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Message started by SavageWahine on 09/01/08 at 22:02:36

Title: Down for a while! Back up again!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/01/08 at 22:02:36

Got back from town today and noticed that my engine was covered in oil!
I just changed the oil yesterday and oil filter.
Thinking it might be the infamous oil plug thingy behind the exhaust head.
I found this thread in the tech section, but unfortunately the site with the pictures is gone.

PICTURES are at: http://photos.yahoo.com/djpennin

I saw Greg's thread but the only pic is the one of Julie holding the top of the engine.

I can follow the first part of his instructions without photos but I get lost after the red line. any suggestions?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-remove seat
-unscrew 10mm bolt on left side
-unscrew 10mm bolt on right side
-pull seat off
-remove left side cover
-remove screw
-pull off cover
-disconnect negative battery lead
-remove screw
-turn gas petcock off
-remove gas line from tank
-remove speedo cable
-unscrew from engine
-pull out speedo cable
-remove breather tube
-pull off tube from carb on right side of bike
-remove rear two 10mm bolts from rear of tank
-pull tank up and back and disconnect electrical plug
-remove left side chrome cover
-unscrew 10mm bolt from back
-unscrew 10mm bolt from front
1-use needlenose pliers to hold nut through fins
2-remove cable that goes to solenoid
3-loosen nuts that hold cable
4-pull off cable from head
5-remove spark plug wire from plug
6-remove right side chrome cover
7-unscrew 10mm bolt from back
8-unscrew 10mm bolt from front
9-slide right side chrome cover back and remove tube
10-remove chrome cover
11-unscrew solenoid left side 10mm bolt
12-slide solenoid up then replace bolt to hole solenoid up
13-this gets the solenoid just far enough out of the way to reach screws below
14-disconnect solenoid plug
15-remove 10mm bolts from head cover
16-DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT that is on the right side
closest to where you removed the big tube
17-remove the bolts in a orderly fasion from one side
to the other to even the stress on the head cover
18-dont forget the 10mm bolt that are under the valve timing cover
19-dont forget the other 10mm bolt under the other cover as well
20-remove the engine mount
21-unscrew the three 12mm bolts
22-remove cover
23-pull off head cover
24-clean any sealant that is on head cover
25-REPLACE your HEAD SEAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!
26-apply sealant to your head cover
27-NOTE when putting the head cover back on be sure and place that bolt that is upside down into the head, and also that very center bolt. I place those bolts on the head cover and taped them on so they wouldn't fall out as I  put the head cover back on.
-now do everything in reverse to put it all back together
-ENJOY (grumble grumble)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Guess I won't be able to ride for a while too broke to buy parts, too busy with work and no time to do this.
I'm seriously bumming right now.
In the roller coaster of life I definitely hit rock bottom, I guess I has too much fun on my trip to Montana!

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by verslagen1 on 09/01/08 at 22:26:04


78627D707F75667079787F74110 wrote:
-remove cable that goes to solenoid
-loosen nuts that hold cable
-pull off cable from head

This is the decomp cable.  The nuts mentioned are on the cable adjuster on the top of the engine left side.

I didn't remove the solenoid to acess the screws, but do it if you're having trouble.

Tip, number the steps so we can respond to certain ones.  so every one gets a chance.   ;D

Wish I could fly.  

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by FreeSpirit on 09/02/08 at 00:52:42

Well you could buy Greg's CD.

But...I personally dont know if it shows step by step how to fix things or not :-/

Actually I'd like to know if it does.

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 01:12:22


192D3A3A0C2F362D362B5F0 wrote:
Well you could buy Greg's CD.

But...I personally dont know if it shows step by step how to fix things or not :-/

Actually I'd like to know if it does.

HI FreeSpirit, I actually have Greg's CD, but there's nothing on it about this particular problem

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 01:13:54


4C5F4849565B5D5F540B3A0 wrote:
[quote author=78627D707F75667079787F74110 link=1220331757/0#0 date=1220331756]
-remove cable that goes to solenoid
-loosen nuts that hold cable
-pull off cable from head

This is the decomp cable.  The nuts mentioned are on the cable adjuster on the top of the engine left side.

I didn't remove the solenoid to acess the screws, but do it if you're having trouble.

