|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> .... Brake Fluid Help /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1247359656 Message started by Gideon1986 on 07/11/09 at 17:47:35 |
|
Title: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Gideon1986 on 07/11/09 at 17:47:35 Hey guys! What kind of brake fluid do we use for the S40? How do we know we need to add? Thanks.... |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Rockin_John on 07/11/09 at 23:42:53 You sound like a man badly in need of a Clymer's maintenance manual, or Suzuki service manual... The down and dirty: 1. Turn your handlebars until the front brake master cylinder on the right side of your handlebars is LEVEL. (You may have to loosen the bracket which attaches the master cylinder to the bars to get it really level.) 2. Now look at the fluid level in the reservoir through the little sight glass on the front side. If the level is low, remove the top of the reservoir and add just enough DOT type 3 or 4 brake fluid to bring it up to the "full" mark on the outside by the sight glass. 3. Put the top back on the reservoir, reposition the brake lever/reservoir to a comfortable riding position and tighten it down. Good to go! ;) |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by voldigicam on 07/12/09 at 02:42:03 If your fluid is old, changing is easy. CLEAN is important, very important. I like using a little brake bleeder kit from any auto parts store. Can pick up a small mirror on a telescoping stick, too, one of the pocket clip ones, for checking oil & brake while straddling the bike level. Anyway, bleeding covered in the manual, which is online somewhere. I searched and found it. Don't recall where. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/12/09 at 05:23:22 If the fluid level is low & you dont have a leak, you may need pads. If the reservoir is allowed to lose prime, getting it back can be a bit of a hassle, tho there are numerous ways to get it pumping again. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by ls650v on 07/12/09 at 06:06:03 I think the owners manual says to use DOT 4 fluid, not DOT 3. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Charon on 07/12/09 at 06:51:41 At least on my '07, the brake fluid reservoir cover has an engraved label telling you what sort of fluid to use. It says DOT 4. The information isn't too hard to find - it is right on top. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Rockin_John on 07/12/09 at 07:09:35 6E7134373274020 wrote:
Note: Once again, Clymer's manual varies from other information. They say use DOT 3 or 4. If Suzuki says 4 I absolutely pass to following their recommendation over Clymer's. Some of these seemingly trivial little things can actually be important! |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by verslagen1 on 07/12/09 at 08:35:33 Copied from http://www.tccoa.com/brake-fluid/ DOT3 DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles. Advantages: DOT3 fluid is inexpensive, and available at most gas stations, department stores, and any auto parts store. Disadvantages: DOT3 fluid eats paint! DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use. Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders. DOT4 DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in some late model cars. Advantages: DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) gas stations or department stores. DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid. DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications where the brake systems are expected to get hot. Disadvantages: DOT4 fluid eats paint! Small leaks around the master cylinder will eventually dissolve away the paint on your bodywork in the general vicinity of the leak, and then give rust a chance to attack the body of your car! DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid. Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs some water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders. DOT5 DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid. Advantages: DOT5 doesn't eat paint. DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem. DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.) Disadvantages: DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5.1. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system. Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent formulations. Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics. Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds. DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4. DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores. DOT5.1 DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoid a lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid. As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT4 fluids, rather than traditional DOT5 brake fluids. Advantages: DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C). DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations. Disadvantages: DOT5.1 fluids (and Spectro's Supreme DOT4) are non-silicone fluids and will absorb water. DOT5.1 fluids, like DOT3 & DOT4 will eat paint. DOT 5.1 fluids are difficult to find for sale, typically at very few auto parts stores, mostly limited to "speed shops." DOT 5.1 will be more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4, and more difficult to find. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by verslagen1 on 07/12/09 at 08:52:38 copied from http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml Why the heck do we use brake fluids that absorb water in the first place? Believe it or not, one of a brake fluid’s most vital characteristics is its ability to absorb water. Yes, you read that correctly – brake fluids absorb water by design and that is really a good thing. What? Whether we like it or not, water is everywhere and finds its way into everything. That’s just the nature of the beast. Even our brand-new sealed brake system will eventually absorb water given enough time. The magic of diffusion allows moisture in the air to permeate microscopic pores in the rubber brake hoses, the nylon master cylinder reservoir, and the various rubber seals in the hydraulic system. Sadly, there is nothing we can do about it and if left unchecked the water would sit in our brake system and rot it away from the inside out. Hence the need for brake fluid to absorb this unwanted house guest. Because brake fluid absorbs water into solution, the local concentration levels are typically low enough that corrosion is slowed dramatically. As an added benefit, when exposed to low temperatures, the solution state prevents the water from pooling and freezing on its own. While water in brake fluid will certainly increase the solution viscosity at low temperatures, this is much more desirable than having little chunks of ice plugging up the system! So, the next time you are bleeding your brakes to remove the water-contaminated fluid, don’t curse at the automotive gods too loudly. After all, the fluid was only doing its job. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by verslagen1 on 07/12/09 at 09:11:43 DOT 4 is listed in the '02 owners manual DOT 4 is listed on the '02 master cylinder cap '86-'94 Clymer lists DOT 3 or 4 SSM circa '86 lists DOT 3 or 4 DOT 4 is slightly better fluid, but I wouldn't go nuts over it. Use of DOT 3 is acceptable with a higher maintenance level. Brake fluid is cheap and easy to replace, do it yearly. How easy? Level out the master cyl as mentioned before take cap off put a tube on the brake bleeder nipple and place it in the bottom of a 6oz jar open bleeder fluid will flow by itself when the fluid gets about 1/3 high, refill and maintain. when the 6oz jar is filled you're done close bleeder refill master to fill line and cap repeat next year and every time you change pads. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Rockin_John on 07/12/09 at 10:25:20 I was pretty sure that within the last couple of years I'd read somewhere that DOT 3 was still fit to use in almost all brake systems. Just went out to the garage and checked: The big old half gallon sized bottle of DOT 3 I bought back a couple of years ago after reading that says right on it: For use in ABS, Disc and Drum brake systems. I've been adding to all my car, truck systems from that bottle, and have bled all three bike's front brakes from it. No problems with either my one old 87 rubber brake hose, or the stainless braided lines on both of the 99s. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by PTRider on 07/12/09 at 12:36:26 Coupl'a points about brake fluid:
Don't forget to change the brake fluid in the family fleet, cars and trucks, periodically. Dumping the moisture contaminated fluid will extend the life of the calipers. In the heat of emergency braking the moisture will flash to steam, the brake pedal or lever goes all the way down, and the vehicle does not stop. If the vehicle is stopped, the telltale is that the brakes work normally after things cool, but the fluid absolutely must be changed. I know of two fatality wrecks locally caused by overheated brake fluid, and have a friend who got his truck and horse trailer stopped using the parking brake and downshifting without a wreck with exactly these symptoms. By the way, the heat of extended emergency braking, even if the rig stops OK, can cause changes to the brake fluid, and the fluid must be changed as well as the pads or shoes checked for glazing from overheating. Convince drivers you know that the safe way to retard their speed on long downgrades is by downshifting so the rig almost holds the speed they feel is safe, and then they just use intermittent moderate braking for precise speed control. Motorcycles are somewhat different due to rear tire traction issues, but bikes, especially when heavily laden, still need to avoid overheated brakes on long downgrades. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by bill67 on 07/12/09 at 13:30:46 In almost 40 years and many miles of riding I've never had to add and have never changed brake fluid,And for some reason the brakes always worked,One bike was 25 years old rode once a year 5 miles.Never changed in a car either. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by verslagen1 on 07/12/09 at 16:01:50 Dot 3 is fit for all... But if I were a heavy user I'd want Dot 4+ Anybody turn their disk blue lately? Yes you mr. dragon rider, 2up no less. You better have the gooood stuff. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by voldigicam on 07/12/09 at 16:21:27 7A7174742E2F180 wrote:
I recall when I drove a wrecker. Every now and then on a long descent some car would just float off the edge. No skid marks, usually something heavy. I got in the habit of checking the brakes. They always worked if weren't broken. But the fluid was always old. I thought the brakes might have vapor locked. Finally one of the fellers survived. The brakes had indeed locked after they got hot. Think I'll change my fluid regularly. I do on my cars and truck, every 2 years. Cheap safety. I change the flexy brake lines, too, when they get a bit old, for metal braided ones. I'll do that on my LS650 if have even a hint of a suspicion that it might be useful. I just changed the fluid for fresh DOT4. I'm sure the fluid was original with 10,000 miles on it. Just a few little bubbles during bleeding. The difference is remarkable. Much better. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by SV og LS on 07/13/09 at 01:23:38 302334352A2721232877460 wrote:
That must've been a dragging brake. If the brakes are OK even racetrack abuse won't discolor discs. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Digger on 07/15/09 at 21:32:25 253A3C3B2621102010283A367D4F0 wrote:
Yep. And if you don't need pads yet, I'd think twice about topping off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid. If you do that, you'll need to take it back out if you put new brake pads in later. If you don't take it back out, you'll most likely have a mess on your hands. DAMHIK! |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Digger on 07/15/09 at 21:34:45 242F2A2A7071460 wrote:
Bill, You're obviously living right! I've had the misfortune of having to replace two different slave cylinders on two different vehicles because I didn't change the brake fluid often enough. Most of us won't get away with that for long! ;) |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by Charon on 07/18/09 at 07:10:43 I had to replace the clutch slave cylinder on a LeSharo, too. Apparently water got into the slave cylinder and corroded a spot in the wall. I had bled the thing a couple of times, too, which amounts to flushing the fluid. Trouble is, the bleeder is at the top of the cylinder, so as to let out air bubbles. But the water was at the bottom, being apparently heavier than the fluid. Since I bought the unit used, I have no way of knowing whether the water was introduced as a contaminant or whether the brake fluid had gradually absorbed the water from the air. I never had brake problems, but then I traded the thing off right after I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. I indirectly heard its new owner had brake problems. By the way, the clutch and brake systems on that unit shared a common fluid reservoir. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by bill67 on 07/18/09 at 07:37:51 For 2 years if my Suzuki 1500 LC sit for a week I would have to pump up the brake a couple pumps then it was good,This year I don't have to pump it up,I guess the air finally out,I never did anything to it. |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by ero4444 on 08/23/09 at 10:15:11 Hey I appreciated this thread very much. It was easy to change fluid with this guidance - DOT4 is on the resevoir cap. Mine was light-beer color - oh crap! It's clear now but after 200 miles of riding I think the level is down about 3/16"(5mm) from where I filled it - double crap! OK I'm stupid: the brake fluid sightglass level marking is NOT obvious to me - where the heck is the bottom of the miniscus curve of the air bubble supposed to be!? The marking is BENT! The horizontal part of the marking is EVEN with the top of the glass. How do you read this thing - does it point to the curving edge of the bubble or what? |
|
Title: Re: .... Brake Fluid Help Post by PTRider on 08/23/09 at 10:50:48 6E6560603A3B0C0 wrote:
Dumping old brake fluid that has absorbed moisture from the air will add to the life of brake calipers and wheel cylinders. A friend was towing his horse trailer down Mt. Adams a couple of years ago. While doing heavy braking his brake pedal went to the floor. He managed to get the rig stopped using his parking brake and downshifting. After he'd changed his shorts and taken several deep breaths, his braking was OK. His mechanic said that this brake action was exactly what happens with old brake fluid full of moisture that flashes to steam from the heat of heavy braking, then cools and brakes OK later. I don't know why he didn't downshift early before his brakes heated, nor why his trailer brakes didn't help more, nor why his mechanic didn't flush the brake fluid as a routine. Two nearby fatal wrecks...one was a motorhome coming down a steep mountain road with midwesterner flatlanders driving (didn't downshift early and sufficiently to relieve the brakes of the total job of speed retardation). The driver and another died. Other family members told of the driver shouting that the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor and the rig didn't slow. Another was down a steep hill in a state park where a child bystander died. The State Patrol report reason for the wreck was of overheated brake fluid, not glazed linings. Flush that brake fluid regularly. The right way to come down a long downgrade, especially when heavy, is to downshift to a gear that almost holds the rig to the speed you feel is safe, then brake moderately hard to get below your safe max speed, get off the brakes and let them cool, brake again, cool them again, etc. I know, a brake job is cheaper than a transmission job...unless you crash. Ero, Don't sweat the level. As long as there is fluid in sight, you're good. The fluid level drops normally as the pads wear, and is pushed back up when you push the piston in to renew the pads. As long as you don't see a puddle of fluid on the floor or ground where you park, and the brake action is firm, not spongy, no worries. |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |