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Message started by genejohnson on 05/02/09 at 09:21:06

Title: Electrical Problems
Post by genejohnson on 05/02/09 at 09:21:06

Well, looks like I have some work ahead of me! The PO replaced he original ignition switch with a toggle switch. When you turn the switch on, only the lights will work. I tested the starter and it is working so the problem must be in the wiring somewhere.
BikeBandit wants about $50 for a new switch. Has anyone substituted an automotive switch with somewhere near same type connections?
The problem could be as simple as a fuse or it could be wired incorrectly. I am just dreading going headfirst into the electrical system. Any suggestions? Gene

Title: Re: Electrical Problems
Post by Gort on 05/02/09 at 10:12:57

Considering the work you will have to do to identify the color coded wires to see where they go, (assuming you have a wiring diagram), and the time you will spend fabricating a bracket to secure an automobile ignition switch to your bike, $50.00 for a drop in stock switch seems an awful lot easier.

Title: Re: Electrical Problems
Post by genejohnson on 05/02/09 at 11:13:12

Apparently I'm going to have to trace wires anyway! Fabricating a small bracket and using an aftermarket switch is going to be a lot less than buyin the stock switch. My time costs me nothing, I'm retired. Gene

Title: Re: Electrical Problems
Post by speedingman on 05/02/09 at 11:42:08

What is the concern that you are having, do you want a key type switch, the bike wont run or the bike will start but not stay running

Title: Re: Electrical Problems
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/02/09 at 14:14:24

A switch on the decomp timer to the hot wire that runs next to it will fire the starter. Even a microswitch will handle the current. If the switch he installed puts fire to the ignition, youll be running.

Title: Re: Electrical Problems
Post by genejohnson on 05/02/09 at 14:17:04

The bike will not run! With the toggle switch the PO installed, the lights and horn works but not the ignition. I haven't looked to see how he has it connected Yet. I have the manual and can figure it out but a switch required to connect it per the manual schematic is a bit hard to find. The type doesn't matter as long as it will get the job done. Gene

Title: Re: Electrical Problems
Post by T Mack 1 on 05/02/09 at 14:40:44

The factory Ign switch has power coming in, then two switched powers coming out. One to the rest of the bike (ign included) and one to the rear running light.

The factory switch has three postions, Off, On and Park. The park postion just sends power to the rear light.

A toggle switch would work fine , you just wouldn't have an option for a Park light.

So, if you have lights, then most likley a wire fell to the ign off somewhere. Recheck all the connections.

I myself like the idea of a key. Keeps honest people honest.

But, my advice is to get the bike runnig first, then spend the money.

Title: Re: Electrical Problems
Post by marshall13 on 05/03/09 at 10:46:18

ok, using 04 wiring diagram.... 4 wires into ign switch... red (batt +), orange (switched ign), grey (goes to switched orange circuit ofr power), and brown (lights hot side).... in P position, continuity is red to brown (what you have now, toggle on bat+ to lights hot lead).... in run, continuity is red-orange (bat + to ign), and grey to brown (ign hot to lights).... so, if you want to keep the toggle, connect the orange wire to same terminal as the brown... gives hot to lights and ign... if using an on-off key switch, same scheme.... if using 3 position key switch, red to bat, orange to ign, brown to accesory.... that'll give "off, no juice to nada", "run, juice to ign and acc (lights and ign work)", and acc "juice to lights only".... that all assumes you have the harness extension from the main harness to the original ignition(4 pin connector), if not, the red is red/blue (coming from man fuse), both orange and grey are orange (either will work, just 2 leads form the same circuit), and brown is still brown... so, red-blue is bat hot, either orange is ign, and brown is hot to lights.... on 86's, the grey wire is on both sides of the 4 pin connector,and the orange ign hot has an orange/blue wire on the harness side attached to the same pin....87-94 the grey wire is jumped from the main harness side orange to main harness side grey terminal, as well as the orange/blue wire being attached there....95-03 are the same as 86s....

edit: by the way, JOG2's suggestion for the mcroswitch jumping the decomp timer circuit is an excellent idea... it eliminates all the other switches in the start circuit... thus, any failure on the switch side (clutch switch, start switch, and harnessing involved) can be bypassed, and let you ride home, instead of calling for a pickup truck... it's also excellent for a diagnostic tool for start circuit faults.... hit the oem start button, no crank? hit the JOG2 switch.. if it cranks, fault is to the switch side of the decomp timer, no crank, fault is from decomp to starter... it cuts the diagnostic variables in half.... ;)