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Message started by 1st2know on 12/30/07 at 15:24:36

Title: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 12/30/07 at 15:24:36

So, I'm just now re-assempling the bike after re-installing a brand spanking new head plug! Wow - I just love that new head plug smell!  

A few observations: It's fricking cold in Chicago!! What I've been doing to stay warm in my unheated garage is this: I would budget an hour to identify and twist bolts on my head cover - but before I actually start work, I would run an errand in my cage (groceries, beer run, etc). As soon as I park the cage back in the garage I would pop the hood an turn on my cheap box fan to blow the heat from my cage V8 towards "ground zero" - (the part of the garage that the Savaged has marked as her territory with 10w40).  

This warms the garage up about 10 degrees (F) - enough for me to work without gloves on.  After about three of these sessions, I was able to get the headcover off, clean the head, re-seal it and put 5 bolts in to hold the headcover down while the RTV cures. Cuz it's cold, I was going let the sealant set for about 3 days before I torque down the bolts and re-install the upper motor mount.

I've got the headcover on good, but I've only slightly wrench tightened 5 bolts down  (each corner, and the one up top). I did pat the headcover down with a rubber mallet until I got that "solid" sound.

Can the sealant set up when it's below freezing in the garage?  The Permatex instructions just said it will take longer to cure when colder, but did not list ideal tempature ranges.
I'm using Permatex 26B "Red".

Another observation: I used a spray gasket remover to get the old grey sealent off - works great, but this stuff is very caustic - I was holding the bottom of the head cover  with my left hand and my hand was laying in a puddle of this stuff - it burned like someone put a cigar out on my hand - no  injuries, but I'll be carefull not to store this stuff next to my spray deoderant :-)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by skrapiron on 12/30/07 at 15:31:01

The simplest thing to do is go to Lews or House Depot and get an inexpensive space heater.  Plug it in near where you are planning to work and enjoy the warmth.

As for the Permatex, it will cure in sub zero temps (I think it will all the way to below zero) but it will take a long time.

If the engine is out of the bike, carry it inside and let it set overnight just to be sure....

Seriously.  If you have electric in your garage, you should be running at least one heater......

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by demin on 12/30/07 at 15:45:07

That's the one thing I don't miss about the north.Love all that work just for that stupid cap.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by clueless on 12/30/07 at 16:48:37

I can relate to that. It doesn't get that cold here, but if I am forced to work in the storage building, I use a heater. It's small, so I usually work outside. True "shadetree" style.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Paladin. on 12/30/07 at 17:12:41

My only question is how do you know what it feels like to have a cigar put out in your hand?

$50 delivered, hook to the tank off your gas BBQ. (http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Propane-Tank-Top-MH12T/dp/B00005LEXJ/ref=pd_bbs_8?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1199061702&sr=8-8)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 12/30/07 at 17:45:49

Sweet. I hear propane is safer as it does not suck up all the O2 from the garage. The 29k  BTU model looks like it will fit in my garage.

I'm looking at several different heaters. I should probably put on myprofile "Cheap as he11". Being a cheapskate is one of my many personality flaws, and it's my favorite one  of them all (Just above "belly scratcher")  :-)

I was looking at these dual fuel torpedo burners - burns kerosene or diesel. Back in September I made 2 liters of diesel fuel from some corn oil, now I'm looking to leverage the waiste veggy oil in my area so I can be even cheaper.  These burners cost about $140 - the cost to convert discarded veg oil to biodeseil is about $1 a gallon.

I'm also trying to find a nice straight veg oil burner - I know veg oil burns - I've had 2 fried chicken dinners seasoned with fire extinguishers :-)

Noobs guide to making biodiesel: http://www.kitchen-biodiesel.com/

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by gj859 on 12/30/07 at 17:54:22

Anytime you burn anything oxygen is consumed, this heater is labeled for outdoor use, it does not have ODS oxygen depletion sensor. Don't want to lose anybody.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Reelthing on 12/30/07 at 18:22:03

Hum, that sealant does not/should not cure before you tighten the head down as your looking for a thin film is all - the sealant around the plug does need to before you start the bike I would think

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 12/30/07 at 19:08:15

Thanks for pointing that out - I should be OK - I only used a pencil line of sealant, and I did tighten the bolts down, however I did not use a torqe wrench - my torque  wrench only goes down to 10lbs.  :-(

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Gort on 12/30/07 at 20:37:41

Concerning a heater for your garage, I use a 'KeroHeat model CV2230' in my 2 car garage. I got it on sale less than a year ago, delivered for $125.00 off a dealer on the Internet.  At temperatures as low as 35 degrees, it will heat the garage comfortably enough for me to wear a sweatshirt and be warm.  I had to put a rubber door gasket around my garage door and close off any outside floor vents, and I stapled cheap plastic sheet to the ceiling rafters to close off the peaked ceiling, so as to stop the drafts and heat rising to the peaked ceiling.  It uses clear kerosene.  As for oxygen deprivation, you know well in advance that it is getting stuffy and you open up whatever door you have and let in some air.  It takes at least 5 hours for it to get a little stuffy.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Reelthing on 12/31/07 at 05:19:57


72303771282D2C34430 wrote:
Thanks for pointing that out - I should be OK - I only used a pencil line of sealant, and I did tighten the bolts down, however I did not use a torqe wrench - my torque  wrench only goes down to 10lbs.  :-(

pssst don't tell anybody but I don't use one either on those head cover bolts - I use a little shorty wrench about 3 inches long - those are very smooth machined surfaces that do not hold any oil presure - likely the bigger risk is too tight and twisting them off  

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by demin on 12/31/07 at 05:39:49

Or pull the threads out.That's what happened to the '87.The one that stripped went into an oil passage,and couldn't helicoil it on the bike.Off came the cylinder.About$120.00 later she's almost back together.hopefully today if Suzuki has the carb clamps.  
The topend has already been worked on.I can't imagine why anybody would have it apart already at 7,000 miles but it was.I think he overtightened every bolt.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 12/31/07 at 06:58:02


7D70222F231A0 wrote:
Anytime you burn anything oxygen is consumed, this heater is labeled for outdoor use, it does not have ODS oxygen depletion sensor. Don't want to lose anybody.

Very true.  The oxygen gets consumed just the same, but the biggest problem in a confined space is not a lack of O2, but an abundance of CO, which I believe actually settles near the floor...right where you are working on your bike.  Can you say, "odorless and tasteless"? :P

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 12/31/07 at 08:30:21

Another observation: With a nude eye, I could not see anything wrong with the old head plug. I suspect that what happens is the head expands and contracts many times, causing the plastic/rubber plug to deform.  

Would a plug made of aluminum be more reliable?  

Thinking about this, if I could have someone mill me an aluminum plug, with a groove to hold an o-ring, the aluminum plug would expand and contract at the same rate as the head. The o-ring would be the week point, and would probably have to be replaced every 20k or so.

If I have to go back in to fix this leak, I'm going to fix it just one more time - this plastic part does not give a lot of confidence.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Rockin_John on 12/31/07 at 08:55:03


4B7E696B533A393C0C0 wrote:
[quote author=7D70222F231A0 link=1199057077/0#6 date=1199066062]Anytime you burn anything oxygen is consumed, this heater is labeled for outdoor use, it does not have ODS oxygen depletion sensor. Don't want to lose anybody.

Very true.  The oxygen gets consumed just the same, but the biggest problem in a confined space is not a lack of O2, but an abundance of CO, which I believe actually settles near the floor...right where you are working on your bike.  Can you say, "odorless and tasteless"? :P[/quote]

Had an actual experience with one of those exact heaters, and our propane camp stove during the recent ice storm and power outage down here a couple of weeks ago.

Wife had been cooking on the stove for about an hour, and I had the radiant/catalytic heater running in the living room at the same time for a bit longer. Together the devices were producing maybe 25,000-30,000 BTU.

I felt the least bit dizzy, and mentioned it to the wife. Within a couple of minutes she was short of breath and her face color was changing (she's very prone to that anyways.) I figured our right away that it was Carbon Monoxide poisoning, and shut them off and threw the doors open for a while.

Surprisingly, with propane, unlike a vehicle exhaust, the deadly gas truly is "odorless and tasteless." And as I've since learned, you can go from our "dizzy and short of breath" symptoms to dead in a few minutes. So... DO be CAREFUL with those radiant propane space heaters in a well sealed enclosure like your home.

OTOH, The good thing about them is; I've used that same heater in my drafty old barn for years without an problem. And the nice thing about the radiant heater over a convection heater; is that it will warm you from 10-15 feet away, no matter what the air temp in the building is. Radiant heat warms the objects it radiates the heat too, and doesn't have to warm the whole building.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 12/31/07 at 09:30:51

Dying is something that I have to do, but I try to keep it on the bottom of my To Do list :-)

With my "V8" radiant heater, I can work in relative comfort, little risk of dying and I don't have to pay for the energy.  (me=cheap).  I have to use the car anyway, and, since 1/2 of the gas I use in the car goes to excess heat, I feel obligated to use that heat to my advantage.

So, rather than buy a heater and pay to run it, I can schedule my work around my cage bound errands. It takes a little planning ahead, but it's worth it to just to stick it to the energy bandits!

This idea so far works with an outside temp above 26F. Today I have an errand to run. I'm going to pick up a cheap thermometer while I'm out and take some measurments.

It'll be about 22F tommorow - I'll run a "test" errand to warm the car up and measure the insde garage temp. - look for my post.

I (heart) science!

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Reelthing on 12/31/07 at 09:42:04


32707731686D6C74030 wrote:
Another observation: With a nude eye, I could not see anything wrong with the old head plug. I suspect that what happens is the head expands and contracts many times, causing the plastic/rubber plug to deform.  

Would a plug made of aluminum be more reliable?  

Thinking about this, if I could have someone mill me an aluminum plug, with a groove to hold an o-ring, the aluminum plug would expand and contract at the same rate as the head. The o-ring would be the week point, and would probably have to be replaced every 20k or so.

If I have to go back in to fix this leak, I'm going to fix it just one more time - this plastic part does not give a lot of confidence.

did you have an old style or new?

the old one was more like a rubber coated empty cup - the new one is more like a rubber coated full cup

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 12/31/07 at 09:49:51


064443055C595840370 wrote:
Another observation:
Would a plug made of aluminum be more reliable?  

Thinking about this, if I could have someone mill me an aluminum plug, with a groove to hold an o-ring, the aluminum plug would expand and contract at the same rate as the head. The o-ring would be the week point, and would probably have to be replaced every 20k or so.

If I have to go back in to fix this leak, I'm going to fix it just one more time - this plastic part does not give a lot of confidence.

Interesting thoughts...

An aluminum plug might be doable with an o-ring...I think that someone else mentioned doing that sometime too.  Of course, then you have to deal with the effects of heat on the o-ring as well.  It's worth a shot if you have the resources.  I've often wondered about using some kind of expansion plug too.

I have a couple observations concerning the head plug/cap (which may be mentioned in the Tech section)...

- it seams that Suzuki doesn't mention using sealer on the plug/cap in the manuals, and so that when dealers are doing an initial service they don't use any either.  Along with that, I suspect that their mechanics while trying to do "timeclock" repairs, may not replace the plug or properly clean the sealing surfaces upon reassembly.  The plug may not even get seated well...this was the case after my spouse's first (and last) dealer service...

- when I do them I've had great success by doing a little better preparation and RTV sealer.  First, I thoroughly clean the hole and use a medium grit paper to rough up the inside surface.  Then using a thin film of the sealer on the plug (which has a shallow groove around it too), I reinstall the plug and wipe off any excess that squeezes out.  The roughened surface seems to allow the RTV to adhere better...

- The sealer may also compensate for an misshaped areas of the plug, but in the long run it is probably better to just buy a new one.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by demin on 12/31/07 at 12:23:48

Greg you just brought up a point.I couln't figure with 7,000 miles my topend had been worked on.Initial service.Whoever did do it they stripped about 4 bolts,when I took it apart it had helicoils in it already.The rest were about ready to strip.I had to put 2 more in. >:(

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by demin on 12/31/07 at 18:00:58

Project leaky head plug is done.'87 back up and running. [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif](finally)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Reelthing on 12/31/07 at 18:45:28

make a quick run around the block raise'n cain?

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by demin on 12/31/07 at 19:28:46

Oh yeah.Hurried up and put it back in the garage. ::)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Rockin_John on 12/31/07 at 22:00:48


25242C282F410 wrote:
Oh yeah.Hurried up and put it back in the garage. ::)



Looks like I'll get my turn at that plug sooner than planned on my old 87 the "Ox."

Yesterday, I did the weekly maintenance starting/running of all my non-use vehicles. After idling for about 10 minutes, and then having the throttle played with for a couple of minutes, it actually made its first drip from the cylinder fins onto the crankcase. Not a good sign.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by demin on 12/31/07 at 22:10:26

The '86 is leaking enough to make it wet,so I'm not screwing with it yet.Need to recover from the '87 nightmare.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Rockin_John on 12/31/07 at 22:30:22


06070F0B0C620 wrote:
The '86 is leaking enough to make it wet,so I'm not screwing with it yet.Need to recover from the '87 nightmare.


Lucky my #2 Savage (99 model) has had the top end done before, and shows no sign of leaks or any trouble yet. Hope it stays that way for a long time.  :)

Currently that is my whole "collection." But I've found one of the 650cc BMW singles that is very tempting. It's the street model with the single sided swingarm and belt drive! (F650CS?) 50HP and 17" Mag wheels on both ends! 8-)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 01/01/08 at 12:09:38

My bike is re-assembled - I took it for a test "idle" - I let it warm up for about 1/2 hour. No more plug leak, but, drat, now it's leaking worse near the spark plug cave. I suspect this is a "noob can't seal a headcover" issue and will take the head cover off, clean, re-seal, re-assemble. Practice makes perfect.  CRAP!

Good news! I also had a petc0ckish issue - looks to be the vacuum hose. The orginal vacuum hose and springy thing appeared to have gotten repeatedly smashed by the throttle on the carb! Turns out I have more throttle than I orginally thought. The throttle would bash the vac hose, and then smash the springy thingy, and that caused the vac hose to intermetently colapse.  

I've replaced the vac hose with a rubber fuel line. This allows me to route it in a way that does not cause smashing. My only concern now is that the hot, finned alluminum head may not like it's new neighbor and singe him. I added a vac cap to my tool kit just in case I have to bypass the vac hose. With the new route, the top end of the throttle feels correct, where as before it fetl that is was being constrained by a, um, um, a springy thing.

Is there something I can pour in my gas tank that removes, reseals, re-installs  and torques my headcover? :-)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by demin on 01/01/08 at 12:26:46

I had to do mine twice,because of stripped bolts.I had to remove the cylinder and all,to put Helicoils in.On the bright side(if there is such thing)it's easier the second time.Just took mine out for the second shakedown run.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 01/01/08 at 17:49:06

So, today it was 18f outside, 27f inside my garage. Using my "V8 Radiant Heater" (the warmed  engine block on my '98 Caddy), I was able to push the temp up to 35f in my work area. This is barely comfortable: Yes I could work, but grabbing cold wrenches sucked  the heat right from my hands. (Quick, someone go out and invent me a heated tool chest :-).

So, I would call the V8 Radiant Heater an "interesting experiment", but not a practical success. I could use this method to augment an electric space heater (along with the heated tool chest).

The thing that realy keeps me warm is SuzukiSavage.com and Greg's Photo CD. Ya see, if I can sit on my warm sofa with my toasty laptop on my lap, I can view the photos of the job, or read posts from other experts & noobs in comfort prior to heading out to the bitter cold garage. I was able to do a lot of the planning work inside - "Look Before You Leap" is much more meaningfull when I have to leap in to frigid  garage. And it's much easier to scratch my head with no hat & gloves on :-)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by verslagen1 on 01/01/08 at 19:02:45

get your self a hot plate and stack as many skillets as you got.  And throw all your tools in the top pot.  The mass will heat up the garage somewhat and your tools.  If the tools aren't warm enough, take a few pots out.   ;D

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/02/08 at 05:24:51


1C5E591F4643425A2D0 wrote:
So, today it was 18f outside, 27f inside my garage. Using my "V8 Radiant Heater" (the warmed  engine block on my '98 Caddy), I was able to push the temp up to 35f in my work area. This is barely comfortable: Yes I could work, but grabbing cold wrenches sucked  the heat right from my hands. (Quick, someone go out and invent me a heated tool chest :-).

So, I would call the V8 Radiant Heater an "interesting experiment", but not a practical success. I could use this method to augment an electric space heater (along with the heated tool chest).

The thing that realy keeps me warm is SuzukiSavage.com and Greg's Photo CD. Ya see, if I can sit on my warm sofa with my toasty laptop on my lap, I can view the photos of the job, or read posts from other experts & noobs in comfort prior to heading out to the bitter cold garage. I was able to do a lot of the planning work inside - "Look Before You Leap" is much more meaningfull when I have to leap in to frigid  garage. And it's much easier to scratch my head with no hat & gloves on :-)

Removing the headcover twice isn't as uncommon as you might think.  I've done it twice.  Once for a forgotten bolt and once for a broken bolt.  Maybe that was my inspiration for the CD (and a fascination with photography), but I'm glad that the CD helps with your "Look before you leap" planning...(and having a laptop works even better than a desktop too.)

Good luck on the next session.  Whenever you can thaw out your toolbox, that is :P

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/02/08 at 08:59:19

So after reading this thread for a few days I decided that it was time to check out my Aluminum Cap plug experiment. (see pict's below).   Well, looks like there has been a drop or two of oil out of it, in the 2K mile it's been in.  The acorn nut was a tiny bit wet but there is no trail of oil out of the recessed area.  Hmmmmm...... might be the oil ring I used.    I guess I'll get to take the head apart too...   Note: at 1K miles it was very dry.....  Also, the machinist used 1 1/4" round stock but he could have used 1 " and then he wouldn't have had to mill off sections so the oil could pass by.

As for the cold....one of the better things I did was insulate the garage.  Two cagers in the garage helps a lot.  This past summer we bought new insulated doors too.  Better seal keeps the wind out.  The other day, 35 deg out, the Kero heater (from the '80's) heated the 2 3/4 car garage up to 65 deg.

Here my experiment:
http://www.users.fast.net/~tommack/sm_100_1942.JPG


http://www.users.fast.net/~tommack/sm_100_1943.JPG

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/02/08 at 09:13:22

Ah, it was you.  Great job.

2 questions:

What's the purpose of threaded hole?

What if the o-ring groove was a little narrower?  Almost looks too wide.


Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/02/08 at 09:40:57

The threaded hole is so that you could put a bolt in and pull the plug out of the head easier.

Yea, the groove is cut for a fatter o-ring, but it stuck out too far to be able to be pushed into the hole.    Unfornately the lathe was already setup for another job when I found out.  Since my machinist friend didn't charge me anything for it, I didn't complain.    

I would like to get him to try again, this time with 1" round stock and  a better groove.  

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/02/08 at 09:44:11

Oh....  forgot to add, the plug sticks out of the hole enough so that it just clears the head cover.  It can't work it's way out.  Can't travel that far with the head cover on.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/02/08 at 14:27:44


5C2545696B6339080 wrote:
Oh....  forgot to add, the plug sticks out of the hole enough so that it just clears the head cover.  It can't work it's way out.  Can't travel that far with the head cover on.

That's a good point.

Just curious...what's the difference in the plug diameter and the hole?

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/02/08 at 19:53:24


7F4A5D5F670E0D08380 wrote:
[quote author=5C2545696B6339080 link=1199057077/30#33 date=1199295851]Oh....  forgot to add, the plug sticks out of the hole enough so that it just clears the head cover.  It can't work it's way out.  Can't travel that far with the head cover on.

That's a good point.

Just curious...what's the difference in the plug diameter and the hole?[/quote]

aaaaa....I'll have to measure.   I had my damaged head (journal) there and he took all the measurements from it.  I have a sliver of it, so it should be simple to borrow a mic and measure it.

 It should be noted that the old '01 head was machined deeper than the older head I got from the salvage yard. (reason for having a sliver)

It is a tight fit.  The o-ring (see pict) makes it a fair push to get it in.  Not a "stand on it" push, but also not a "pinky" push.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/02/08 at 21:27:36


1E67072B29217B4A0 wrote:
[quote author=7F4A5D5F670E0D08380 link=1199057077/30#34 date=1199312864][quote author=5C2545696B6339080 link=1199057077/30#33 date=1199295851]Oh....  forgot to add, the plug sticks out of the hole enough so that it just clears the head cover.  It can't work it's way out.  Can't travel that far with the head cover on.

That's a good point.

Just curious...what's the difference in the plug diameter and the hole?[/quote]

Not a "stand on it" push, but also not a "pinky" push.[/quote]

"Pinky" push...Oooooo  :o :o

Use any grease on the o-ring too?

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by T Mack 1 on 01/04/08 at 10:50:10


1E2B3C3E066F6C69590 wrote:


"Pinky" push...Oooooo  :o :o

Use any grease on the o-ring too?


I think I put a film/ skin of hi-temp permatex (copper'ish - orange stuff).  

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/04/08 at 11:23:39


0B72123E3C346E5F0 wrote:
[quote author=1E2B3C3E066F6C69590 link=1199057077/30#36 date=1199338056]

"Pinky" push...Oooooo  :o :o

Use any grease on the o-ring too?


I think I put a film/ skin of hi-temp permatex (copper'ish - orange stuff).  [/quote]
I do that on the regular plug.  Copperish-orange?  I use the high temp red...but of course, Suzuki recommends their own stuff :P

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by ls650v on 01/05/08 at 06:41:25

After I moved to Michigan I bought a kerosene heater for the garage.  I found that the combustion process produces water vapor that condenses on any cold metal surface.  I had water dripping off of the bike and car.  I have switched to an electric space heater to eliminate the problem.  Still find it extremely difficult to handle a cold wrench though.  I try to wear cheap canvas or jersey gloves when possible.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/05/08 at 08:03:49

My garage isn't heated either, but I use a 1500W space heater too.  Keeps it about 20 degrees above the outside.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Gort on 01/05/08 at 10:26:14

Many people here in Northern California use a small box shaped or pot belled wood stove in their garages.  They vent the flue pipe out the side of the wall or the roof.  If you can get free wood without any paint or coatings on it, this is a very effective, cheap way to toast a garage. I've been in a garage heated like this in 35 degree outside weather and it was so warm you could wear a t-shirt and still be warm yourself.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 01/05/08 at 16:11:57

Wood burning stove is a good idea. I can walk thru my alley on spring morning and collect enough fallen branches & such to heat my garage for the winter. The tricky part is the fluting. I have a loft(read junk storage) over my garage and the flute would have to pass safely thru that. Once thats installed, a good potbelly stove, positioned safely away from my growing collection of oily rags would be awesome.

Oil Leak Update: Hmm - you know that headcover bolt on top (L70) that we're 'sposed to remember to have in place when we put the head cover on? Well I did remember to put it in place, but, crap, forgot to tighten it - it wasn't even threaded. I had to remove the upper mount to get a wrench on it, and once tightened, my leak went awy. I am both happy and ashamed.

I cleaned up the engine, could not reproduce the oil leak (after 30 minutes of idle), and I have to say - a non-leaking, clean single cylinder engine is quit a beautiful hunk of aluminum. :-)

Speaking of aluminum - man, if I ever have to replace that plug again, I am going to follow T Mack 1's lead and make me an aluminum plug.  

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/06/08 at 06:44:54


0B494E085154554D3A0 wrote:


Oil Leak Update: Hmm - you know that headcover bolt on top (L70) that we're 'sposed to remember to have in place when we put the head cover on? Well I did remember to put it in place, but, crap, forgot to tighten it - it wasn't even threaded. I had to remove the upper mount to get a wrench on it, and once tightened, my leak went awy. I am both happy and ashamed.

I cleaned up the engine, could not reproduce the oil leak (after 30 minutes of idle), and I have to say - a non-leaking, clean single cylinder engine is quit a beautiful hunk of aluminum. :-)


Doesn't that make you feel stupid?  I hate it when that happens :P

The best part is a logical answer.  Especially since that bolt requires a gasket on it anyway.  Good job.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by 1st2know on 01/06/08 at 15:50:01

Stupid Noob - The Sequel

Heh - so, with the leak gone, and the petc0ck behaving,  I decided to take her for a test spin - about 8 miles. I did this at night, and she performed beautifully - no leak, not stalling - the job was a complete success.

So, the  next morning I grabbed some rags and am going to clean her up. Whoa! The tool kit cover was missing!  Here is what happened...To pull the spark plug to test for TDC, I needed the tool kit  spark plug wrench, so I took the kit out, left the door hanging, but not locked. When it's  hanging in its spot without a tool kit in there, it looks as if it's on correctly, so when I was checking the machine out before the ride, the toolkit door looked ok.

But, when I was riding it fell off - but where? Idunno! So I jumped on my bicycle and pedalled the 8 mile route that I took - no luck. On a whim, I rode the reverse of the route that I took and there it was - about 3 miles from home, only moderately smashed. It fell of the right side of the bike, and made its way to the oposite(left) side of 6 lane street and on the the sidewalk.

Why do motorcycle parts defy physics when they fall?  

I got it home, bent it back in to a rectangle, and was able to get it secured. The chrome is toast, and it's scratched up. I'm thinking of covering it with some thin polished diamond plate.

I spent most of the day familiarizing myself with all the fasteners makeing sure they we're all tight.

So, the next time I go out to by a new diagnostic tool for the garage, it's going to be a mirror to mount on the garage wall - whenever something is screwed up, all I have to do is look in to the mirror and I'll see where the problem started 8-)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by verslagen1 on 01/06/08 at 16:41:12

One of the 1st things I learned was not to point a finger and cast blame cause there are 4 more pointing right at yourself.

Painfull lesson you've learned, loosing the cover like that.  I had a similar lesson but for a different reason.  One basic rule that applies that I use for windows, if it's open fine. if it's closed it better be locked.  In this case, when you open it, lay it on the ground.  Makes it much easier to find that way when you forget to lock it.  An object at rest will remain at rest until someone trips over it.    ;D

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Trippah on 01/07/08 at 06:43:06

Ah shedding- it is the third course in the motorcycle enineer's Sophmore year.  Then, after they learn to design parts so they fall off, they study the ones you'll want to remove, learning how to position them so you have to remove at least five other things making the ten minute job a 4 hour agro.   ;)

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/07/08 at 08:22:11


72303771282D2C34430 wrote:
Stupid Noob - The Sequel

Heh - so, with the leak gone, and the petc0ck behaving,  I decided to take her for a test spin - about 8 miles. I did this at night, and she performed beautifully - no leak, not stalling - the job was a complete success.

So, the  next morning I grabbed some rags and am going to clean her up. Whoa! The tool kit cover was missing!  Here is what happened...To pull the spark plug to test for TDC, I needed the tool kit  spark plug wrench, so I took the kit out, left the door hanging, but not locked. When it's  hanging in its spot without a tool kit in there, it looks as if it's on correctly, so when I was checking the machine out before the ride, the toolkit door looked ok.

But, when I was riding it fell off - but where? Idunno! So I jumped on my bicycle and pedalled the 8 mile route that I took - no luck. On a whim, I rode the reverse of the route that I took and there it was - about 3 miles from home, only moderately smashed. It fell of the right side of the bike, and made its way to the oposite(left) side of 6 lane street and on the the sidewalk.

Why do motorcycle parts defy physics when they fall?  

I got it home, bent it back in to a rectangle, and was able to get it secured. The chrome is toast, and it's scratched up. I'm thinking of covering it with some thin polished diamond plate.

I spent most of the day familiarizing myself with all the fasteners makeing sure they we're all tight.

So, the next time I go out to by a new diagnostic tool for the garage, it's going to be a mirror to mount on the garage wall - whenever something is screwed up, all I have to do is look in to the mirror and I'll see where the problem started 8-)

Oops and Oops...

Crap happens, as they say.

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/07/08 at 08:23:26


312235342B2620222976470 wrote:
 An object at rest will remain at rest until someone trips over it.    ;D

That's one of Newton's Laws isn't it?  Or was it Murphy's?

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by Savage_Greg on 01/07/08 at 08:25:34


684E554C4C5D543C0 wrote:
Ah shedding- it is the third course in the motorcycle enineer's Sophmore year.  Then, after they learn to design parts so they fall off, they study the ones you'll want to remove, learning how to position them so you have to remove at least five other things making the ten minute job a 4 hour agro.   ;)

That's why I didn't go to that school.  Now I just take them off and sell them, so I don't have to put them back on. :P

Title: Re: Staying warm while fixing the plug leak
Post by verslagen1 on 01/07/08 at 08:58:04

Actually inspired by Newton's wife... 'You lazy lout, are you going to lay there all day?  Get out and do some work!'

It is widely thought that he was sitting beneath the tree, contemplating the meaning of the world when the apple struck his noggin'.  But he was actually raking leaves, thinking 'why doesn't that b!+(# leave me rest?'   ;D

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