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Message started by sidny4 on 08/12/08 at 14:18:13

Title: Seal exhaust leak
Post by sidny4 on 08/12/08 at 14:18:13

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to seal an exhaust leak between the header and the muffler? I have a light leak there and I'd like to make it more airtight. I don't have a welder or access to a welder. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by skrapiron on 08/12/08 at 14:19:09

Take it to a muffler shop.  Have them weld it shut.

Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by Gort on 08/12/08 at 15:17:23

Try Muffler cement.  I've used it many times on cars and it works well.


http://www.caswellplating.com/permatex/permrepairprods.html


Scroll down the page and you will see more than 1 choice.




Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by shadowman on 08/12/08 at 16:17:21

Last week I installed a Dyna muffler, and there was a substantial gap between head pipe and muffler.  I used this epoxy muffler repair tape that I got at Autozone ($2.50)  I wrapped three thicknesses around the head pipe-- very snugly-- and held it with a small piece of masking tape, then slid the Dyna over the headpipe and clamped it.  You have to run it for 20 minutes or so to melt the epoxy (it will smoke a little ).  It's been a week and I still have a good tight fit and no apparent leaks.  I used muffler cement years ago on my VW, and it would work if the gap is not too large.

Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by skrapiron on 08/13/08 at 05:10:40

Muffler cement, epoxy and muffler tape (bandage) are all temporary measures.

As the exuaust goes through it's heat and cool cycles, the filler/tape becomes brittle and will eventually flake off.  It's good for getting you home, or sealing a leak long enough to pass an emission's inspection, but it is not a permanent fix.

The only sure cure is to have it professionally welded shut.

Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by Paladin. on 08/13/08 at 05:37:48

There is a "muffler connector" that slips onto the end of the header that accepts the muffler for a tight seal.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/suzuki-motorcycle-ls650py-savage-2000/o/m6332

5-2:     CONNECTOR,MUFFL    484930-001    $10.68  

Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by Gort on 08/13/08 at 07:19:50


5E465F4C5D445F42432D0 wrote:
Muffler cement, epoxy and muffler tape (bandage) are all temporary measures.

As the exuaust goes through it's heat and cool cycles, the filler/tape becomes brittle and will eventually flake off.  It's good for getting you home, or sealing a leak long enough to pass an emission's inspection, but it is not a permanent fix.

The only sure cure is to have it professionally welded shut.






My experience with the 2000 degree muffler cement is that it lasts about a year, after which time it needs to be re-applied.  This is way cheaper than taking it to a welding shop, and once you weld it to the Savage header pipe, you've got to drop the entire exhaust system to take either the muffler or header pipe off.  Furthermore, you can't change to a different muffler later on without cutting the weld on the header pipe, and even then there is a fair chance you will damage the header pipe trying to cut the weld.  Why bother welding, when it is so easy and cheap to use 2000 degree muffler cement as a sealer?

Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by skrapiron on 08/13/08 at 13:18:20

I never had any problem removing my muffler/header as a unit once I had them welded together.  In fact, it was a bit easier to do than when it was 2 seperate pieces.

The only advantage I can see with the 2 piece system is it allows riders to swap exhausts to meet their tastes.  That was never really a concern for me, especially after I swapped for the Harley Muff.

I tried the 2000* epoxy and it worked for about 3 months before I had to chip off what was left and try again.  Once it was welded, no more leaks, no more worries.  Best of all, Mr. Muffler welded it up for me for $5.00.

Title: Re: Seal exhaust leak
Post by T Mack 1 on 08/13/08 at 19:19:14

When I mounted my Dyna, I used a piece of thin aluminum and "Exhuast System Joint & Crack Sealer" from AutoZone,  made by "VersaChem" PN 00160.

The aluminum takes up the space, and then the sealer only fills some voids (very thin).   Yes, if it wasn't for the Aluminum, I think the sealer would crack for being too thick.

Note: needs to harden over night for best results.  And..... it's a bugger to get off once it is cured.

If you still have the stock pipe,  buy a new gasket......  And maybe a new clamp since they rust....

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