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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> fork oil /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1189894529 Message started by bill67 on 09/15/07 at 15:15:29 |
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Title: fork oil Post by bill67 on 09/15/07 at 15:15:29 does the fork oil drain if you take out bottom small screw like in older bikes |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by WD on 09/15/07 at 15:19:18 No. You need to drop the forks out of the trees, pul the springs out and let the forks sit over a drip pan for a day or so to get all of the old oil out. I refilled mine with Dexron ATF, feels better than the factory fork oil ever did. -WD |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by islandwahine on 09/15/07 at 18:11:05 That part is fairly easy to do! Don't forget to loosen the hex nuts on the turn signal stem/post (whatever they call that thing). Lucky you don't need to take the fork apart! (Feels pretty good knowing what you guys are talking about!! hope you don't mind me giving a little "advice".)LOL |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/15/07 at 22:25:17 WD wrote:
Seems that some tubing & a vac pump would make drawing the oil out easy enough. That should get 80+%, then, a long piece of tubing attached to a blower should be able to blow the remaining oil uo the inside of the tubes. Some mopping out with non lint type rags on non marring probes, say, wooden dowells, slotted to accept rags, tied with soft brass. I bet I could empty the forks & never drop them off the triple tree & be done in way less thaN a day. But, I do have a compressor. I can make a vacuum on tubing by running a piece of 1/8th tubing thru one wall, & pointing the exit out of the larger tubing, when the air leaves, it creates a low pressure area in the tubling, creating a slight suction. |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by barry68v10 on 09/16/07 at 04:17:45 Anybody remember how much the Suzi takes? |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by Savage_Greg on 09/16/07 at 06:30:22 bill67 wrote:
There is no bottom small screw like on older bikes... barry68v10 wrote:
Gotta get a manual, Dude...but I got pictures. Personally, I don't take short cuts or try to save a buck with fluids. Therefore, I wouldn't use ATF in my bike or the ones I repair. I can just imagine what a customer would think, if I did that too. I go by the book. I recently changed the fork oil in my spouse's bike. It was interesting because the factory "fish oil" that came out was a different color in each fork. Must be different sides of the assembly line :P Anyway, the book says 441 ml per fork and that you should measure it after pouring it in (75 mm from top of fork tube). The is a special tool to do that but I used a pair of calipers, and found there wasn't much difference. The trick would be to just work out all the old oil as best as you can...it'll be real close if you do. Stand the forks in an oil pan (yes, remove the wheel first) and go do something else for 15 minutes. Good enough. Add oil and start reassembly... In this photo, I show the old oil. Compare that to how the new fork oil looks...and yes, the forks do feel better. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Fork_Oil_Measure.jpg And to round out this discussion...check your springs. Chances are that they will be in the service limit because there is about 1/2" of tolerance (see the upper right corner?). Make sure to install the wider spaced coils first on reassembly. Hope that helps...now go to Amazon and get a manual :P http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Fork_Spring_Measure.jpg |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by islandwahine on 09/16/07 at 10:34:28 I think Clymers said 15 weight, but they only sold 20 weight here at the dealer, so that's what ended up in my forks. Feels real good though! |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by WD on 09/16/07 at 11:00:53 I let mine drain overnight because the oil was really contaminated. A lot of fine particulate matter in it. The more of that that came out, the longer the fork assembly will last. Mine also had what looked like manufacturing debris in the oil, some aluminum dust and a couple steel chips. According to the lubricants rep that serviced our shop, Dexron ATF and 15 weight fork oil are the exact same thing. Fork oil just costs more. He did caution against using Type F ATF or the older Chrysler ATF, as they will dissolve the lower oil seals (incompatible rubber formula). With both the book and the rep saying ATF is acceptable, I figured it was worth a try. Mine will be getting a springer or girder front end in the next couple years anyway. It will be interesting to see how the forks hold up with an ATF fill versus the factory fork oil. For the time being, they are working better than new. -WD |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by islandwahine on 09/16/07 at 13:47:39 You said you had debris in the oil? How are your seals holding up? Would be a shame to have to do this all over again if your seals are damaged. |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by WD on 09/16/07 at 15:06:29 No more leaks. I didn't change upper or lower seals, so must have had something lodged in there that came out during the fluid change. I'm not going to sweat it. -WD |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by bill67 on 09/16/07 at 15:26:20 i have a clymer manual its says the is a drain screw at bottom of fork but there isnt it would be easyer to turn the hold bike upside down and let the oil drain i used to change fork oil ever year iguess i want now |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by Savage_Greg on 09/16/07 at 15:28:38 bill67 wrote:
Clymer says that? Cool. It only takes a couple hours to do. No big deal if you have a manual. |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by WD on 09/16/07 at 16:22:24 Good old Clymers manuals... :-X You'd think they would at least check the parts before putting something in the book. I wish the forks had drain screws, but, pulling them isn't that hard. I didn't even pull the wheel first. -WD |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by Savage_Greg on 09/17/07 at 06:57:38 I looked at the issue of a drain screw when I did my spouse's bike. Nothing big. Drill bit, a 4mm tap, screw and fiber washer... But then I didn't do it because it would need to be a complete disassembly. Be best to wait until I need to change the slider bushings...:( |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by islandwahine on 09/17/07 at 11:05:23 Savage_Greg wrote:
So you basically made a drain? And the plug holds up to the pressure? Pretty good! Smart thinking! |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by bill67 on 09/17/07 at 11:30:05 what would happen if you drill in there now would you hit someithing i drilled the top fork bolts on my 74 suzuki and tapped and made air forks |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by islandwahine on 09/17/07 at 12:03:01 Oh that's what you did! Well, with air forks you sure save some money on fork oil, that stuff ain't cheap! But what happens if you have some sort of leak? Will the forks just collapse? |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by bill67 on 09/17/07 at 12:21:32 island you still have the spring and same amount a oil you use only about 5lbs of air to make it stiffer if you want |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by Savage_Greg on 09/17/07 at 14:13:18 You guys are humorous. No, I didn't drill it because there IS "stuff" in there, and I didn't drill it because I didn't want to LEAVE "stuff" in there, either. I would need the slider tubes completely off, and that requires knocking the bushings out. Older bikes, and maybe newer ones too (BMWs?), have little drain screws. We just don't and have to dump out the forks instead. |
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Title: Re: fork oil Post by Savage_Greg on 09/17/07 at 14:16:22 islandwahine wrote:
No, the springs will still hold you up. The oil just keeps your teeth in your head. |
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