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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1197695496 Message started by islandwahine on 12/14/07 at 21:11:36 |
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Title: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by islandwahine on 12/14/07 at 21:11:36 Holy Moley!! I guess this is what happens if I haven't logged in for a while!! The site changes! Guess I'm gonna have to get used to this now! Anyway, I'm finished with my bike, put everything back together, and started her right up again. I idled the engine for 10 minutes to start the curing process for the engine paint. It ran fine.... then after 10 minutes it just died. I got to start her up again but gas started pouring out of the carburetor valve. I figured maybe something got stuck in the valve or on the needle. Now it looks like the needle has a more pronounced ring on it (worn out). Do I have to buy the set (needle and valve) or does anyone know where to buy just the needle? Can the valve actually wear out? |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Kropatchek on 12/15/07 at 04:34:40 Check E-bay. There's a guy in New Zeeland that sells the complete unit for 15 ausie $ |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/15/07 at 05:39:22 Yes, you do. All that I've bought come as a set. Not a big deal to change...and it's probably just as well. BTW - sometimes, the floats and needle will get stuck if they are dry for a while and they will stay open when gas runs into the bowl. "Sometimes" you can tap on the bowl with the handle of a screwdriver and loosen them up and stop the gas flow. Just a thought for the next time this happens. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by islandwahine on 12/16/07 at 11:28:11 182D3A3800696A6F5F0 wrote:
As it turns out the float must indeed have gotten stuck, cause it runs fine now. I took the float bowl off, looked at the float, and noticed that one of the float thingies was almost touching the inside of the crab, so I bent it out a bit. I'm thinking maybe it must have gotten caught and couldn't move up enough to close the valve. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by islandwahine on 12/16/07 at 11:29:54 467F627D6C796E6568660D0 wrote:
Thanks!! I will check into that, got it working with the old set, but will need to replace it soon. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/17/07 at 05:07:38 How is your float level now that you adjusted it? |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by LANCER on 12/17/07 at 07:13:18 475D424F404A594F4647404B2E0 wrote:
Thanks!! I will check into that, got it working with the old set, but will need to replace it soon.[/quote] I may have one in the one of the carb parts boxes, but will have check to make sure it is the correct one for the stock carb. If so, you can have it for the shipping and a buck or two. Send me a PM so I don't forget to check ... I am away from home right now. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by islandwahine on 12/17/07 at 13:49:22 7B4E595B630A090C3C0 wrote:
It seems just fine at the moment! Runs great! I do need to ride it to the bike shop, cause I don't think I was able to tighten the rear wheel bolt, and the engine bottom mount bolts tight enough. I took the heat shield off and those bolts are really hard to tighten. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/18/07 at 07:24:10 3E243B36393320363F3E3932570 wrote:
It seems just fine at the moment! Runs great! I do need to ride it to the bike shop, cause I don't think I was able to tighten the rear wheel bolt, and the engine bottom mount bolts tight enough. I took the heat shield off and those bolts are really hard to tighten.[/quote] Takes 2 wrenches. Don't have them, or can't reach both sides at the same time? |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by islandwahine on 12/18/07 at 10:34:26 241106043C555653630 wrote:
It seems just fine at the moment! Runs great! I do need to ride it to the bike shop, cause I don't think I was able to tighten the rear wheel bolt, and the engine bottom mount bolts tight enough. I took the heat shield off and those bolts are really hard to tighten.[/quote] Takes 2 wrenches. Don't have them, or can't reach both sides at the same time?[/quote] I do have 2 wrenches, I clamped one on the low side touching the ground, so It couldn't move once I started to turn the bolt on the other side. The trouble is that I end up standing on the other wrench and kind of jump on the wrench to get it to move. It still leaks a tiny bit of oil from the bolt on the left side, which I guess means that it is not tight enough yet. I'm afraid to over tighten it, so I figure I'll go to the bike shop where they have a wrench that tells them how tight is is. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by verslagen1 on 12/18/07 at 11:19:32 If I remember right, you're 110# If you use a 6" wrench and stand on it, the torque will be 55ftlbs. Just about right I'd say. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/18/07 at 11:26:32 6F7C6B6A75787E7C7728190 wrote:
The head nuts aren't that tight, but she doesn't weight enough to tighten the primary gear nut :P |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by verslagen1 on 12/18/07 at 11:31:32 I thought she was talking about the footpeg mounting plate bolts. You know the ones going all the way though and requiring 2 wenches. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by islandwahine on 12/18/07 at 13:37:50 362532332C2127252E71400 wrote:
Yes I was!! The bolt that goes all the way through, but that also holds the first heat shield in place, and the pedal. There is a little bit of oil dripping from the bolt on the other side of the bike. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/19/07 at 07:51:28 253621203F3234363D62530 wrote:
She was...I was just thinking that the "stand on the wrench" technique might might have some limitations unless she decides to bulk up :P |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/19/07 at 07:55:47 58425D505F55465059585F54310 wrote:
Yes I was!! The bolt that goes all the way through, but that also holds the first heat shield in place, and the pedal. There is a little bit of oil dripping from the bolt on the other side of the bike.[/quote] IS it dripping or WAS it dripping? Seems like it should stop. Did you ever buy that "breaker bar"? Do you have sockets? If you have a longer handle, you can tighten it more. You sure it isn't coming out of the drain plug? |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by T Mack 1 on 12/19/07 at 10:31:38 0A100F020D0714020B0A0D06630 wrote:
Yes I was!! The bolt that goes all the way through, but that also holds the first heat shield in place, and the pedal. There is a little bit of oil dripping from the bolt on the other side of the bike.[/quote] When you painted the bike, I thought I read that you painted it with the engine in place. Another thing to think about, the crankcase is held together by a myriad of other smaller bolts. Did you loosen them while painting?? I'm thinking it might be something else |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by SavageWahine on 12/19/07 at 10:43:41 146D0D21232B71400 wrote:
I did not loosen any smaller bolts, I just taped and covered everything off. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by T Mack 1 on 12/19/07 at 10:58:29 Is there oil on anything other than the left side bolt? Maybe on the underside of the engine...... When you degreased, did you remover any of the sealer (silicon sealer?) on the seems? |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by SavageWahine on 12/20/07 at 22:32:44 No, the oil comes only from the bolt, it started dripping slowly, right after I removed the heat shield. It's not really dripping, it forms a drop every few hours, and then drips down. I haven't checked it today, I'll check it in the morning. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by T Mack 1 on 12/21/07 at 13:43:29 So, if you can't find any other location for the leak like the oil filter housing, then buy some cardboard & some Cat litter. The leak at the crankcase (CC) seal is fix-able, but a real real real real pain. Drive it till it needs tear down..... See pict of the left side CC. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by SavageWahine on 12/21/07 at 17:56:33 Sooooo........, sorry to ask, but that whole area is filled up with oil? Isn't there a gasket between the two halves? So if oil is dripping out of bolt there might be a little crack in the gasket? Or maybe I did indeed not tighten it enough. Hmmmm. Well drip is very little, not to worried right now. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by T Mack 1 on 12/21/07 at 20:47:31 2C3629242B2132242D2C2B20450 wrote:
Oil only partially fills the case. Think about the site glass.....then think where it would be on the picture.... There is no gasket......only sealant. To re-seal , you have to tear it apart, clean & dry it then reseal and pop it back together. But, Since you have to remove the jug, you should do a hone on it and get new rings, .....see why it's a pain...... :P |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/22/07 at 07:18:50 I imagine that the bolt in question goes through the case here. I would clean the bottom of the engine thoroughly and watch it closely to see where it starts. Being an optimist, my guess is that the whole thing is just some residual oil that dribbled down the case to the lowest point after all the work you've done to the bike. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Crankcase_Bolt_Left.jpg |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by LANCER on 12/22/07 at 12:20:22 272A25282E39797C4B0 wrote:
Thanks!! I will check into that, got it working with the old set, but will need to replace it soon.[/quote] I may have one in the one of the carb parts boxes, but will have check to make sure it is the correct one for the stock carb. If so, you can have it for the shipping and a buck or two. Send me a PM so I don't forget to check ... I am away from home right now.[/quote] I do not have the part you needed, sorry. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by SavageWahine on 12/22/07 at 17:37:43 4E434C4147501015220 wrote:
Thanks!! I will check into that, got it working with the old set, but will need to replace it soon.[/quote] I may have one in the one of the carb parts boxes, but will have check to make sure it is the correct one for the stock carb. If so, you can have it for the shipping and a buck or two. Send me a PM so I don't forget to check ... I am away from home right now.[/quote] I do not have the part you needed, sorry.[/quote] That's OK, it's actually running great at the moment! Thanks for checking! |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by SavageWahine on 12/22/07 at 17:40:04 093C2B2911787B7E4E0 wrote:
That is the correct hole! There is absolutely no oil on the bottom of the engine, cause I de-greased and painted it. It is definitely coming out of the hole where the bolt comes out. But like I said, its minimal, and I'm not gonna worry about it right now. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/23/07 at 06:58:54 Need to change the title of this topic now :P |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by verslagen1 on 12/23/07 at 17:31:34 Well, when I was helping to kick start a BSA twin at 6am for a Barstow to Vegas run on a colder than a witches #$# morning, I had to hold on to the frame to get enough heft to be able to kick her over. This was so the guys with the heft built in could catch their breath. It was fun watching my out of breath brothers trying wheeze in enough air to laugh, nearly killed them. 1st time I tried nearly launched myself over the handlebars ;D I know SW is a smart wahine, and if she can't do it, she knows a menehune that can. ;) |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/24/07 at 08:55:35 7A697E7F606D6B69623D0C0 wrote:
Hell, I know. You'd think that letting gravity do the work would make it easier, but not a chance...and I remember a few folks complaining that the Savage didn't have a kick starter. Ya right, and I'd like to be 20 years younger too. I had enough trouble getting a 250 Honda to run last summer. Dam near had to de-fib after each attempt ::) |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by SavageWahine on 12/24/07 at 16:50:33 52415657484543414A15240 wrote:
Can do what? Menehunes are indeed useful, but unfortunately they've never done the dishes for me, and they have a tendency to act more like those gremlins that most people have a bell on their bike for!! |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by SavageWahine on 12/24/07 at 16:51:22 7E4B5C5E660F0C09390 wrote:
Hell, I know. You'd think that letting gravity do the work would make it easier, but not a chance...and I remember a few folks complaining that the Savage didn't have a kick starter. Ya right, and I'd like to be 20 years younger too. I had enough trouble getting a 250 Honda to run last summer. Dam near had to de-fib after each attempt ::)[/quote] Hmmm, why would we need a kick starter? |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by verslagen1 on 12/24/07 at 20:29:00 0A100F020D0714020B0A0D06630 wrote:
The morning after skiing, I need a kick to get me started. Nothing colder than a mamoth condo floor. ;D |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by verslagen1 on 12/24/07 at 20:33:28 0B110E030C0615030A0B0C07620 wrote:
Can do what? Menehunes are indeed useful, but unfortunately they've never done the dishes for me, and they have a tendency to act more like those gremlins that most people have a bell on their bike for!![/quote] I heard tell that the menehunes did good deeds. Perhaps, with all the mainlanders there a few gremlins came over and taught them a few bad tricks. |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Savage_Greg on 12/25/07 at 05:47:50 5349565B545E4D5B5253545F3A0 wrote:
Hell, I know. You'd think that letting gravity do the work would make it easier, but not a chance...and I remember a few folks complaining that the Savage didn't have a kick starter. Ya right, and I'd like to be 20 years younger too. I had enough trouble getting a 250 Honda to run last summer. Dam near had to de-fib after each attempt ::)[/quote] Hmmm, why would we need a kick starter?[/quote] In a way, the conversation is waxing nostalgic over the memories of using a kick starter a few decades ago. Electrical systems weren't nearly as sophisticated and kick starters were the way. My 1980 XS850 had both, but in 10 years of ownership I probably used the kick starter 5 times. Now-a-days, a kick starter would be an alternative for the occasional low battery situation, but it might be a real bear to use without a way to operate the decompression lever manually... Why would we NEED a kick starter? I dunno :P |
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Title: Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? Post by Digger on 07/11/08 at 21:41:38 0035222018717277470 wrote:
I for one would like to have a kickstarter on my Savage and my KLR650s. I had kickstarters on my '75 Suzuki GT750 and my '77 Yamaha XS750S. Used 'em all the time. If it took more than one kick to start, hot or cold, I knew I needed to reset timing and change the plugs. I miss my kickstarters! |
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