Tip, number the steps so we can respond to certain ones.  so every one gets a chance.   ;D

Wish I could fly.  [/quote]
Thanks for the numbering tip. Did so.

What does decomp stand for?

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by FreeSpirit on 09/02/08 at 01:49:06


28322D202F25362029282F24410 wrote:
[quote author=192D3A3A0C2F362D362B5F0 link=1220331757/0#2 date=1220341962]Well you could buy Greg's CD.

But...I personally dont know if it shows step by step how to fix things or not :-/

Actually I'd like to know if it does.

HI FreeSpirit, I actually have Greg's CD, but there's nothing on it about this particular problem[/quote]

Ok then go to a Biker Bar,find a biker that just wants to be friends,check him out,meet his friends,see if he's an okay person....then....
Invite him over to show you how to work on this particular bike problem.

Okay,maybe not :-/

Go to a Biker Shop,hang around ,tell them you just need to ask a question...then before its over with he'll show you how to fix it.

Still no good? Ok I'll keep thinking on this  :D

A CD that showed you how to fix it would be the easiest and probably best solution ;D
(Sorry that Greg's dosent :(

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by Oldfeller on 09/02/08 at 03:27:44

One more time, oh you evil windmill, shall I tilt against thy blades ....

The pics in the tech treads need to be preserved.  People need the tech threads, it is the primary reason the list exists
(yeah, I know -- best chat on the web and all that, but when your bike breaks you need to know how to fix it)

Paladin, if I paid the money could you endlessly host the pics in the tech treads so they quit disappearing?  People like Greg spent a lot of time and effort building "HOW TO"s then the places they put the pics (like Photobucket) changed their retention policies and threw the pics away.

This has happened several times -- last one was the thread on the petcock mod to make it a manual petcock.  People scrambled and got the pics back on that one.  We were lucky ...

My offer is for the core tech thread posts -- hosting through whatever permanent means we can find that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

And yeah, once all his pics start disappearing you all will start to appreciate Savage Greg more -- he had some bark still left on his lumber but he sure knew what he was doing and he took a mean pic to help teach it -- I still refer to his stuff and think he knew a hell of a lot more than I do about a Savage engine.

Oldeller

(PS  last two times I tried to offer this I got zip/nadda response)

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by thumperclone on 09/02/08 at 06:34:37


352F303D32382B3D343532395C0 wrote:
[quote author=4C5F4849565B5D5F540B3A0 link=1220331757/0#1 date=1220333164][quote author=78627D707F75667079787F74110 link=1220331757/0#0 date=1220331756]
-remove cable that goes to solenoid
-loosen nuts that hold cable
-pull off cable from head

This is the decomp cable.  The nuts mentioned are on the cable adjuster on the top of the engine left side.

I didn't remove the solenoid to acess the screws, but do it if you're having trouble.

Tip, number the steps so we can respond to certain ones.  so every one gets a chance.   ;D

Wish I could fly.  [/quote]
Thanks for the numbering tip. Did so.

What does decomp stand for?[/quote]
decompression selenoid.clunk you should hear when you first hit starter button

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by thumperclone on 09/02/08 at 06:35:44


14373F3D3E37373E295B0 wrote:
One more time, oh you evil windmill, shall I tilt against thy blades ....

The pics in the tech treads need to be preserved.  People need the tech threads, it is the primary reason the list exists
(yeah, I know -- best chat on the web and all that, but when your bike breaks you need to know how to fix it)

Paladin, if I paid the money could you endlessly host the pics in the tech treads so they quit disappearing?  People like Greg spent a lot of time and effort building "HOW TO"s then the places they put the pics (like Photobucket) changed their retention policies and threw the pics away.

This has happened several times -- last one was the thread on the petcock mod to make it a manual petcock.  People scrambled and got the pics back on that one.  We were lucky ...

My offer is for the core tech thread posts -- hosting through whatever permanent means we can find that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

And yeah, once all his pics start disappearing you all will start to appreciate Savage Greg more -- he had some bark still left on his lumber but he sure knew what he was doing and he took a mean pic to help teach it -- I still refer to his stuff and think he knew a hell of a lot more than I do about a Savage engine.

