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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> proper left hand nut torque
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Message started by RadRacer on 05/09/09 at 11:09:37

Title: proper left hand nut torque
Post by RadRacer on 05/09/09 at 11:09:37

Is the book correct on this 101-115 ft/lbs on the left hand flywheel nut the reason i ask is cause cam sprocket shattered while trying to get it there and was only at 60+ ft/lbs when it shattered......i just got my 3rd sprocket and want to get back riding soon so please help lol am i missing something? ive checked and rechecked all gear and cam chain alignments im stumped

Title: Re: proper left hand nut torque
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/10/09 at 08:30:28

Which book? Clymers or Suzi? Compare, call a few shops, I have no clue, but thats th way Id go at it if I had that question. Good luck,.

Title: Re: proper left hand nut torque
Post by marshall13 on 05/10/09 at 11:21:19

by the size of the nut, the torque spec is about right(actually very conservative)... are you sure your torque wrench isnt in need of calibration? got your hardware stacked correctly on the shaft? any burrs or such on splines? a 1 ton compressive load shouldnt even phase a steel gear that's mounted correctly....

Title: Re: proper left hand nut torque
Post by aliassmith on 05/10/09 at 14:10:45

If you are talking about the left hand thread on the nut on the starboard side of the crankshaft, the one that holds the gear that drives the clutch and cam chain, I do not understand what shattered the cam sprocket.
Unless there was a piece of debris behind it when you torqued it.

aliassmith

Title: Re: proper left hand nut torque
Post by marshall13 on 05/10/09 at 17:00:34

can you post a decent pic of the remains? preferably both sides, and edge shots of the break? about the only reasonable explanation (assuming all parts were installed correctly) is the gear was defective... if the steel was burnt during the tempering process,or if it was hardened but never drawn(glass hard thoughout), it could conceivably shatter under torquing.... if the shaft hole was improperly machined, torquing could split or crack the gear.... i guess if you immobilized the shaft by using one of the gear teeth to lock it, you could maybe have gotten it to "cant" on the shaft while torquing....