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Message started by Coleman on 08/16/08 at 10:50:19

Title: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by Coleman on 08/16/08 at 10:50:19

Well I went out to change the oil today in the bike and got her all drained which was a bit of a pain since my oil pan I was using was a bit tall and I had to kinda wedge it down there.

Anyway got the oil drained alright and the filter changed, checked the o-ring and it was in good shape, guess I shouldn't have bought one but owell.

So I start to fill up the oil and get to about 2 qts and look down at the window and its not filling. So I let the bike set for a while and check again nada. I was kinda nervous about it but I started up the bike and let her run for a couple of minutes and nothing.

It shouldn't take to long to run down to the window should it?

Also a week or two before hand I went to go and get a new oil filter at the local parts shop and the guy couldn't figure out which part it was in the manual so he eased open the oil filter cover which let out some oil onto the ground whihc kinda annoyed me but owell. Anyway I went and filled it back up to where it was suppose to be that night and over the next few days I noticed a very slow oil leak. I thought hmm maybe it didn't sead right or something. I did notice a rubber hose and it seemed to be leaking from there. I looked around and there is nothing for it to attach to down there, and it even ahs its own bracket attached to the frame that points down so is this the overlfow?

Sorry for the run on paragraph but can anygody give me a clue?

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by Digger on 08/16/08 at 20:27:55

2C20232A22217D7F7C4F0 wrote:

.......So I start to fill up the oil and get to about 2 qts and look down at the window and its not filling. So I let the bike set for a while and check again nada. I was kinda nervous about it but I started up the bike and let her run for a couple of minutes and nothing.

It shouldn't take to long to run down to the window should it?.....

Hi Cole,

Well, for starters, please verify that you had the bike standing straight up when you checked the oil level in the window.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/16/08 at 21:43:40

Just dump 2 quarts in & go. When you come back, check the oil. Park, let the bike sit a couple of minutes & then, get down on one kneee & pull the bike upright. You will feel it get light. It will want to come over on you, push away, pull back, find vertical, then look at the window..

Yes, they really did want it to be fun..

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by Mr. Hyde on 08/17/08 at 05:46:13

When I first got my bike there was nothing visible in the window - a black hole. Turned out it was over filled as the dealer goes by the book. Drained it, refilled with 2 qts. and suddenly the oil level appeared in the window - magic.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by suzukigrl on 08/17/08 at 14:40:35

Just changed the oil last night. I put 2 qrts in and it was showing overfilled. I couldn't understand how it was overfilled with 2 qrts. well then I pulled out the owners manual and I stated that when you drain the oil that you had to hold the bike upright. since I was changing to a synthetic I needed to make sure that all the oil was out. I was surprised how much oil came out after holding the bike upright and placing it back on the kick stand. So you could easily overfill it and it not show in the window.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by bill67 on 08/17/08 at 15:39:32

When I drain oil I alway tip it over way down on both sides to be sure most of the oil is out,also start it up and let it run for about 5 seconds you will get a little extra oil out that way.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/18/08 at 15:31:50

Now that sounds like a real bad idea. The oil pump is sucking air, bearings in the head have zero oil pressure, the cam chain is pulling down & the aluminum is getting killed.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by barry68v10 on 08/21/08 at 14:20:17

Bill, I think if you stop that tactic of draining ALL the oil out, you'll double the life of your equipment. Tests indicated that 80% of all engine wear is caused by dry-starts. I would classify this as a "dry-start. I installed a pre-oiler on my most expensive equipment to avoid this very condition and am considering installing a few more...

Barry

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by verslagen1 on 08/21/08 at 14:42:21

4E4540401A1B2C0 wrote:

When I drain oil I alway tip it over way down on both sides to be sure most of the oil is out,also start it up and let it run for about 5 seconds you will get a little extra oil out that way.