Oldeller

(PS  last two times I tried to offer this I got zip/nadda response)
im in for$25..miss that savage greg

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by Jack_650 on 09/02/08 at 07:55:49

If the oil leak is from the little rubber-ish plug on the top, right, front of the head you can try what I did without spending a lot of money.

I pulled the top off with the motor on the bike.

Pulled out (pushed up from the bottom actually) the plug.

Painted the outside edge of the plug and inside rim of the hole with the
same liquid gasket goop I use when I put the top of the engine back together.

Pushed the plug back into the hole with some pressure/weight on it until the compound set-up.

Put the top stuff back on the motor, letting the gasket goop set with the bolts finger tight before finally torquing them down.

The main steps for disassembly and re-assembly to keep track of for annoyance purposes are that pesky long bolt on the top, left, front of the motor that doesn't come out and remembering that one of the bolts near the middle can't be put back in once the top piece is gooped and bolted into place with the engine still in the frame. DON'T ASK!!!

It's probably not as good a solution as getting the newer model replacement plug, but it was cheap, didn't have to wait, got the top of the motor gasket goop replaced (which for me needs to be done every 7k-9k miles anyway) and had me running again with the front of the motor fairly clean. It doesn't last forever, but then I seem to re-do lots of things on this bike every once in a while. In fact I'll be taking the top off this next week and re-doing this procedure since September has been designated do some prevent-work month.

Jack

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by Max_Morley on 09/02/08 at 08:38:58

SW just noticed your post, been to Seattle visiting getting our sidecar rig back from the shop. You were stopped by the item in red? I think Greg is referring to the left front head retaining fastener, which is upside down and the bolt stays in the head, not cover as I recollect. If you have an attack driver the decompression solenoid bracket is easy to remove by taking out the 2 phillips head screws. If not, then use the method listed. BUT FIRST !! are you sure the plug is the leak? Any chance it is the oil fill plug leaking, or the filter oil ring is not sealing,  and the wind blowing it up all over the bike. Isn't much cause from changing oil to make that plug start leaking and the wind will move the oil a long ways. The plug can actually be seen by looking up in the cavity next to the exhaust pipe, if it is loose yo can see it move up and down with the engine running. Probably too late for that now if the bolts are already loose. Wish I could be there, direct e-mail is on the card I gave you for a quicker response.  Max

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 11:30:58


456E6C6450393A3F0F0 wrote:
If the oil leak is from the little rubber-ish plug on the top, right, front of the head you can try what I did without spending a lot of money.

I pulled the top off with the motor on the bike.

Pulled out (pushed up from the bottom actually) the plug.

Painted the outside edge of the plug and inside rim of the hole with the
same liquid gasket goop I use when I put the top of the engine back together.

Pushed the plug back into the hole with some pressure/weight on it until the compound set-up.

Put the top stuff back on the motor, letting the gasket goop set with the bolts finger tight before finally torquing them down.

The main steps for disassembly and re-assembly to keep track of for annoyance purposes are that pesky long bolt on the top, left, front of the motor that doesn't come out and remembering that one of the bolts near the middle can't be put back in once the top piece is gooped and bolted into place with the engine still in the frame. DON'T ASK!!!

It's probably not as good a solution as getting the newer model replacement plug, but it was cheap, didn't have to wait, got the top of the motor gasket goop replaced (which for me needs to be done every 7k-9k miles anyway) and had me running again with the front of the motor fairly clean. It doesn't last forever, but then I seem to re-do lots of things on this bike every once in a while. In fact I'll be taking the top off this next week and re-doing this procedure since September has been designated do some prevent-work month.

Jack

Thanks Jack,
It looks like the oil is coming from the bolt to the left and behind the exhaust clamp. There's a good puddle of oil there.
I'm going to start her up again and see if it moves.

