color, flat black? ;D[/quote] NO WAY!! the tank is bare metal while everything else is flat black!! gotta be a little different! |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Gary On A Savage on 07/23/09 at 12:35:35 59646868640B0 wrote:
Didn't you end up spraying yours all your favorite color, flat black? ;D[/quote] NO WAY!! the tank is bare metal while everything else is flat black!! gotta be a little different! [/quote] Don't you get blinded by the sun? |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Rocco on 07/23/09 at 12:44:39 to be honest, the headlight is way shinier then the tank. the handlebars are killer as well! i thought the tank was gonna be a problem reflection wise....nope...and i live in florida, if there's a place to have sun problems, it's here!! |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by EJID on 07/23/09 at 12:49:26 So, here's the supplies that I have gathered so far for my repaint. Any suggestions on changes that should be made? I also have some 150 grit paper not shown in the picture cause the wife was using it on another project (Hope there's some left for me). I wanted to get the dark blue in Rust-Oleum as well, but they didn't have any other than a bright blue :( (Not what I wanted), so I will see how this Valspar works. http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2009/07/23/bikepics-1734629-full.jpg |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by EJID on 07/24/09 at 09:57:05 Any last minute suggestions before I get started? The replacement front & rear fenders are both factory paint and in good condition, so I am planning on just sanding them with some 150 or 220 and cleaning them before I prime/paint. I will have to remove the tank and strip it completely, but hopefully I can get it done today/tomorrow so I can at least get it primed this weekend ;D Wish me luck, I will post pictures of my progress... 8-) |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Dynobob on 07/25/09 at 12:25:43 Don't use course sandpaper. 360 grit should smooth things out after the paint stripper. I use fine steel wool (or course if needed) to remove the paint stripper/old paint. Get some "Metal Prep" from an automotive paint place and put it on the bare tank following the directions on the bottle. It's phosphoric acid and will keep the tank from rusting. Use Scotchbrite to apply the metal prep. If you have to get it Monday, just spay a thin coat of primer on the tank now. It will come off easily with lacquer thinner. Speaking of lacquer thinner, wipe the bare tank down well with lacquer thinner prior to priming. Sand the primer with 400 grit before adding more primer or painting. Sandblasting is not good for sheetmetal. Final suggestion - coat your paint job with clear engine paint. If you don't , modern gas with ethanol will eat the paint. I found that out the hard way :'( |
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Title: Re: Paint Removal Post by Dynobob on 07/25/09 at 22:22:30 Here's another tip regarding paints...you can spray enamel over lacquer...but you can't spray lacquer on top of enamel. The primer you bought should be lacquer and your color is probably enamel. If you put clear on top of the color, make sure it's not lacquer. |
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