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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> New engine break in question. /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1208842272 Message started by Jay on 04/21/08 at 22:31:11 |
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Title: New engine break in question. Post by Jay on 04/21/08 at 22:31:11 Hi Group, I've been lurking around here as a guest, doing research on this fabulous bike, for about 2 weeks. A big thank you to the members and moderators that make this such a successful site. I belong to a couple of other forum groups for other bikes, but their participation and loyalty to their bike is no where near the level I've found here. Thanks to the wealth of information I've found here, today I took delivery of my brand new 2008 Suzuki S40! What a deal. It wasn't even out of the crate yet. I had called the dealership regarding a used 2007 with very low miles for $3899.00. "Long gone;" the lady says, "but I'll set you up in a '08 for the same price." What's a boy to do? The going rate in my area is $4399.00. I snapped it up, and now it's sitting pretty in my garage with 22 miles on it, 21 of them put on by me! (BTW a big kudos to Yamaha/Suzuki of Texas in Hurst. From the front door to the service department, these guys treated me like I was a celebrity.) That brings me to my question for the forum. Any recommendations, specific to this bike, for engine breakin. I've read several sites that said ride it like you stole it, to treat it with kid gloves. What works best for the S40. Thanks in advance. Jay |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/22/08 at 00:34:42 I wouldnt recommend riding it like you stole it. Read the book. Dont wind out for a while, work up the rpms, dont make it pull as hard as it can, work all the gears & bearings in, slowly increase how hard you accelerate it. Dont be seeeing if it will make 0 to 60 in 6 seconds. At sustained speeds, vary the rpm, Once you start running it up, run up to a new top speed, hold it a few seconds & drop back down, to allow any "Hot Spots" to cool back down equal to the rest of the engine. Ive been told that slapping the throttle shut at speed causes vacuum to drive the rings against the cylinder, speeding the mating. As soon as you have 500 miles on it & change the oil, it's okay to run it 100 MPH!!! The book says so, Dont lug it, while its new, its easy to make it chug, after its all broken in good, it will walk away from a stop from a much lower rpm. KEEP THE Idle set high enough to keep the top end lubricated. It is a low pressure system & setting the idle down low can cause serioous problems. Now, slap a TRapp on it, rejet it, put a fork brace on it & watch out for those stock tires. Mine were slick the whole 5,000 miles. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Jay on 04/22/08 at 01:15:35 Thanks justin_o_guy2. That's kinda what I figured on. Good advice about the throttle. I'll be sure to follow all of it. May wait a bit on the rejetting and Trapp though ;) Thanks again. Jay |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by barry68v10 on 04/22/08 at 03:20:52 Jay, I'd ride it for a while "stock." If you're happy with the stock setup, save your $ for gas to ride! ;D The only "performance" change I made with the carb was the white spacer mod (found in the tech section.) This was because my bike would "lean surge" at steady 55-60 mph at temps below 70F. After the white spacer mod, the bike acts like it's supposed to in all temps, so I haven't changed anything else. My 2 cents... |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/22/08 at 04:20:42 A very valid point.$$$ in the tank has its own appeal. Even if you do keep the stock exhaust, a fork brace helps the handling. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Moofed on 04/22/08 at 07:34:37 If you want to prevent your header pipe from discoloring from the stock lean condition, then consider adjusting the mixture now. My '02's pipe was already quite blue when I bought it at 900 some miles. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Mr. Hyde on 04/22/08 at 08:49:51 "I had called the dealership regarding a used 2007 with very low miles for $3899.00. "Long gone;" the lady says, "but I'll set you up in a '08 for the same price." Jay - You didn't buy it, you stole it. The cheapest price I can get on an '08 S40 in Eastern Ontario Canada is $5,700.00 +$600.00 Prep and PDI + 13% sales tax. = $7,199.00. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Jay on 04/22/08 at 14:41:26 Thanks guys, I plan on riding stock for a while, though I am considering a fork brace once I determine if I like the handling at all speeds. Have to wait til through with the breakin first. Mr. Hyde, you nailed it. I do feel like I got an outstanding deal. I'm still pinching myself. In addition to the money off the top, they gave me a $200.00 discount. My OTD with TTL and prep was a little over $4700. It wasn't like they had a bunch on the floor either. They didn't have any out, and like I said in my original post, the guys and gals at the shop treated me great, even though I wasn't spending big bucks. Introduced me around the shop, parts guy, finance guy, service guy. All of them treated me like I was the first customer they'd ever waited on. The shop was fairly busy too! As for the carb mod, I've read everything I can find on this forum, and will be watching the bike's performance like a hawk. At the first sign, I plan to drill out the plug and adjust the mix. I can't praise this site enough. There aren't too many forums with this loyal a following, that also have so much mechanical expertise and support to offer. Thanks again. Jay |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by steely on 04/22/08 at 20:34:35 The fork brace is a must. These forks are not "stout" at all and will twist. The fork brace will help keep the front end stiff and make handling much better. That being said, ride it for a few hundred miles, then invest in a fork brace. You will be amazed at the difference. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Jay on 04/22/08 at 20:55:08 Steely, Adding a fork brace seems to be the overwhelming concensus on this forum. Of all the recommended mods, that's the one that most people list as their "if I could only do one". Thanks for the input. Jay |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by steely on 04/22/08 at 21:03:30 No prob. Mine would follow any "road snake" I came to until I put the t-kat brace on mine. My GF even commented on the steadyness (is that even a word?) of the bike after taking a test ride on mine with the brace. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by stinger on 04/23/08 at 08:19:29 you think you like your bike now, wait till you supertrapp and rejet. until then its just a scooter |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by vtail on 04/23/08 at 09:36:19 Yes enjoy, When I got mine last June I immediately put in a bigger main jet and adjusted the Idle( pulled the brass plug) Now I run with a Mac exhaust, no spacer at all, 152 main jet. My exhaust stays clean (no soot) and my header pipe looks like new (no blue-ing) at 6400 miles. If you stay with the stock muffler at least do your bike a favor and put in a 150 main jet and adjust the idle. This most likely will keep your header without blue-ing and your bike will run better with less or no popping. Personally I also would go half spacer on the needle. Keep the shiny side up. ;) |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Jerry Eichenberger on 04/23/08 at 10:10:47 Two questions: Where do you get a fork brace? And, as to the break-in. Mine is long past that stage at 2200 miles, but I do have a question about it. In piston airplane engines that are air cooled, the old idea of being gentle with the engine during break in has long since vanished. What the engine manufacturers now recommend is being hard on the engine during break in, running even at full throttle, running mineral oil the first 50 hours, and not babying it at all. The idea being to increase internal pressures in the cylinders to hasten ring seating before the cylinder barrel glazes over, and the engine becomes an oil burner due to poorly seated rings. Why the differnce in an air cooled motorcycle engine? Anyone know for sure? |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by vtail on 04/23/08 at 10:49:08 The average aircraft engine has about a 4" inch stroke yet only turns maximum 2700 rpm. Our "little" lunger has almost a 4" inch stroke yet will turn up to 6500 rpm so the average pistonspeed is twice as high at top rpm. Higher rpm = more FRICTION HEAT being created. If we assume that exhaust gas temperatures (EGT's) are the same in aircraft vs our motorcycle engine (about 1250 degrees), we would create much higher ring temperatures do to the higher pistonspeed which can overheat the ring, softens it, looses it's tension etc which translates into oil consumption. So I broke mine in with SPIRITED riding but no high rpm's so internal combustion pressures were high which pushes the ring outward against the cylinder wall and I kept rpm on average between 2500 and 4000 (Oke I admit an occasionally burst up to 5000).Also I reduced EGT by enrichening the mixture with a larger mainjet, needle spacer mod and idle screw adjustment so I have NO exhaust blue-ing which is do to high EGT's, which in turn also shortens exhaust valve life. It's heat that kills engines! I now have 6400 miles, my pipe stays shiny and clean and oil consumption is almost nill. ;) Note; When