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 11:34:50


0E223B1C0E2C312F263A430 wrote:
SW just noticed your post, been to Seattle visiting getting our sidecar rig back from the shop. You were stopped by the item in red? I think Greg is referring to the left front head retaining fastener, which is upside down and the bolt stays in the head, not cover as I recollect. If you have an attack driver the decompression solenoid bracket is easy to remove by taking out the 2 phillips head screws. If not, then use the method listed. BUT FIRST !! are you sure the plug is the leak? Any chance it is the oil fill plug leaking, or the filter oil ring is not sealing,  and the wind blowing it up all over the bike. Isn't much cause from changing oil to make that plug start leaking and the wind will move the oil a long ways. The plug can actually be seen by looking up in the cavity next to the exhaust pipe, if it is loose yo can see it move up and down with the engine running. Probably too late for that now if the bolts are already loose. Wish I could be there, direct e-mail is on the card I gave you for a quicker response.  Max

Aloha Max  :)
No it doesn't look like the oil came from below. I cleaned of the engine after all the oil spillage and started her up again and watched for the drip.  At first it came dripping down on the left side of the bike, but it was on the stand so the oil ran to the left.
I looked at that plug and there's a lot of oil puddled up in there, so I'm pretty sure that's where it's coming from.

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by verslagen1 on 09/02/08 at 11:37:14

Anyone contemplating removing the head cover would do well to plan on replacing all of the bolts.

When I did mine, lost one on removal, 2 more durring installation.

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by T Mack 1 on 09/02/08 at 11:52:03

SavageWahine,
    I think you know this aready.... WD-40 is your friend......  (the wonders of living on an island.... :) )

Before you attempt the head cover removal, squirk the bolts down with a little WD-40 (or Liquid wrench or CRC , your chioce).  Just a little,  then ride around a bit.  Let it cool ... repeat a couple more times.  This "tempeture cycling" will cause the penetrating oil (WD-40, Liq. Wrench etc etc) to work it's way into the threads.

Also, the oil going by that plug is oil that is returning to the sump.  It's not in the "gotha oil something" path.   It's just a messy thing, won't damage the engine as long as you keep an eye on the oil level.

Note: I replaced my plug, took 2-3 hours.  But, the engine was apart previously....

Note2: For the Decomp linkage,  if you can, leave the adjusting nuts alone, remove the bracket that is attched to the cover using the two philips screws.  That way you don't have to worry about readjusting when you put it back together.  

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by verslagen1 on 09/02/08 at 11:54:41


213B2429262C3F292021262D480 wrote:
1-use needlenose pliers to hold nut through fins
2-remove cable that goes to solenoid
3-loosen nuts that hold cable
4-pull off cable from head


You use these pliers to hold the head of the bolt that holds the chrome head covers on.  On the other end is an acorn nut.

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 12:00:56

I need to invest in a good bright flash light!!!
With my engine painted black it even harder to look into that crevice.
Did not see the bolt move up and down however. I'll clean up the area and run her again in a while.

T-Mack, what exactly will spraying the bolt with W-40 do?
You're talking about helping with the ease of removal?
I think I will try a quick fixer method at the moment.
I'll do a better job in the future when I can afford it.

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by T Mack 1 on 09/02/08 at 12:11:23


776D727F707A697F7677707B1E0 wrote:
I need to invest in a good bright flash light!!!
With my engine painted black it even harder to look into that crevice.
Did not see the bolt move up and down however. I'll clean up the area and run her again in a while.

T-Mack, what exactly will spraying the bolt with W-40 do?
You're talking about helping with the ease of removal?
I think I will try a quick fixer method at the moment.
I'll do a better job in the future when I can afford it.


I think you will find yourhead cover  bolts frozen tight.   The WD-40 will help free them up a bit.  As Verslagen said, the bolt can snap.  

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 13:16:52

I'm pretty sure now that this is the culprit.
Used Greg's image in his tech forum.
http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/CylinderNut01web.jpg
I cleaned up the area and ran the bike for 5 minutes.
It was totally covered in oil again.
I'm going to have to think about this for a while.
If it takes you guys about 3-4 hours, it'll take me about twice that long if not more. I'm a little slow cause I keep on double checking myself afraid to make a mistake.
And what seems logical to someone does not always seem logical to me, so you got to add the time it takes for me to wrap my head around a concept first before I even tackle it.

Title: Re: Down for a while!
Post by T Mack 1 on 09/02/08 at 13:29:39

Oil there means the culprit is 95% the plug....  (probably 100% but I'm leaving room for other odd things)

The hardest part is loosening the bolts, second is rotating the cover so it clears the frame.    

