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Message started by 87SavageBobber on 01/12/09 at 09:39:07

Title: Tools
Post by 87SavageBobber on 01/12/09 at 09:39:07

I have a pretty simple question, besides your typical tools (wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, etc) what else is needed to work on these bikes? I'm about to replace the clutch and neutral safety switch, but want to make sure I don't get it all apart and then realize I need something specific... I know I should get one of those big rounded flathead wrench things to pull off the side cover, but...

Title: Re: Tools
Post by Rockin_John on 01/12/09 at 11:39:58

6B68666B69617D6B730A0 wrote:

There are many "specialty" tools needed for working on any motorcycles. However, for your particular job only a couple come to mind: Maybe an impact driver, and almost certainly a clutch hub/flywheel puller.

I went out to the garage to get my old puller to take a picture of it for posting, and of course I can't find it in my toolbox at the moment. But basically it is kind of pipe shaped with fine threads on the outside of one end for screwing into the clutch hub. The other end is capped off and has a hole drilled and tapped in it; which a high tensile bolt screws through. The bolt is used to screw down against the transmission input shaft to break the hub free and pull it off the splines.

Note: I have done clutch jobs without these tools; but it is easier with them, and sometimes they are a necessity.

Also handy when working on a motorcycle "clutch" (which should actually be plural...clutches) as there are several clutch plates: A set of measuring calipers for measuring the thickness of the various plates. Plus, a weight scale can be handy to test the strength of the old clutch springs and make sure that they are still stiff enough to apply the needed pressure on the reassembled clutch assembly.

Still not to worry though: If you are willing to run the risk of wasting some time; many times I've just pulled the side cover; yanked the clutch apart; thrown in new clutch wear plates; adjusted the clutch and all be just fine. A lot of this stuff depends on how worn out your old parts were, and if you are planning for a Sunday ride around; preparing to go racing; or taking a transcontinental trip. ;)

Oh yeah... Get yourself a manual... and read the clutch/transmission chapter: It would have told you the stuff I just explained! 8-)

Title: Re: Tools
Post by verslagen1 on 01/12/09 at 12:16:45

You need an old brake pad to pop the timing cover off, it fits right in the slot. Use a cresant wrench to twist it.

Title: Re: Tools
Post by 87SavageBobber on 01/12/09 at 13:25:24

Thanks, and a brake pad, huh? Interesting...
I forgot, but I do have a Clymer on this bike. I wasn't even thinking about that until you mentioned it. I bought a whole clutch assembly from a 95 Savage on eBay with something like 500 miles on it, so I figured I'd just swap that. Thanks for the help though.

Title: Re: Tools
Post by verslagen1 on 01/12/09 at 19:11:48

The steel backing of the brake pad is way better then steel washers.

Title: Re: Tools
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/14/09 at 10:01:20

687B6C6D727F797B702F1E0 wrote:

You need an old brake pad to pop the timing cover off, it fits right in the slot. Use a cresant wrench to twist it.

Cool..... I have a old set of pads I'll try it when I get home. Actually two sets, the OEM set and a SBC set.

Title: Re: Tools
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 01/14/09 at 10:55:02

There are some small compressors available at Harbor Freight, or look around Pawn Shops. A 1/2 impact uses quite a bit of air, but even a small compressor will provide enough air to get a nut busted loose or run down. Very handy on the clutch. It means you wont be forced to hold the engine from turning. They also have 1/2" deep impact sockets, cheap enough for a set to make it worth MY $$ to buy a set instead of just the 2 sockets that the bike needs. Those 2 sockets from a quality source would cost more than the set.Heck, One might come real close.
Tools that keep the bike out of the shop are not a cost, but an investment that returns a benefit.
I buy cheap tools for some jobs, better tools for others.

Title: Re: Tools
Post by bill67 on 01/14/09 at 11:10:48

I have a 12 volt impact i bought 8 years ago for $30 it really comes in handy,For rotating tires and anything else,has a lot of power and is fast.

Title: Re: Tools
Post by 87SavageBobber on 01/15/09 at 15:40:35

I love impact guns. My boss has an 18 volt DeWalt impact gun, and when building decks or trying to drive some big lag screws, that thing is amazing... Hadn't thought about using it on an engine, but that makes a lot of sense. Thanks,

Adam

Title: Re: Tools
Post by Rockin_John on 01/17/09 at 13:30:29

Just for the info of those who might not know the difference:

The manual hammer driven "impact driver" which I referred to in my earlier post is a very different tool from the "impact" of which bill67 speaks. Or the "impact gun" of which the OP now speaks for that matter. Each is a different tool; sometimes with specific use; but sometimes with cross purposes of the other tools:

The only one you want to use on the corroded Phillips head screws on the bottom of a carburetor float bowl is the hand-held screwdriver tipped and hand hammer driven "Impact driver" of which I was speaking. (Which is best driven with a shot filled "dead-blow" hammer so it doesn't bounce.) The action of turning the screwdriver bit at the exact moment the hammer is applying downward force on the screw has several advantages in both loosening the screw and preventing damage to the head of the screw. The other types of "Impacts" would likely just strip out the head of the screw in this application.

The others are power tools with varying uses, including loosening very stubborn or tight large fasteners; like the pneumatic (air) driven "Impact Gun." Which I favor for loosening things like the the lock-nut holding on some gears; or the lug nuts on the wheels of my truck etc...

Okay... Before anyone gets huffy: I am well aware that 95% of the people reading this thread already know the difference between the tools :D

But I'm explaining it for the benefit of the 5% who DON'T know the difference; and might tear their bike up by confusing the selection of the proper tool for a given situation. :-X ;)

Title: Re: Tools
Post by 87SavageBobber on 01/17/09 at 15:11:20

I wasn't even thinking of that, but I know what you're talking about. I do not own one of them, but I have used them before and do really appreciate their purpose. I haven't undertaken this project yet since I still have a thousand others before it, but hopefully it will be done before the summer.

Adam

Title: Re: Tools
Post by Toymaker on 01/18/09 at 05:32:20

Now I own almost every tool known to man...but one I use a lot is my cordless drill. It has a hammer-drill setting which I have used to remove stubborn screws that are too tight or stuck otherwise. I have the impact gun and whatnot, but the hammer-drill removed those stubborn screws holding the reflkectors and I used it once to remove those crappy screws on the carb.

T

Title: Re: Tools
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/18/09 at 19:43:02

Just noticed you are going to work the neutral switch. Not much to the switch to go bad other than the wire going bad. It's not adjustable, way too simple to need to be adjusted.

Tools, impact driver like Rocking John says. It is one of the best tools to help get screws off an older bike. I stripped many a screw until a buddy lent me his. I then ran right out to Auto-Zone and picked one up for myself. I think it was approx $10-$15 .

A good set of Metric sockets and wrenches are a must. A metric Tap & Die set always is handy. Sears Craftsman carries all three as sets.

A small air impact wrench is really handy but then you need a air compressor. And metric impact sockets.....

Did I tell you I like to spend other peoples money.... Hey I should go into politics... NOT

Title: Re: Tools
Post by prechermike on 01/19/09 at 05:07:56

I just bought a Dr Mom's led otoscope, the thing the doctor uses to look in your ear with for ear infections and so forth. I had the bright idea of using it like a bore light, to look down gun barrels (unloaded obviously) to make sure they were clean and everything was OK. It is not too good for that, the thing wants to look at something not through it.

However, it is great for looking at small writing on parts, dates on coins looking into electonic devices, and any other little thing you have.

They were $25 online and $15 at Walmart. Well worth it and I have only had it a week or so.

Mike