:o Now there's a real questionable practice. Let us know when you take her down for a rebuild. :o

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by bill67 on 08/21/08 at 16:32:56

I'm getting rid of the dirty oil and I will keep on doing it.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by T Mack 1 on 08/23/08 at 18:13:24

I bought the bike with the engine in pieces. I had the case split to inspect the innards for metal fragments (a long story the P.O. would have to tell). I can attest to the fact that there are a myriad of places that, unless less you split the case, you will never get the oil out from.

As for doing what Bill76 does.... it would be better to adjust the oil change interval a little sooner.... but.....if you remove the sparkplug and crank it for 5 seconds , the damage might only be marignal. No sparkplug means no compression, which means much, much less load on bearings. Also, another tid-bit....my oil pressure guage doesn't come up to pressure for about 3 seconds anyway.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by Charon on 08/24/08 at 08:34:00

You can NEVER get all the old "dirty" oil out, short of a complete tear-down and cleaning of all the parts (including the oil-soaked cork plates in the clutch). You are wasting your time trying. Besides which, it won't make any difference to the engine anyway. As soon as you start the engine, even if you somehow get it completely clean, it generates more dirt in the form of combustion byproducts and wear particles. Your fresh, clean oil is now dirty. "Dirty" is a matter of degree, from "only a little dirty" to "very dirty." Even if you changed the oil and filter after every ride, you would never have completely clean oil.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by bill67 on 08/24/08 at 08:42:55

I change oil every 5000 miles I use Klotz synthetic 20w-50,Never had a motor go bad.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by Sandy Koocanusa on 08/24/08 at 08:56:05

Since the topic has come up again, I might as well ask...
Is there any validity to the use of products such as Slick 50 that claim to embed subatomic particles of alphahydroxic methylethyl hydorclorich badshitforsuranol in the metal of your engine, protecting it even when oil doesn't?

I suppose they would create issues with our clutch, but generally speaking, are they a scam, or do they benefit an engine?

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by T Mack 1 on 08/24/08 at 09:46:39

333534362B2D3637590 wrote:

Do they make a motorcycle specific Slick 50???? Regular Slick 50 and it's slipperiness would probably not be too good for the clutch.......

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by Charon on 08/24/08 at 09:53:36

I'll stick my neck out on the chopping block. There are no oil additives, and no gas additives except possibly Sta-Bil, that are worth the money. None will do anything except increase your operating costs. As far as I can see, they are all "snake oil."

I have already had someone proclaim to me the virtues of Marvel Mystery Oil, and there is a whole thread on here somewhere about the miraculous cures brought about by Seafoam. Until someone can show me a double-blind test, using at least several engines, I will still believe the additives are worthless placebos.

Bring on the testimonials and the flames.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by barry68v10 on 08/24/08 at 13:40:42

So far everything I've seen suggests that the only thing worth the $$ is better filtration. If you can filter oil down to about 2 microns, you eliminate almost all wear from an internal combustion engine. Most commercial high hour/high mile expectancy equipment runs 2 micron or less filters with some pretty impressive results. A standard full-flow filter usually only gets down to 15-40 microns depending on the filter/application. I would guess (based on casual observation, nothing scientific) that our Savage filters (emgo or factory) are closer to the 25-40 micron range.

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by barry68v10 on 08/24/08 at 13:44:00

To the extent that some fuel additives can dissolve varnish, I've found those to be helpful in both carburated and fuel injected engines...

Title: Re: Oil Chagne Problem
Post by EssForty on 08/24/08 at 17:56:08

I agree that most additives are snake oil. I did have excellent results with Techron once on a Honda Prelude that sat for 2 yrs with old gas in it. IT made an amazing difference in two tankfuls. We're talking about a car that stalled at every light if it wasn't revved to 3500 rpm. I went thru 3 tanks of fresh gas with no luck , until someone suggested Techron. Improved by the end of the first tank, and purring like a kitten by the second tank. Not exactly double blind testing but I was very happy to avoid a $800 quote for replacing the fuel injection system and the only thing changed was the Techron.

No experience with Seafoam in a bike but know lots of happy people with Mercury I/O's that swear by it.