Remember, cardboard with sketch of the cover. As you take the bolts off, push them thru the corresponding spot on the sketch.

Remember to clean the surfaces where the cover matches up with the head.  The gasket gook need oil free surfaces to work properly.  

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 15:24:12

Okay!!!
Couldn't focus on the job I'm supposed to do (I hate it shouldn't ever have taken this one) so I started messing with the bike.
Put it on the poor gal's bike-stand and got the tank off etc.
took the left side chrome cover off (W-40'd for sure) and looked inside.
Bunch of oil piled up in there and dirt.
Looked again there was something lying in there. A huge bolt!???
How did that get in there, no idea. The I figured it had to come from somewhere so I looked around. I saw the engine mount bracket thingy and noticed that there was an empty hole in there about the size of the bolt.................
Looked on the other side of the bike, and what do I see......a nut! Fits on bolt....
It took me a few seconds to realize that I was looking at the bolt that is supposed to hold the  top of the engine on the frame. Well. the hole on the engine that the bolt goes through does not line up with the hole in the bracket anymore. By the looks of it , it has been off for quite a while seeing the bracket hole is rusty.
That might give me some problems I guess.

I'm not quite sure what is meant by step 2, 3 & 4.
The solenoid is on the right hand side the only cable I see is the electrical one.
Is that thing on the left part of the solenoid?

2-remove cable that goes to solenoid ??
3-loosen nuts that hold cable???
4-pull off cable from head
5-remove spark plug wire from plug

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by Demin on 09/02/08 at 16:02:40

[smiley=vrolijk_26.gif]Ok,I'll sacrifice myself ;DGet me a ticket there,and I'll fix it for free.

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 16:58:30


4F4E4642452B0 wrote:
[smiley=vrolijk_26.gif]Ok,I'll sacrifice myself ;DGet me a ticket there,and I'll fix it for free.

HMMMM something tells me that having the dealer fix it will be cheaper then buying you a ticket! LOL (not that I wouldn't love to meet you!)

I finally figured out what I'm supposed to do but I need to borrow one of those power screwdriver (forgot the name) because those are Philips head screws and I tried to loosen up one and it started shredding the head a little so I'm leaving it alone till I get one of those power things.
I am worried about number 16
DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT that is on the right side
closest to where you removed the big tube
can't figure out which bolt he is talking about.

http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/HeadPattern01web.jpg
is it L25 or c25?

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by Max_Morley on 09/02/08 at 17:10:21

Hand held impact wrench or in the Japanese translation "attack driver". Sears usually has them, I like the 3/8 drive size best, 1/2 will work. You twist it the way you want to turn the screw/bolt/nut and then smack it with a decent size hammer. It drives the bit into the mating holes in the screw head and turns it. Usually one or two smacks does it. Max

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by verslagen1 on 09/02/08 at 17:14:28

s30 is the one you don't remove.

impact driver

the cable to remove is like the clutch cable on the left side and attached to a lever on the head, real loose.

Yep, I twisted off that screw when I did mine too.

I've wondered, can you push that plug up from the bottom and pull it out?

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 17:21:30


766572736C6167656E31000 wrote:
s30 is the one you don't remove. THANKS it's still on

I've wondered, can you push that plug up from the bottom and pull it out?


I think I might try that myself and leave the solenoid cable attached.
Maybe just tip the right side up and see if I can get to the plug.
I forgot who but someone else did it that way too.

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by T Mack 1 on 09/02/08 at 18:48:50


2339262B242E3D2B2223242F4A0 wrote:
[quote author=766572736C6167656E31000 link=1220331757/15#24 date=1220400868]s30 is the one you don't remove. THANKS it's still on

I've wondered, can you push that plug up from the bottom and pull it out?


I think I might try that myself and leave the solenoid cable attached.
Maybe just tip the right side up and see if I can get to the plug.
I forgot who but someone else did it that way too.[/quote]

Leave the cable on the bracket!!!!!   Take bracket off the headcover,  two philips screws.....  

