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Message started by DocNeedles on 03/11/08 at 20:22:31

Title: poor spark
Post by DocNeedles on 03/11/08 at 20:22:31

I have written in before and a brief recap. I was having problems with my spark plug getting carboned up with a non-oily deposit on my 1986 Savage with 13K miles. I thought it might be the carb and up graded to Lancer's kit with a K&N filter and a aftermarket Sportster muffler. It was running and then I couldn't get it running and took out the spark plug after cranking it over and there was gas on the plug. I then checked the plug on the side of the engine and got a red spark and then a blue spark. It did start running after I changed the new sparkplug with the older one, both sparked against the side of the engine. I am thinking it might be the igniter assembly and intend to take it to a mechanic and have the starting system checked out. I noticed on e-bay they have an ignition case off of I think a 2000 LS650 and theey specify 2 numbers a 32900-24B11, and a 32900-24B10. My # is 32900-24B00. Would this fit on my older bike?
Any other suggestions?
DocNeedles

Title: Re: poor spark
Post by Reelthing on 03/11/08 at 21:18:52

not on the '86 unless you change the stator/rotor as well

see - http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1204469312

Title: Re: poor spark
Post by Reelthing on 03/11/08 at 21:22:31

by the way they'll act like that if the compression is down - did you check it?

Title: Re: poor spark
Post by JakeB on 03/12/08 at 13:27:29

Carbon and gas on the plug sounds like the mixture is too rich, does it seem to run okay with no black smoke coming out of the exhaust?

Even if you bought the upgraded carb from Lancer, the mixtures could still be off.

Do a compression test. Then squirt some oil in the cylinder, see if compression goes up or if it stays about the same.

If the compression goes up the problem is with the rings/piston/cylinder and you will probably need to put an oversize piston in.

If the compression is the same as the no oil test then it's a problem with the valves.

JakeB

Title: Re: poor spark
Post by DocNeedles on 03/12/08 at 21:26:57

4A616B6542000 wrote:

It does run OK with no black smoke. Someone suggested to crank the motor over to see if gas was getting through to the combustion chamber, so the gas on the plug was because I cranked it over and then took out the plug to see if it had gas on it to make sure fuel was getting through. I then took out th plug and cranked the motor holding the plug aside the motor and at first a red spark happened then followed by a blue spark. I thought that the red spark might mean that the ignition assembly was at fault. I am going to make sure the connections are clean to the ignition assembly and then do a compression check, with squirting some oil into the chamber.
DocNeedles

Title: Re: poor spark
Post by smokin_blue on 03/13/08 at 03:33:52

49626E4368686961687E0D0 wrote:

If it truely is poor spark I would check that the coil has a good ground to the frame. make sure that the frame is clean underneath the bolts that hold it on. An also maybe more suspect could be the spark plug cap. If you want to check it roll back the rubber gromet/seal at the top of the plug cap and then unscrew the cap from the wire. Check it with an ohm meter. you should have around 11K ohms. If it is way high or open then you have a bad cap. they are about $3.99 to replace with an NGK model. If you are not familiar with them they have a carbon resistor built into them and over time that resistor can burn out raising the resistance of the spark circuit. We used to see this on old GS's and it would show in a bad idle even after the carbs were spotless etc.

Oh and if you put a new cap on cut about 1/4" off the coil wire just to freshen up the end but not to take so much off you make the wire too short. When you screw in the new one then try to get the screw to hit the center of the wire bundle and screw it down tight and roll/push the rubber seal back down.

Good luck.

Title: Re: poor spark
Post by JakeB on 03/13/08 at 12:47:29

3927252123241528263F2F4A0 wrote:

Oh and if you put a new cap on cut about 1/4" off the coil wire just to freshen up the end but not to take so much off you make the wire too short. When you screw in the new one then try to get the screw to hit the center of the wire bundle and screw it down tight and roll/push the rubber seal back down.

I was just about to suggest that. ;D

One time I was fixing a little four wheeler for someone and I was getting no spark at all, so at first I thought the coil was toast, but just shortening the lead by 1/4"-1/2" did the trick, and saved me some money too. :)

JakeB