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Message started by ralfyguy on 08/02/08 at 15:23:59

Title: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by ralfyguy on 08/02/08 at 15:23:59

My '06 has 5,000 miles on it, and I have a repeating problemwith a leaking clutch cover problem. So I changed it about 500 miles ago, and it was dry all this time and it starts leaking at the same spot again. So for all of you being curios about how far the tensioner is out at 5,000 miles on our bikes: It's already at 17mm out. Would have never expected that at this mileage. Can I still buy that modified tensioner (plunger) that one of you guys makes at home? (I forgot who makes it and how to get it)

Title: Re: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by Demin on 08/02/08 at 15:31:22

Verslagen makes them.Go with the verslavy.It is pinned not to come apart,and has a second hole.Punch it up in the tech section,you'll see what I mean.

Title: Re: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by verslagen1 on 08/02/08 at 16:19:55

yep, just ordered some more new ones. ;D

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1180206459

Title: Re: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by ralfyguy on 08/02/08 at 18:45:37

That triangle shaped pice of steel that is attache to the rear guide and bolted to the plunger eye on the front. Is it welded to the rear guide or held on by screws? I missed out to check on that while I had it open. Looking at some of you guys pictures, I can't really tell. I was thinking about replacing that plate with self made shorter pice to get the plunger back in.

Another question: Is it possible to remove the rear guide, or at least drop it low enough to bend a bit more of a curve on it with disassembling half the drive train? That chrome bolt on the outside of the cylinder is all that's holding it on right? Or is it impossible to drop down a bit without removing the chain, because it sits in a pocket?
I have been looking at a bunch of pictures, and seems to me, that over time the rear guide is flattening out, thus the plunger pops forward more then. Giving this back a bit more radius should take more slack out of the chain, thus leaving the plunger further back in the housing. Maybe I'm just thinking wrong.

Title: Re: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by verslagen1 on 08/02/08 at 19:12:30

The triangle plate is rivited to the guide (if I remember correctly)
The black paint seals it so can't tell you if it is also welded.

The extention bar is a posibility, but you need to add a second bolt to the triangle plate for stability. And make sure this added screw is secure.

removing the guide w/o taking off the head is a possibility if you remove the primary cog. Otherwise chain will be too tight for you to get it out of the pocket. chrome bolt on outside is what it pivots on. One issue you'll have is the hole for the chain is bigger at the top then the bottom. In mine there was about an 1/8" mismatch.

You might be able to bend it in place, but I wouldn't. after the bend you need to look at it closely to make sure the plastic isn't shedding off. One guy found this plastic clogging up his oil pump.

putting a radius in the guide has been done and gotrdone, but look at it closely.

That guide is made out of spring steel. New ones are almost the same as the ones removed. So they haven't straightened out a bit.

Title: Re: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by ralfyguy on 08/02/08 at 19:30:25

[quote author=2C3F2829363B3D3F346B5A0 link=1217715840/0#4 date=1217729550]

The extention bar is a posibility, but you need to add a second bolt to the triangle plate for stability. And make sure this added screw is secure.[quote]
Sorry I lost you there. I didn't understand that part.

Title: Re: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by verslagen1 on 08/02/08 at 19:34:04

3B28252F302E3C30490 wrote:

I guess I misunderstood what you meant to do here.

Title: Re: Chain Tensioner Again
Post by ralfyguy on 08/02/08 at 20:00:41

263522233C3137353E61500 wrote:

[quote author=3B28252F302E3C30490 link=1217715840/0#3 date=1217727937]That triangle shaped pice of steel that is attache to the rear guide and bolted to the plunger eye on the front. Is it welded to the rear guide or held on by screws? I missed out to check on that while I had it open. Looking at some of you guys pictures, I can't really tell. I was thinking about replacing that plate with self made shorter pice to get the plunger back in.

I guess I misunderstood what you meant to do here.[/quote]
I was talking about the triangle piece at the bottom of the rear guide. I was thinking about removing it, and the fabricate a new piece just like it, only shorter in length, which pur push the plunger back in the housing again. It would do the same as extending the plunger with a second hole. It's only made out of sheet metal. I could cut a piece of same gauge sheet metal, put the two bends in it and drill a hole in thr front bolt the plunger on with the original 8mm shoulder bolt, using a nut on back side. The new piece would be looking very similar, exept shorter to decrease the distance from the plunger eye to the guide. But if it's riveted to the guide rail, then it would be too much trouble to take it off without having to remove the whole guide, and all the other stuff you'd have to take apart to do so. I was just thinking out loud. I am a german precision machinist and was trying to help myself in a different way without having to weld and such, as I am restricted in possibilities without access to a shop and any kind of tools required. Making a modified piece of that triangle shaped one attached to the rear guide would only require a saw, a file, a drill and a vise to have. I was hoping it was only screwed on, and could be easily removed, but never mind. :)