the engine is cold I start it without choke if possible or turn that off asap, and then idle it at about 1500 rpm with my throttle lock till cylinder gets too warm to touch. It's Then that I'll ride off with moderate acceleration for the next mile or so. Never ride brisk with a cold motor. (Cold starts is when engines wear the most) |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Jerry Eichenberger on 04/23/08 at 11:00:18 Vtail - You know more about piston engines, obviously, than do I. Now, please tell exactly how to enrichen the mixture on my S40 at the screw - and please recall that you're dealing with a non-mechanic. I looked in the tech section once, but didn't understand what I saw. My bike already has the bluing of the pipe, but may as well stop any more damage. Thanks. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by verslagen1 on 04/23/08 at 11:32:31 505F5359525F54585F485D5F483A0 wrote:
1. On the right side of the bike, locate the carb, on the cylinder side of the carb and above the centerline of the intake is a screw (or a plug if you haven't removed it yet) That's the pilot mixture screw. If your bike KERPOW's on shut down, turn it to the left about 1/8 turn untill you have a poof. (this is the idiot's guide to carb tuning, for a more correct method check out lancer's straight and simple carb tuning in the tech section) 2. Blueing and pilot mixture adjustment have very little to do with each other. As most of the time that you spend with your bike it's not at idle speed. To get rid of blueing you have to rejet and use blue job (per instructions) check out savage wahine's carb cleaning post for where the jets are at. ;D |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by Jerry Eichenberger on 04/23/08 at 11:40:19 Thanks, I just printed your instructions to take home. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by vtail on 04/23/08 at 16:10:18 Like Verslagen says, blueing and idle mixture have little to do with each other. At idle you can not get the EGT's (exhaust gas temperatures) high enough no matter where you set it. The blueing is from heat while running under power. If you don't want to mess with the needle spacer mod or muffler mod, at least stick in a larger main jet like 150- 152.5 and adjust the idle screw to where she ticks over fastest. Then adjust idle at the throttle adjustment on the left side of the carb to 1200 rpm :) (The needle spacer is nothing more than a knee jerk reaction/solution by Suzuki to the stringent EPA requirements to lean the bike out for lower emissions and one of the bike magazines did an article on our 650 a few years ago and also said to completely remove it) |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by bill67 on 04/23/08 at 16:39:41 Any motor you need to go full throttle just don't overheat, like go from 45-60 in high gear full throttle then let off and ride a couple miles then do it again. that will seat the rings. |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by vtail on 04/23/08 at 16:44:46 62696C6C3637000 wrote:
Right on and that's 3000 to 4000 rpm (@ 15mph/1000rpm) |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by toro on 05/16/08 at 23:42:07 So I'm sitting at 200 miles now, should I do the whole re-jet, exhaust and air filter thing now, or wait a while? I also might have gone a little over 60 a few (3) times (downhill, not for long) will that hurt her too much? :'( |
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Title: Re: New engine break in question. Post by ErminM on 05/17/08 at 00:59:40 Before you touch ignition and exhaust I would check warranty, mine states that warranty is toast if I change any of that. Since I got 3 years warranty I leave it alone. While most people here could not care less about warranty I like to know it is there, esp since I got it included... Performance wise there is nothing I miss (maybe I just don't know what it could be), I do ride it hard and most of it is 120 kmh on highway. Never had any problems passing anyone up to 140 kmh. At 150kmh they charge you here with street racing and I am not so much into that :) Pipe is gold and going blue and I love it that way. Backfire is also there on parking and on hard deceleration and I love that too. It shows character, it is supposed to be savage, right? :) As for fork brace, I installed superbrace recently. Ever since I did that I am trying to figure out who installed monorail wherever I need to go :) It is amazing difference and the best part is wind does not touch the bike anymore... I can feel it whipping me but bike is steady as if it was parked... amazing! Second thing to do is to replace horn, that is 10 minute job and it is good investment... Good luck with your bike! 63786578170 wrote:
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