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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Building the Bypass Oil Filtration System
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Message started by Oldfeller on 02/01/09 at 16:18:28

Title: Building the Bypass Oil Filtration System
Post by Oldfeller on 02/01/09 at 16:18:28

Source thread for the start of this topic is located here ....

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1232661088

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Verslagen has done some more of his excellent research and he has come up with a fully functional mountable bypass oil filtering system for the Savage that is affordable to buy (less than $60 bucks with the required basic piping & fittings) and has inexpensive replacement oil elements that cost around five bucks ($5 plus shipping) to purchase.

This is some notably good research and Verslagen gets full credit for bringing it home to the list.

And, best of all, this system may quite possibly be available locally at your local oil heat system supply house as they are REQUIRED BY LAW on newly installed oil heating systems by most states now.

In the rest of this topic I will be talking about mounting my home made system (so ignore the exact specifics of my system unless they apply to Verslagen's as well).

Pay attention to Verslagen's system because if I didn't already have the pieces built to put mine together --- I would surely be building Verslagen's system, not mine. Verslagen's system is a better idea.

Oldfeller

Title: Re: Building the Bypass Oil Filtration System
Post by Oldfeller on 02/01/09 at 17:32:14

Why only use relatively stiff copper or mild steel tubing for the first leg out from the oil tunnel gage tap port?

HEAT, pressure and vibration are the reasons. Our oil temps can get up to 250-350 degrees F under certain fairly bad summertime type idling conditions. Racing nasty Dragon run type running conditions can hit similar dirt nasty hot oil exit temps as well.

Plan for some excess, I always say. Heat alone by itself rules out the use of engineering plastic tubing here.

Pressure really isn't the main reason. Exit pressures have been seen upwards to 50 psi under cold start conditions, so pressures can get on up there as well, but not generally while the oil is smoky hot. Smoky hot oil temps are generally found under 20 psi at full running temperatures as the engine is fully hot and oil pressures are relatively low.

Sure, engineering plastic lubrication tubing can stand up to 250 degrees F at 75 psi, but who wants to bet their whole engine on such specialty plastic tubing never accidentally seeing something just a tiny bit worse than their temp/pressure rating levels in actual real world use?

Not me, I'm chicken when it comes to material selections.

Plus, the vibration levels around our engines are a real beetch sometimes -- you gotta plan for something that can really take a beating for that first leg out from the pressure port as our engine's motor mounts can get loose (rarely yes, but I have had it happen) and then what is going to happen to this particular piping juncture if the motor mounts are moving around some? Consider vibration's effects on that first leg of tubing -- how is it going to be constrained?

So, think metal and think about maybe putting some sort of vibrational stress handler into it as well.

Also consider the location of the nearby exhaust pipe as far as radiating some extra heat at your gage port's exit tubing structure. If the oil in that tubing isn't moving (because of a pressure setting on a check valve for example) then it is just gonna be sitting there a' COOKING in the radiated exhaust pipe's heat while you are sitting there idling after a hard summertime run .... heat on heat on heat building higher and higher.

So think heat, some isolation from vibration, and some insulation from any radiated exhaust heat and see if you can come up with some clever way to beat all these potential issues using commonly available quarter inch OD 1/8" ID copper tubing.

Oh yeah, protect that tubing from getting mashed flat the first time you bottom out the engine on the edge of a ditch or something similar ... it's not like that sort of stuff doesn't happen occasionally on them there mountain trips.

Remember, last summer Ed's forward controls got pushed back hard enough to actually crack his left side cover and Toymaker's forward controls got pushed hard enough to slightly bend his forward control plates ... Yeah, them ditches and such surely do happen in the real world. Hell on them foot pegs too ....

Title: Re: Building the Bypass Oil Filtration System
Post by Oldfeller on 02/02/09 at 03:28:41

Ok, you got your tubing up your front frame tube to the head area and now you want to break into it to tap out a flexible line to go to your oil pressure gage up on the handle bars.

What sort of fitting do you use? What sort of flexible tubing do you use?

Yeah, flexible is now possible because you dumped some heat out of the oil going up the 3 feet of copper tubing. The tubing is small, the oil is hot and the copper conducts and radiates heat very well. Engineering plastics and nylon reinforced rubber can live with the resulting temperatures that exist in the oil up at the head area.

Engineering plastic tubings are also now a feasible sort of thing, provided you do some heat checking and the temperature stays below say 150 degrees.

You are going to be joining some dissimilar materials now, some soft some hard. Push-to-join fittings are available, but would you trust it not to come loose due to vibration? No, I didn't think so.

Flare and cone stuff doesn't work well with plastics (they are too soft and can split over time). This leaves you with the recommended alternative -- compression fittings.

Yes, the type that squeeze the little copper ring down on the tubing to make up the seal joint. For the copper tubing side you do not need to use the support inner hollow pin thingie, but for the plastic tubing you do need to put the little hollow pin thingie inside the tubing before you crush the ring down on it. The plastic NEEDS the support or it will fail later on.

Compression fittings can do the dissimilar jointing job, resist vibration and not block the flow at all on the main copper line (yeah, your line to the pressure gage gets reduced, but it has no flow through it at all, just some pressure build up)

How do you block off a port on the "T" fitting if you decide you don't want the pressure gage hook up after a while? You can replace it with a simple union, or you can install a blocked off piece of copper tubing if you prefer to keep the port available for later use.

Title: Re: Building the Bypass Oil Filtration System
Post by Oldfeller on 02/02/09 at 15:43:57

Vibration proofing counts on your bypass system.

Vibration attacks your system two ways. First, it wants to unfasten your threaded compression fasteners. Second, it frets and fatigues your copper tubing at stress points like corners and joints until it wears through or causes cracks, breaks & leaks in the free span areas.

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This sort of cracking stuff sucks bad when you are 100 miles or more from home.
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Stop the fasteners from moving after you get them snugged down good by coating the fastener threads with the same silver ultra grey sealant you have been using to keep the pipe joint threads from leaking. Threads are threads -- this stuff acts like easy to remove "locktite" when used the same way.

To fight your vibration cracking issues grab some 1/4" rubber tubing (fuel hose) and whack off some little pieces an inch or so long. Thread these pieces of rubber hose over your copper tubing and position them so it is the rubber fuel hose is what takes the rubbing action at the spots where the copper tubing wants to rub, and run a slightly longer section over those critical corner areas where free air vibration would cause the copper tubing to flex and crack.

With the rubber corner hose sections in place you can actually nylon tie and/or glue the rubber hose to the nearby features you are bending around and get you some physical support to those critical bend areas.

Remember to go along beside the bottom steel frame tubes such that an impact will hit the bottom of the steel frame tube instead of your tubing. Your tubing should never be able to be pinched or hit by running over the edge of a ditch or a curb.

Your copper tubing should run from one rubber cuddle piece to the next rubber cuddle piece with not enough unsupported length to set up a wave harmonic vibration as your Savage goes thumping along. A foot distance is about all you want to be "unsupported", more than that can eventually fatigue and crack all on its own. Rubber fuel hose sections strung along your installed tubing can dampen vibrations and cushion any potential rub motions.