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Message started by atgep on 10/10/08 at 20:34:30

Title: Oil flow question.
Post by atgep on 10/10/08 at 20:34:30

I a still trying to figure out what the heck is going on with my clutch. In the shop manual it states to place the washers in correct order to avoid oil starvation of the clutch. Where does this oil come from?

I want to exhaust all possibilities before wasting another clutch.

Thanks.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by EssForty on 10/11/08 at 03:43:35

The thrust washers are of different outside diameters, 44 and 40 mm., and the same ID since they fit on the same shaft. When reassembling the clutch, the 44mm goes on the drive shaft first (inboard), then the clutch outer housing, then there is a spacer, followed by the 40mm OD thrust washer and so on. Apparently, as the oil travels towards the center of the clutch assembly, it follows a path around the OD of the outboard 40mm thrust washer. Ergo, if you mistakenly put the larger 44mm washer on last, instead of the 40mm, the extra 4mm of diameter will be blocking the oil path toward the inboard part of the clutch assembly.

Hope that answers your question.

The moral of the story is to hold the two thrust washers together and put the bigger one on the shaft first, and the smaller one on last and you'll be good to go, assuming you installed everything else correctly.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by atgep on 10/11/08 at 07:02:10

Thanks for the explanation. I do have the washers on the correct way.

Do you have any idea what the purpose of the o-ring is on the push part? Is there any kind of oil flow out of the center of the shaft?

Thanks again.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/11/08 at 10:22:00

Is this not shown in the Book? I havent gone out & looked in mine.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by atgep on 10/11/08 at 17:57:16

So today I pulled the clutch to inspect. I have 100 miles in the new friction disks. One of the steels is blue....Now there is a problem.There appears to be oil in the disks.

I know I need new steels. The springs that came with the kit were smaller diameter but a bit longer than stock. Are the EBK springs any good?

When the clutch is assembled out of the bike, the first disk is still loose becuase of the wave washer...Is this normal?

When I take the wave washer out and put it together, it locks up nice and tight. Is the Wave washer bad? Wrong one installled?

I am ready to pull the trigger and order every darned part becuase I am sick of messing with it.

I hope a few people here have a couple of answers for me.

Tom

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by T Mack 1 on 10/11/08 at 18:17:07

Should be oil in the disks.... it's a wet clutch.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by EssForty on 10/11/08 at 19:45:58

7560737164140 wrote:

Wave washer needs to be installed concave side out. Sure you noted the right orientation?

Push piece o-ring is more likely there to prevent oil from flowing INTO the center of the shaft. The exterior parts and clutch plates are bathed in oil. You have to think sorta backwards in a wet clutch configuration if you have never worked on one before.

Do you have a Clymers manual? It covers everything you need in Chapter 5. You can even find a pdf version online if you Google it.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by atgep on 10/11/08 at 20:37:46

Thanks to all who are responding.

I am using the clymers and made sure the assembly was correct.

I have never worked on a cycle clutch and am trying to understand how all the pieces interact.

The cycle history.
Purchased 2 months ago. Running bad with "many" "hotrod" things done to it. I got it running well enough reverting settings back to stock to realize the clutch slipped. I replaced the friction plates only and about 100 miles later the clutch started slipping badly. So I ordered another friction set and springs this time. Upon inspection one of the steels was blue and a cork disk was devoid of cork.

I cleaned all the steels, checked them and put the clutch back together with the new plates and springs. Clutch is still slipping :'(.

I have double checked all the obvious items and am left thinking the steels are bad and prehaps the pressure plate as well. I am wondering if the bevel washer is messed up(how?).

Today I took it all apart again. previous blue steel is blue again. Friction plates look good. I put the clutch together on the bench and can turn the first disk (the one next to the bevel washer). The rest of the disks are locked tight.

I have been using EBC plates and springs. My plan ahead now that I completed the BRC, is to order steels, pressure plate, and factory springs.

I have just been using the bike around town to learn the ropes. (ie not racing)

Any other coments or suggestions?

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/11/08 at 22:10:09

What oil you using? Friction modifiers are bad on wet clutches I hear.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by atgep on 10/11/08 at 22:12:54

Good question. I am using delo diesel oil.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by EssForty on 10/12/08 at 04:43:29

You want an oil with an API grade of SE or SF. Looks like the Delo does not meet either of those designations. As mentioned, certain additives that are good for other engines wreak havoc on wet clutches and can cause slippage.

Go with regular 4-stroke motorcycle oil with the SE or SF certification or Mobil 1 V-twin in a viscosity that is right for your local ambient weather conditions.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by atgep on 10/12/08 at 08:49:49

No kidding you are 100% correct. This is going to be an expensive....DOH!

Like I said, I am new to cycling and love it. I am also a tinkerer and it appears I may have caused this myself.

Thanks.

Title: Re: Oil flow question.
Post by EssForty on 10/12/08 at 09:52:44

We've all done things like that. I think everyone here has given themself a head slap enough times to cause permanent brain damage. ;D