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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1207601486 Message started by rpgpgmr on 04/07/08 at 13:51:26 |
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Title: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/07/08 at 13:51:26 Okay, over the weekend I did some tinkering. I re-jetted from 145 up to 155, swapped the stock pipe out for a screamin' eagle style, and replaced the white spacer with two 4mm washers. I've still got a backfire and I think it's due to my idle mixture. The brass plug is still covering the screw and I'm trying to figure out how best to get it off? Anybody got a quick and easy trick for it? |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by verslagen1 on 04/07/08 at 13:58:20 Quite simple really Center drill the plug (make sure you got the right one) Size the drill any wood or sheet metal screw smaller than the plug (yeah, the plug is not meant to eaten or stuck in eye either) try not to drill thru the pilot jet screw or boogger up the slot. thread screw into plug and yank whole heartedly. |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by T Mack 1 on 04/07/08 at 19:27:29 I took my dremel with cutoff wheel, and put a goove on one side. It allowed me to get behind the plug and pop it out. Reason I did this.... I still have a factory plug..... and if our wonderful EPA changes laws (no tampering), I'm ready. |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/07/08 at 19:50:34 Goo0d move T-Mack. If you cant do what T did, & will use a drill, put tape around the drill bit, several wraps, about 1/8th back from the end, so the drill bit cant hit the screw in there. It's soft & easy to mess up. Still, low pressure on the drill, slow & easy, cuz messin up will take a lot more time to UNmess than its worth. |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/08/08 at 08:38:30 Verslagen1, You are da man! Drilled it out (put tape at the 1/8 mark so I didn't #$%@ it up), put a screw in it, and yanked it out. I put a cutting wheel on my Dremel like T Mac and thought that might be easier, but it was a bad angle for someone who doesn't get along very well with power tools. The backfire on shifting is GONE. I still have a little backfire on the down-shifting so I've taken another 1/2 turn (2 turns out total). It's just minor tweaking from here. Thanks guys! |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by T Mack 1 on 04/08/08 at 10:43:37 I should say that I slotted the carb while it was off the bike. remember, I got the bike with the engine in pieces.... was easy to do then. |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/08/08 at 13:42:10 When I re-jetted, I only changed the main jet (from 145 up to 155). I didn't mess with the pilot jet. I think the '05 comes stock with a 47.5 pilot jet. Lancer sent me a 55 pilot and I'm wondering if I should have put that in? |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by Reelthing on 04/08/08 at 14:10:10 you should really only need to change the pilot one size up if you close to or over 3 turns out on the mixture screw - with it this far out the mixture screw really isn't doing anything - so the idea is to the pilotjet size and close the mixture screw back to say 1 turn out and tune it from there |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/08/08 at 16:49:21 Yea, I've been testing all evening. I'm out to 3 turns and still can't get it to stop backfiring when using the engine to decelerate. However, NO backfiring during shifting. I was wrong about the size of the pilot jet for my '05. Since '95 they have been putting a 52.5 pilot jet in there. I bought Lancer's JETSET which includes a 55 pilot jet which is what I think I'm gonna drop in later this week. I noticed in the repair manual that back in the 80's they used a 55 main jet and a 47.5 pilot jet. Wonder if there's a reason they went down a size instead of up?? |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by Reelthing on 04/08/08 at 17:15:45 EPA changes - the mid 80's carbs are a good bit different - needle and several jets - they were not lean like the '95+ bikes |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by KwakNut on 04/09/08 at 00:26:08 6552525B435F5E5950370 wrote:
Despite having the richer jet and adjustable needle, it still had a blanking plug over the idle mixture screw. As our emission regulations were a lot more lax then, and the rest of the bike's engine specs are identical from the 80s to present, it has suggest that Suzuki think you need a 55 main even in a totally standard bike. |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by joebothehobo on 04/09/08 at 00:53:36 have you tried lancer's carb tuning guide? seems like youre just turning out and out, but maybe you should try finding that happy middle and deciding from there if you need to move up a jet or look elsewhere for your backfire problem (exhaust?). |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by Reelthing on 04/09/08 at 07:03:29 5F63757F5A6160140 wrote:
