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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> air filter /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1244166453 Message started by rl153 on 06/04/09 at 18:47:33 |
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Title: air filter Post by rl153 on 06/04/09 at 18:47:33 can you clean a stock air filter if it has oil on it or do you have to replace it? |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by bill67 on 06/04/09 at 19:25:23 I think you should replace it I think its kind of a paper. |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by diamond jim on 06/04/09 at 19:30:37 404B4E4E1415220 wrote:
You hittin the ol' whiskey tonight? Your posts are always coherent but that one was a little confusing. Or maybe I hit it a little too much! |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by odvelasc on 06/04/09 at 20:14:29 4C47424218192E0 wrote:
Hey! Genoa City. How are the Newman's doing? |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by odvelasc on 06/04/09 at 20:16:33 7A777F7371707A7477731E0 wrote:
You hittin the ol' whiskey tonight? Your posts are always coherent but that one was a little confusing. Or maybe I hit it a little too much![/quote] Jack is one mad attack their Jim. Or are you hanging out with ol' Jim Beam? It says replace lol. I know he probably modified his post. Buuuut you still look crazy lol ;D |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by Oldfeller on 06/05/09 at 05:21:58 You can brush out a stock Suzuki air filter with a soft nylon bristle paintbrush to get off any loose dust the soft ended bristles can reach. You can blow it out with a high pressure air hose carefully directing the air opposite to the normal air flow pattern in the air box. You want to blow the dust bits BACK OUT of the paper fiber intersections, not further into the filter thus ruining it completely. You can't really wash the paper filter out with soap and water as they are of a stiff paper construction and the paper fibers swell up considerably when wetted thus causing the element to become too restrictive when it dries back out. ======== If you find yourself looking at a oil soaked ruined stock paper filter, don't dispair. Jedi science found a way to replace the stock paper filter element with a washable polyester fiber element using a system similar to (but a whole lot cheaper at $4 total cost) than a $50 K&N drop in place oiled element filter. NO REJETTING IS REQUIRED, retuning of the brass air screw is needed though. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1183640744 ======== There are other ideas on the list for air-flow performance enhancement that involve the filter side of the equation. So if your filter is shot and you don't want to spring for another stock filter you can look at some of these ideas. NOTE THAT WITH SOME CONE CONVERSIONS RE-JETTING IS SOMETIMES REQUIRED. Tuning of the brass air screw is required as well. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;num=1183926901 ========= Folks have also been cutting up and gluing automotive air filters to get to the filter paper and putting it into the stock metal frame. This sometimes seems like a lot of work, but they like the results and that is what counts. These will have to be changed at the same rate as an automotive air filter would need to be changed. Brass air screw tuning may be needed, but rejetting would likely not be required. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1238155669/5#5 ========== If you are after pure performance you need to read through the following discussion threads to review the ideas put forth by Diamond Jim. He has evolved the idea of the pure performance air filter system through several designs which attacked laminar air flow characteristics and intake turbulence in order to cram as much air as possible into a heavily modified intake track. I suspect rejetting would be required for some of these configurations as Jim's ideas move you far away from stockish intake restriction/flows into the realms of very low restriction and high laminar flow speeds. You will likely need to rejet your stock CV Suzuki carb to take advantage of these high flow systems. Brass air screw tuning is likely required as well. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1243199945/38#38 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1237731838/25#25 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1243199945/0#0 |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by Jay on 06/05/09 at 06:37:20 Several good tips on air filter alternatives on this forum. Pick the one that you like and go for it. I've got a couple thousand miles on the Fram #CA7421, mentioned in Oldfeller's post (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1238155669/5#5). After two oil changes, the used oil looks no worse than usual, with no ugly bits in the oil to suggest gross contamination getting past the filter. Inspection of the air box shows no dirt getting past the filter either. I've left the snorkle and airbox door in place, with no noticable changes in performance. |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by PTRider on 06/05/09 at 07:01:44 545D4E51565D090A0101380 wrote:
That filter can't be cleaned...throw it out. Consider a $15 HiFloFiltro (http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=1289) filter from a non-Suzuki shop. |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by Gort on 06/05/09 at 09:24:36 Besides other contaminants, air filters also trap petroleum based contaminants coming from automobile exhaust and industrial pollution. Petroleum contaminants are 'sticky' and cannot be removed without washing the filter with the appropriate solution. Paper filters will not withstand such a washing. Here is a link to extensive filter testing, which demonstrates that paper filters are superior to any other type, when it comes to stopping contaminants from entering your intake system: http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm |
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Title: Re: air filter Post by rl153 on 06/05/09 at 13:13:27 Thanks for alot of useful info .When I looked in my airbox today ,everything looked ok. False alarm . |
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