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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> F$#K ! /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1244321161 Message started by BurnPgh on 06/06/09 at 13:46:01 |
Title: F$#K ! Post by BurnPgh on 06/06/09 at 13:46:01 One of the screws on my master cylinder is mauled to hell. Tips or tricks on getting the SOB out before i just whale the whole thing off the handlebars with a hammer and have to buy a new one. SUPER PISSED |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by Flemming from Denmark on 06/06/09 at 13:59:55 drill the head away with a 4 or 5 mm drill (mesure one of the other screws) - remove the cap - drown the piece in wd40 over nigth - and find a good tool to hold around the little tap and turn it out. (If it's one of the screws on the fluid cap :)) |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by Jay on 06/06/09 at 14:58:02 Your situation may be too far gone for this; but there used ot be a product called (I think) "Screw Medic". An online search turns up nothing at the moment. It was a gritty paste that penetrated into the reccesses of the screws head and provided enough traction for the screwdriver to back it out. If the product is no longer made, perhaps a similar paste could be home made with similar effect? I wish you well, Sir. |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by rl153 on 06/06/09 at 16:16:44 easy out |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by Phelonius on 06/06/09 at 16:20:12 21283B2423287C7F74744D0 wrote:
easy outs are incorrectly named. Phelonius |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by SimonTuffGuy on 06/06/09 at 17:48:34 Carefully drill the head off. You should be able to get the cover off and then have a little bit of bolt left to get it out. |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/09 at 18:13:19 First, take a pin punch & LIGHT hammer, if you have to use a punch for a hammer, do so. Work the metal back into position as well as possible. Set a screwdriver into it & SMACK the snot out of it. Not like trying to break cement, but a Quick Slap. Apply a penetrating oil & let soak. Repeat the Smack. Set the impact driver ( you do have one, right?) firmly in the slot & give it a smack. Or, put a slot in it. Or drill the head off. Maybe when everything else is off you can get hold of the dutchman. |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by Phelonius on 06/07/09 at 18:24:21 Never force anything. just get a bigger hammer. phelonius |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by matt on 06/08/09 at 10:48:10 7A424F464544435F592A0 wrote:
...and if that doesnt work pull out the sledge. Good luck! |
Title: Re: F$#K ! Post by PTRider on 06/08/09 at 13:05:56 It sounds like a job for the mechanical repair contractor I used to see on the jobs I was working on...BF & I...brute force & ignorance...motto: No job too small; no hammer too big. Seriously, this is a tough job. As said, you might be able to very carefully drill the head off the screw. Soak the screw threads in a good penetrating oil, maybe Kroil or B'laster PB, and don't waste your time with WD40*. After that Vicegrips might get the rest of the screw out. With the brake fluid removed, heating the body of the unit might help...don't use a flame that will melt the aluminum. Or, heat then cold shock with ice. Anything to break loose the crud holding the screw in. I had an Easy-Out work once...once in 35 years. In the future, be real picky about the tool used on the screws and bolts. It might be work buying a set of JIS screwdrivers instead of Phillips, use only 6-point sockets and box end wrenches, and be sure any Allen wrench is in good condition...grind off the end if it's worn. *WD40 is, as the name implies, the 40th recipe for a water displacing product. It displaces water well. It is poor for lubrication, penetration, and rust prevention. |
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