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Message started by strangeling on 01/14/08 at 15:55:47

Title: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by strangeling on 01/14/08 at 15:55:47

Hey,

Has anyone replaced their horn with something different to OEM as I have gone through 2 OEM horns in 18 months ( they just stop working) and am looking for something that will last longer and sound louder ?

Thanks,

Glenn   :-[

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by demin on 01/14/08 at 16:00:00

Greg just posted about changing his ,he got from autoparts store.Looks almost the same only black.It's posted in the cafe under"Handyman's next project.
Try spraying some WD40 in it.Then try it.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by Paladin. on 01/14/08 at 16:42:02


5F585E4D424B494045424B1A1B2C0 wrote:
...replaced their horn with something different ... last longer and sound louder ?

http://savage.andruschak.net/Paladin/Horns.jpg

Totally lose the stock horn and mount.  Lose the front side reflectors (no legal requirement for them once the bike has been sold.)  Add a pair (high tone / low tone) highway car horns.  My claim to be 138 db.  A horn relay is a must to avoid toasting the horn button

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by J Mac on 01/14/08 at 17:31:04

I got one from JC Whitney that was supposedly a VW Beetle replacement.  It was close to the size of my original Savage horn and is pretty loud.  I was able to use the Savage bracket with it.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by YonuhAdisi on 01/14/08 at 17:35:56

I've been trying to figure out where and how to mount one of those antique sounding horns from autozone. You know, the ones that make that aahhhOoooga, sound?

Unfortunately, though the horn itself is easily found, It is rather large and I can't figure out where to mount it for best effect and where it won't be in the way of anything.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/14/08 at 19:24:16


4E7879627F56737E647E170 wrote:
 

Unfortunately, though the horn itself is easily found, It is rather large and I can't figure out where to mount it for best effect and where it won't be in the way of anything.


Get two,  one each side of the headlight...   ;D

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by YonuhAdisi on 01/14/08 at 19:29:20

You may be joking, but I don't think that is a bad idea. Thanks.  ;)

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/14/08 at 19:56:14

This horn replaced my stock one below my lower triple tree.  I found that the stock horn bracket actually had the same hole pattern as the headlight mount.  A little bending and there it went between the forks.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Horn_3.jpg

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/15/08 at 09:52:36


7640415A476E4B465C462F0 wrote:
You may be joking, but I don't think that is a bad idea. Thanks.  ;)


So.... here's another idea ...   ;D    Get one of those programmable air horn setup's, mount the trumpets around the headlight facing forward.....

Can you see the idiot cager when you give a blast of it..   :o

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by YonuhAdisi on 01/15/08 at 10:00:12

;D ;D ;D ;D

Yes, I do believe I could imagine the cagers' reactions.  ;) ;)

Title: Re: Horn Replacement
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/15/08 at 12:36:03

[quote author=262127343B3230393C3B326362550 link=1200354947/0#0 date=1200354947]Hey,

Has anyone replaced their horn with something different to OEM as I have gone through 2 OEM horns in 18 months ( they just stop working) and am looking for something that will last longer and sound louder ?

Thanks,

Glenn   :-[/quote]

Is the horn totally dead??   Sometimes you can tweat the adjuster screw on the back to bring it back to life.  Or,  make it a tad louder....  ;D

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - more problems
Post by strangeling on 01/15/08 at 14:42:43

OK something else must be wrong as I bought another horn today and when I first connected it the horn worked now it is not sounding again, but when I press the horn switch you can here a clicking sound coming from the horn.  I have no clue what the crap is going on and its frustrating the life out of me !   Any suggestions ?

T-mack maybe the horns aren't dead but I have adjusted the screw in the back of my horns and nothing but the clicking sound coming from them .

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Paladin. on 01/15/08 at 16:12:30

Wire - switch - horn.

If it is not the horn it has to be the wire or the switch.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by thumperclone on 01/15/08 at 16:14:11

1)was the screw/nut combo you adjusted painted with a line across them both ( for original tuning adjustment)if so adjust to the orginal marks (SNUG) and see if it works....
2)when using multi horns suggest 1 high tone 1 low tone for max effect and use a relay...

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by strangeling on 01/15/08 at 16:34:38

Thumperclone,

I have set the screw into the original position and still nothing except that little clicking sound almost like its trying to work !!!

Oh and the new horn is just a single universal style.

I checked the wiring from the switch assembly and also at the horn and it seems ok.  So maybe its the switch ???  Man if its the switch that sucks since it is only an 07 S40.

Thanks

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Max_Morley on 01/15/08 at 16:48:13

Does the horn work correctly when it supplied voltage directly from the battery? If so check the contacts in the horn switch for high resistance, or using DVOM see what the voltage is at the horn when you are trying to honk it. With the engine off it should remain above 12.0 volts and with the engine on about 13.5 V. Also make sure the ground is shiny clean and tight as voltage drop can occur there also.

FYI I've had air horn fitted and do like them for the attention the get when tooted. 1 st set was mounted inside a tool pouch with the ends cut out and sewed back up with mesh material, one horn outlet each way with the compressor mounted on the handlebars center and relay at the old horn location. 2nd version had the horn brackets hose clamped to the upper fork tubes between the triple trees. Lost this option when I went to the full fairing. Have a loud horn from one of the bike suppliers now in the stock location. Max

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/15/08 at 17:53:21

Since it's a '07,  it may just be a loose connection which isn't giving you enough juice to power it.

So, here's a quick lesson on horns.  

Unless it's a air horn or a motorized horn (aaahooga) , horns are basically vibrating plates that are moved by electro magnets.  Energize it and the magnet pulls in the plate, which opens up an internal switch to remove the power, which make the plate move back, which then closes the internal switch which moves the plates.... repeat & repeat & repeat super fast to make noise.   Not enough juice (amps) and not much noise out......

The wiring on bikes is a bit different then cars.  On most bikes, including the LS650,  the horn is not grounded to the frame.  Power comes from the fuse, through the horn, then goes to the handle bar switch which, when pushed, closes the circuit to a "ground" (the bars).

To test the horn,  disconnect it and put 12v across it.  Warning, might be loud......    If it works, then you will need to check the wiring.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/15/08 at 17:55:09

ohh  I see Max answered too.  Da.mn  I type too slow.....

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by strangeling on 01/15/08 at 18:41:29

Cool, thanks guys.

I'll eliminate one cause at a time. Tomorrow I'll hook the horn up to a 12v and see if that works. If it does I guess I'll check the wiring and for dirty connections. Hopefully its just one of these things. Normally it wouldn't be any urgancy to fix it but I need to get the horn working for my registration inspection.  :'(

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Trippah on 01/15/08 at 18:45:14

Isn't that what the AFLAC goose is for, when you can't work??  Good luck tracking down the gremlin.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/15/08 at 18:46:33

I would like to take this opportunity to state that I have a perfectly good stock horn for sale ;D

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by thumperclone on 01/15/08 at 21:27:50

i got a couple also but id never mention it here  ::)

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Paladin. on 01/16/08 at 04:12:39


3F383E2D222B292025222B7A7B4C0 wrote:
....I need to get the horn working for my registration inspection.  :'(

Bicycle Horn! (http://www.amazon.com/Disney-DP71237-Princess-Horn/dp/B000H0ZFBW/ref=pd_bbs_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1200485122&sr=8-3)

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/16/08 at 04:59:29


60515C5154595E300 wrote:
[quote author=3F383E2D222B292025222B7A7B4C0 link=1200354947/15#18 date=1200451289]....I need to get the horn working for my registration inspection.  :'(

Bicycle Horn! (http://www.amazon.com/Disney-DP71237-Princess-Horn/dp/B000H0ZFBW/ref=pd_bbs_3?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1200485122&sr=8-3)[/quote]
Beep beep.....

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by mpescatori on 01/17/08 at 04:51:36

If all you have is a little clicking, quite possibly the power across the horn switch isn't enough, i.e. the switch isn't powerful enough to feed the horn.
This is not unusual at all on old electrical systems.
Maybe the contacts are old and coated in oxide.
Maybe they're just fried.
maybe they're so old there's a hole burnt right through.
Happens.

May I suggest you renew the switch (open it, WD40 and itsy pliers to rebuild the contact area) and fit a relay, so that the switch feeds the relay, and the relay feeds the HOOORNS

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/17/08 at 04:54:57


4A564B534E5B4C5D5251505B3E0 wrote:
i got a couple also but id never mention it here  ::)

I didn't know that you were a collector.  Make me an offer  ;)

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/17/08 at 04:55:56

Is it a horn, yet?

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by strangeling on 01/17/08 at 17:25:56

Still no horn yet !

I checked and the horn itself is good, I have checked the wiring and cleaned the connections but still no sound.

Next I will try mpescatori's advice and see clean out the switch and with a bit of luck that will do it, but I'm not gonna get a chance to do that until next week. The bike registration will have to wait and I suppose its no big deal right now because its too cold and snowy to ride anyway.  >:(

Oh yeah so whats involved in setting up a relay and what kind is needed ? If I do that I might as well go real big on the sound and get myself a super cool horn.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Paladin. on 01/17/08 at 20:53:20

When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks.  Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact.  A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.

You want something like this. (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=RL38691&CategoryCode=3443)   Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.  

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/18/08 at 03:48:25


464147545B5250595C5B520302350 wrote:
Oh yeah so whats involved in setting up a relay and what kind is needed ? If I do that I might as well go real big on the sound and get myself a super cool horn.

Remember the word, "KISS"?  Buying a new horn won't fix the problem.  You'll still have to figure out what's wrong.  Do you have a meter?

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/18/08 at 03:52:09


10212C2124292E400 wrote:
When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks.  Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact.  A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.

You want something like this. (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=RL38691&CategoryCode=3443)   Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.  


Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery.  That way the horn is fused.  You can ground it to the frame anywhere.

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by thumperclone on 01/18/08 at 16:31:13


437661635B323134040 wrote:
[quote author=4A564B534E5B4C5D5251505B3E0 link=1200354947/15#21 date=1200461270]i got a couple also but id never mention it here  ::)

I didn't know that you were a collector.  Make me an offer  ;)[/quote]
not a collector just a pac rat...spring is comin goin have a garage sale!!! think i said that last year too!!!

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by thumperclone on 01/18/08 at 16:34:16


073225271F767570400 wrote:
[quote author=10212C2124292E400 link=1200354947/15#28 date=1200632000]When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks.  Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact.  A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.

You want something like this. (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=RL38691&CategoryCode=3443)   Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.  


Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery.  That way the horn is fused.  You can ground it to the frame anywhere.
[/quote]the switch closes the ground on stock harness right?
think thats how im reading the diagram..makes sense the load(horn) absorbs some or the in rush current(beep) so the sw contacts last longer...

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by thumperclone on 01/18/08 at 16:36:48


162334360E676461510 wrote:
[quote author=10212C2124292E400 link=1200354947/15#28 date=1200632000]When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks.  Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact.  A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.

You want something like this. (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=RL38691&CategoryCode=3443)   Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.  


Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery.  That way the horn is fused.  You can ground it to the frame anywhere.
[/quote]

Title: Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/19/08 at 07:00:35


213D203825302736393A3B30550 wrote:
[quote author=073225271F767570400 link=1200354947/30#30 date=1200657129][quote author=10212C2124292E400 link=1200354947/15#28 date=1200632000]When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks.  Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact.  A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.

You want something like this. (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=RL38691&CategoryCode=3443)   Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.  


Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery.  That way the horn is fused.  You can ground it to the frame anywhere.
[/quote]the switch closes the ground on stock harness right?
think thats how im reading the diagram..makes sense the load(horn) absorbs some or the in rush current(beep) so the sw contacts last longer...
[/quote]
On bikes, that is usually the exception to the rule, with one wire, rather than two, going to the horn button, and then a ground through the handlebar.

Keeps the harness size down going to the controls too.

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