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 19:19:49

Okay....
Is there anything amiss with what you see?
http://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-1405446-800.jpg

http://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-1405447-800.jpg

http://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-1405448-800.jpg

There was only one small rubber seal on the whole engine part, except for head plug end big round rubber plug, and that was the one around L30.
According to the printout with the bolt locations L16, L70, L60 and L55 have gaskets, but there were none on mine.
What exactly is the head seal? that big rubber plug?
both plugs look in good shape however, no deterioration or punctures or anything.

I did end up shredding one of the philips head screws even with the impact drill, and ended up dremeling the head so that it would hold a size 3 philips. Then I used the impact drill again to get it off. I got lucky!!

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 19:32:20

Does anyone know where this little o-ring came from?
There wasn't one on my engine.
Greg's image:
http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/HeadCovSeal01web.jpg

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by verslagen1 on 09/02/08 at 20:12:56

The figure 8 o ring on the head cover?

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/02/08 at 20:30:51

Now this is going to sound stupid, but why-oh-why is that plug there in the first place???
What is it's function?
NEVER MIND

It's for access to another bolt.
Not too clever if you ask me

I looked at the diagrams on Bikebandit, but can't seem to locate the philips head screw I messed up. The one that holds the solenoid cable bracket to the engine.

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by Max_Morley on 09/03/08 at 09:29:29

SW you should be able to find that screw locally as it isn't very special. Take it with you to ACE or whatever you have there and match it. If they only have one too long, hacksaw it to length. The pear shaped o-ring goes in the cavity on the lower right corner of the top picture. It is important as there is pressurized oil coming up around that fastener. Also there is a messed up one of the 2nd picture lower left. Max

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/03/08 at 11:18:14

I'm about to put things back together but am confused about number 25 REPLACE your HEAD SEAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did not see a head seal when I took the top off. (or did he mean the big plug?)
Can I use the red high temp silicone to do this?
Also exactly where do I put this silicone when putting the top back on?
Looking at the picture of Julie I see the reddish ring around the edges. I guess it's safe to put the silicone in the same places.
http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/JMD04Repair01web.jpg

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by T Mack 1 on 09/03/08 at 11:24:33


4D5748454A4053454C4D4A41240 wrote:
I'm about to put things back together but am confused about number 25 REPLACE your HEAD SEAL !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did not see a head seal when I took the top off. (or did he mean the big plug?)
Can I use the red high temp silicone to do this?
Also exactly where do I put this silicone when putting the top back on?
Looking at the picture of Julie I see the reddish ring around the edges. I guess it's safe to put the silicone in the same places.
http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/JMD04Repair01web.jpg


I think the 25 is for full head replacement.   You only had the cover off so the Red High Temp stuff is fine.  Make sure surfaces are oil free.

Also gook up the plug with red stuff.

Also,  check the torque on the head bolts.  (torque wrench required, ((borrow one???)))

Also.... there is an o-ring for an oil passage.  It gets pushed  in an odd shaped opening and becomes oblong.

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/03/08 at 11:37:45


364F2F03010953620 wrote:
Also.... there is an o-ring for an oil passage.  It gets pushed  in an odd shaped opening and becomes oblong.

I take it you are talking about the one going in the corner. almost a figure 8 one.
the one on the bottom left right?
http://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-1405447-800.jpg

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by Max_Morley on 09/03/08 at 11:48:04

SW, use a minimal amount of the sealer, if too much is there, it can be pushed out into the head space and fall off and down into the engine and plug up the oil pump inlet. I like to use a very short bristle brush about 3/8 wide to carefully paint a thin coat of sealer on the mating surfaces. I do put a tall not large diameter blob on top the plug that leaks to try and keep it down in place longer (just above the head surface height will do). A thin coat on the outside of the cam end plug is a good idea also. I usually use a little early on(gives it time to get tacky) to hold the pear shaped "o-ring" in the cover so it doesn't fall out as you maneuver the cover in place.  Also you said one of the top engine stay bracket bolts were not in place. You may have to loosen the lower bolts(the long ones that go through the peg supports) and the 2 in the back of the engine  and use a lever or jack to correctly reposition the engine to get the bolts in. Use some blue locktite on them. Also use a long cotton swab to soak up all the oil in the bottom of the head cover bolt holes as if there is oil in the bottom they will seat on the oil but not be clamping the cover on and loosen later. have fun, Max

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/03/08 at 11:50:36

Thanks Max,, you're a lifesaver!