Despite having the richer jet and adjustable needle, it still had a blanking plug over the idle mixture screw. As our emission regulations were a lot more lax then, and the rest of the bike's engine specs are identical from the 80s to present, it has suggest that Suzuki think you need a 55 main even in a totally standard bike. [/quote] Hope you mean 155 mainjet in the mikuni spec sheets - it looks like the taper or rather the length before the taper begins was different as well pre-95 US - http://www.savageriders.com/reelthing/pics/savage/needle.JPG 4 different needles seem to have been used in the bs40 on the savage: 5c16 3 slots L 56.90mm D1 3.0mm K1 15.7mm 5c17 1 slots L 56.90mm D1 3.0mm K1 15.7mm 5c39 1 slots L 56.90mm D1 3.0mm K1 15.5mm 5c40 3 slots L 56.90mm D1 3.0mm K1 15.5mm If you folks with a 3 slot needle get a chance could you examine the needle and see which is stamped on it 5C16 or 5C40 if you look it over be sure it's a mikuni needle - should have their mark on it right before the type stamp - their mark is a square with a smaller square in it's corner - also a good way to tell if you have a real mikuni jet or some knock off stuff that may or may not be the size it claims |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by KwakNut on 04/09/08 at 08:50:46 0B3C3C352D3130373E590 wrote:
Mine was definitely a Mikuni needle, pretty sure it's the 5C16 but I'd have to check when I get home at the weekend (I wrote it down in my manual). Useful info on the needles, by the way! |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/09/08 at 10:05:53 Yes, Lancer's tuning guide is what I used to tune it. I just can't find a happy median with the idle mixture. I'm gonna drop in the 55 pilot (hopefully this evening) and use Lancer's guidelines again. I'm new to being my own mechanic so its been slow and painful. One way or another, I'm gonna get my Thumper straightened out. |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/10/08 at 07:17:49 Okay, I was up till midnight but I got the new pilot jet in there. Drastic improvement, but I'm still not there yet. I have what is probably a silly question. Will it backfire if I've turned the idle mixture screw out too far just like it will if it's not out far enough? I know that I'm looking for the sweet spot combination between the idle speed and the idle mixture but I'm not sure what direction to go? Yes I've read Lancer's tuning guide and LOTS of other threads on tuning the carb, but I'm still having a little trouble getting it. I write computer software all week long and it's probably the only thing in the world that I do well. I've come a looooong way in the past few months but I'm still in the Motorcycle Maintenance for Dummies category. ha |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by T Mack 1 on 04/10/08 at 10:27:10 There are two main things that can cuase back fire. Lean fuel air mixture and a leaking exhaust. It seems you have been concentrating on the mixture . To check for exhaust leaks, get a candle, light it and hold the flame up to all the exhaust joints with engine running. The flame should not be moved, either blown away from or pulled into the joint. It could get pulled into the joint because of ..... (see me scratching head again) venturi effect or is it Bernoulli's principle..... . Anyway, a leak will introduce air where is shouldn't be and the results can be a backfire also. Check for the leak then get back to us....... |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/10/08 at 10:38:50 You're right, I have concentrated almost entirely on the mixture. We had to remove the exhaust to put on the new muffler so we certainly could have sprung a leak. Rain this afternoon so I'll have to check it tonight or tomorrow. Hopefully I won't blow myself up with that candle next to the exhaust. :o |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by T Mack 1 on 04/10/08 at 13:41:18 5E5C4B5C4B415E2C0 wrote:
Depends how rich you made it.... ;) |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/10/08 at 21:29:48 Well you were right. I had an exhaust leak. When we installed the new pipe we snugged the head pipe while we got the muffler situated. Yep, we forgot to tighten the head pipe. :-[ Unbelievable! Oh well, I openly admit what a moron I am. After fixing the #@%$ exhaust leak, I used Lancer's tuning guide and now I'm dialed in. I still get some burbling & crackling on sharp decelarations using the engine, but from what I've read that's normal. Thanks for the tip(s)! |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by Reelthing on 04/10/08 at 21:49:23 Good Job finding it! and welcome to the moron club - my best one (I think :-/) was when I changed out the leaking head plug on the '95 and kinked the head breather tube put'n it back on - full twist smooth cutoff any air out of the head - well this ran the crankcase PSI up enough to push oil up the speed-o-meter cable to the speed-o-meter itself and leak back down the spring coil - covering me and anything behind me with oil - yehaaaaaa oh but we should really have a moron hall of fame - while yours is goofy, and mine was just dam dumb - how about this pair from a couple of esteemed members (who shall go unnamed by me :D ) one was running a grinder next to a battery and blew it clean up - the other changed the oil and didn't put any back! - so relax there's better morons around! :D |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by Kropatchek on 04/11/08 at 02:27:39 5F686861796564636A0D0 wrote:
As per your suggestion started in the Cafe THE MORON HALL OF FAME |
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Title: Re: Removing brass plug over idle mixture screw. Post by rpgpgmr on 04/11/08 at 05:43:17 The exploding battery would have been the end of my diy days! I take moments like that as road signs down the highway of life. When I'm out riding and I nearly wreck or lay it down (or are run off the road by somebody on a cell phone!), I turn around and head home. I say to myself, "Yep, almost died. Let's go home." ;) |
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