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Message started by verslagen1 on 07/11/09 at 20:42:46

Title: steering stem bearing removal
Post by verslagen1 on 07/11/09 at 20:42:46

Any one take the bearing races out of the head tube?

Clymer says special tool, any work around?

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by verslagen1 on 07/13/09 at 06:59:38

Pulled the bearings out of the head tube, repacked them, polished the races, some corrosion.

Works great now.  The wobbly, hard to ride a straight line is gone.

Still looking for a method to pull the races out.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by Yonuh Adisi on 07/13/09 at 12:57:50

What I did was found something that would fit into the neck at an angle enough to catch the lip of the races from the inside and tapped them out with a hammer. I probably didn't explain it very well.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by verslagen1 on 07/13/09 at 12:57:57

Found a good article at...

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/service_steering_head_bearings/index.html

Hope y'all give a read.

All in all, was surprised how open to the elements the bearings are.

The grease in my bearing was minimal and dry.
Corrosion is evident and as soon as I can figure out how to pull the races w/o damage I'll swap them out.

But after clean and packing they are smooth.

I'll have to see if I can design a insiteu repacking tool.

It was fairly easy to get at the bearings, take the handlebars off, fork caps, and the stem nut and the top tree comes off with a tap or two.  Remove the adjustment nut.  Then raise the bike and the forks and all come off.  Be sure to have an extra pair of hands.  I disconnected the wires from the bikes and left the bars dangle from the fork, lent the whole thing against the bench and kicked a brick against the wheel so it wouldn't roll away.  Left the bearing on the stem and cleaned and packed it there.  No sense removing it till I had a tool to remove the race.  packed it the ol' fashioned way and put it back together.

;D

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by PTRider on 07/13/09 at 21:01:09

Can you tap it out with a hammer and a brass rod?

Will anything fit into the back side of the race so you can use a threaded rod and nut and pull it out?  You'd need to invent some sort of strongback that allows the race to pull up out of the steering head.

Weld a bead around the bearing face on the outer race.  When the weld cools it'll shrink the race and it'll come out easily.

When it's time to put the new races in, put them into your freezer for a couple of hours.  They'll contract in the cold and go in more easily.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by verslagen1 on 07/13/09 at 22:27:31

The race is hard to get to.
I did find a tool that expands to engage the race.  
Then you pound it out with a punch.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/14/09 at 00:54:08

I have a hard steel rod I swiped out of a lift gate support cylinder & hammered a slight bend into & shaped it up on a grinder, so it has a sharp "toe" poking out. I use that to catch those near blind internal races.
I also have a couple of slide hammers & some handy attachments that will sometimes come in handy on such problems, but if I was a rich boy, Id get an attachment that expands & grabs in 4 places. I could make one, but the time would be more valuable than the tool.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by Charon on 07/14/09 at 16:06:44

Many years ago I read an article about installing a zerk into the steering head. Idea was to drill into the side of the steering head at a convenient spot, tap the hole for a zerk, then just pack the head with grease until grease oozed out at both ends. The article claimed it could be done without disassembly. One uses a suitable drill with a drill stop so as to avoid drilling too deep (into the moving part). Drill slowly making sure the drill is well greased to capture drill shavings. The tap is also heavily greased, for the same reason. If all goes well no metal shavings get inside the steering head. Personally, I think if the fork assembly was already removed from the steering head it would be an excellent time to install a zerk.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by PTRider on 07/14/09 at 17:45:40


Quote:
Drill slowly making sure the drill is well greased to capture drill shavings.

Or magnetize* the drill bit.  Zerk grease fittings are available in press-in design that don't require threading.

*Wrap several turns of heavy insulated wire around the drill bit and touch the ends of the wire to battery terminals.  Or stroke the drill bit several times on a strong magnet.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by verslagen1 on 07/14/09 at 19:49:00


5C777E6D70711F0 wrote:
Many years ago I read an article about installing a zerk into the steering head...


You do that with this bike and you'll have grease squirting out the bottom of the stem.  It's hollow and cut into for the steering lock.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by Digger on 07/16/09 at 21:15:45


160512130C0107050E51600 wrote:
Any one take the bearing races out of the head tube?

Clymer says special tool, any work around?


Ver,

Having done this job on other bikes, I picked up a set of bearing race punches.

If you have a bunch of extra $$$ sitting around from Verslavy sales:

MAC Tools Bearing Race Punch Set (http://www.mactools.com/Product/tabid/120/productid/325477/variantid/316236/Default.aspx)

I don't have many bucks, so I bought this set (do a search in the catalog for 62015):

Mayhew Tools Bearing Race Punch Set (http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pelland/mayhewtools08/)

It looks suspiciously like the the MAC Tools set.

If you buy it here, you'll save almost 50% over the MAC set:

Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/4-pc-Bearing-Race-Punch-Set/dp/B0027JITDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1247803672&sr=1-1)

Like I said, I have the Mayhew set.  I've not used any of the punches yet, but the quality seems fine.

IHTH!

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by verslagen1 on 07/17/09 at 00:35:09

I'm thinking something like this...
http://www.parktool.com/images/products/productimages/det_RT-2_side_2007327_23098.jpg

But I like this tool...
http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/pitposse_2061_23426137

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by Jsud04 on 08/19/14 at 15:42:18

Old thread revival......what did you use to torque the adjuster nut, or did you just go to smooth action with no play? The book calls for 29 to 32 ftlbs and I think that's realllllll tight.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by HondaLavis on 08/19/14 at 19:53:45

You have read the next couple of steps.  29-32 ft lbs is an INITIAL SEATING.

(From the Clymer's)
6.  Install the steering stem adjust nut and tighten it to the initial torque specification listed in Table 1.
7.  Turn the steering stem from lock-to-lock 5-6 times to seat the bearings.
8.  LOOSEN the steering stem nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
NOTE: If during step 6 and 8 the adjust nut will not tighten or loosen, remove the nut and inspect both the nut and steering stem threads for dirt and/or burrs.  Clean both parts with a tap and die if necessary, then repeat steps 6-8.
9.  Install the upper fork bridge, washer, and steering stem cap nut only finger tight at this time.
10.  Move the steering stem back and forth from side-to-side.   The steering stem should move freely from side-to-side with no looseness or stiffness.  If necessary, repeat step 6 and step 8 and readjust the steering stem adjust nut.


You are right in that 29-32 ftlbs is way too tight as a final torque.  You have to read through the task.

I did head bearings on my Honda a while ago.  I don't remember what exact tool it was, but there was some puller that I hooked up to a slide hammer and it removed everything like a charm.  It was a free tool rental from autozone, so it can't be too uncommon.

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by Jsud04 on 08/20/14 at 03:13:11

Yea....face palm...but how about an improvised tool for this torquing?

Title: Re: steering stem bearing removal
Post by Dave on 08/20/14 at 03:44:46


1B2224353423226165510 wrote:
Yea....face palm...but how about an improvised tool for this torquing?


If you have not taken the races out, and only had the forks off....this initial torquing is not really necessary.  I believe the purpose is to make sure the races are pulled into place squarely with the bearings.

Don't worry about this issue too much.  Just tighten the nut really snug, wiggle the forks a bit, then back the nut off until you get a nice smooth action of the forks.  Don't make it so loose that you get any movement front/back if you grab the bottom of the forks and pull/push on them.

Dave

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