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by T Mack 1 on 09/03/08 at 13:35:44


667C636E616B786E6766616A0F0 wrote:
[quote author=364F2F03010953620 link=1220331757/30#33 date=1220466273]
Also.... there is an o-ring for an oil passage.  It gets pushed  in an odd shaped opening and becomes oblong.

I take it you are talking about the one going in the corner. almost a figure 8 one.
the one on the bottom left right?
http://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-1405447-800.jpg[/quote]

Yes Ma'am.......

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by ALittlebird on 09/03/08 at 14:48:35

SavageWahine when you finish yours you can do mine. I came back to the same problem.  :)

And I still haven't gotten the carb seen to so I'm running it on prime. It will run on prime so at least I'm not bikeless.

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/03/08 at 21:15:03


7A03634F4D451F2E0 wrote:
[quote author=667C636E616B786E6766616A0F0 link=1220331757/30#34 date=1220467065][quote author=364F2F03010953620 link=1220331757/30#33 date=1220466273]
Also.... there is an o-ring for an oil passage.  It gets pushed  in an odd shaped opening and becomes oblong.

I take it you are talking about the one going in the corner. almost a figure 8 one.
the one on the bottom left right?
http://w3.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C09%5C02%5Cbikepics-1405447-800.jpg[/quote]

Yes Ma'am....... [/quote]
Ma'am....LOL
So Southern!!!
Thanks for the help it's been much appreciated!!  :-*

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/03/08 at 21:22:45

Got the top back on, but will have to wait till tomorrow to finish. After 5PM the mosquitoes get so bad that I end up waving my arms around more then actually getting something done.
I'm also going to need more energy to loosen up all the bolts that hold the engine on, so I can jack it up and get the bolts through the top bracket.

I did hit a little SNAG  :(
The little arm that holds the solenoid cable with the little knob on it, does not move up as much as it did before....???
So I had to slide the cable through the arm first and then mount the bracket to the engine. I wonder if that means trouble???
I did find new bolts to hold the bracket on, ands they are actually nicer then the old ones, no more phillips head but allan.
Please let me know if that little arm with the spring attached is supposed to be able to go up a lot, it only moves about 1/4 inch up now. Wonder if I jammed something when I put the head back on.

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by verslagen1 on 09/03/08 at 21:39:21

The freeplay adjustment supposed to be 3 to 5mm (.12 to .20")

At TDC.

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by SavageWahine on 09/04/08 at 11:04:51


283B2C2D323F393B306F5E0 wrote:
The freeplay adjustment supposed to be 3 to 5mm (.12 to .20")

At TDC.

That sounds about right. Before I redid the plug it moved up about 3/4 inch. Maybe something was wrong before?

What does TDC mean?

Title: Re: Down for a while! You're not going to believe
Post by Max_Morley on 09/04/08 at 11:09:57

SW
Piston at Top Dead Center.
BTDC Before TDC =typical point that ignition occurs and the other mark on the flywheel when you have the generator cover off.
ATDC. used when timing camshaft or referring to it.
BDC Bottom Dead center.

Title: Re: Down for a while! Back up again!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/04/08 at 20:56:32

Thanks everyone for your help.
Got the engine jacked up enough this morning to slide the engine mount bolt on the top through, and put everything back together again.
She started right up and purrs.
I ran her in the garage for 5 minutes....no leak, and took her on a 10 minute ride....no leak.
Tomorrow is the real test, got to run to town.

Title: Re: Down for a while! Back up again!
Post by Max_Morley on 09/04/08 at 21:14:33

S.W. Glad you are " on the road again".  certainly a sense of satisfaction for sure. Be sure to retighten to specs or close all the engine mount bolts to minimize vibration concerns. If any are loose it can be a vibration cause and will certainly stress the other fasteners.  3 at the top under the tank, the 2 long ones between the 2 foot peg brackets and the 2 in the back of the engine, one down low and one mid point.

Title: Re: Down for a while! Back up again!
Post by SavageWahine on 09/04/08 at 21:18:02

I will keep an eye on them! The single lower bolt on the top is now double nutted and both with loctite!

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