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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> HELP! Stuck already /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1188682731 Message started by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 14:38:51 |
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Title: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 14:38:51 HELP!! I'm stuck already! I removed the fender, tire and caliper. Then I got confused, the suggestions in the tech section said to loosen fork cap on top and remove fork. --------------------------------------------------------------- Put a jack under the bike and remove the fr. wheel and fr. fender. Unscrew the top fork caps. Remove one of the forks. -------------------------------------------------------------- Well nothing is moving! The manual said to loosen up the Allan bolt underneath first. So I thought I'd do that, but had no idea I needed an Allen wrench that big! I'm gonna run to the hardware store, what size Allan wrench do I need to get?? |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 15:30:15 Got the Allen wrench, hope I'm doing the right thing in removing it! |
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Title: Re: Stuck already Post by slavy on 09/01/07 at 15:30:37 First thing, losen the 2 fork caps, using a box-end wrench. After that losen one of the lower triple tree bolts. Spray a little WD-40 in the crack between the lower triple tree and the fork and now You should be able to hold the fork cap with the wrench and spin the fork leg with the other hand. In one moment the shiny part will slide out . You might have to push on the cap from underneath to pull it out, because there is a rubber O-ring that will resist . If You losen the clamp bolts first, You will not be able to losen the fork caps. When installing- first push the fork all the way UP. After that tighten the clamp bolts . The fork caps are last. |
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Title: Re: Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 16:24:57 slavy wrote:
lower triple tree bolts?? Is that the bolt on the bottom triangular thing that holds the fork? I did remove the fork caps first, that was the easy part! According to the manual I need to remove the screw underneath the turn signal. That's quite impossible at the moment because it was so stuck I shredded the head! I did remove the Allan bolt on the tree thing. I'll try the WD40 now, because that shiny thing sure is stuck! So why do I need to remove the Allan bolt underneath the bottom of the fork? I am not able to do this, utterly stuck! Also I don't quite get why you mean, you said, "First thing, loosen the 2 fork caps." but then you say, "now You should be able to hold the fork cap with the wrench and spin the fork leg with the other hand." Didn't I just loosen those? (actually I took them off). Was I supposed to tighten them again after? Also I don't quite understand what you mean with: You might have to push on the cap from underneath to pull it out, because there is a rubber O-ring that will resist . Push what cap , and where from underneath? |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by demin on 09/01/07 at 16:58:26 No once you get the cap nuts loose(ones on top of forks)you need to get the pinch bolts loose.(those are the ones sorta at the base of the turn signals,big allen head that go through that triangle piece a.k.a. triple tree)once you get those loose,shoot your wd40 around fork tube and lower triple tree.You may have to work them around a little bit might be corroded in. ;) I'm tryin' to help ya. ;D |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by Max_Morley on 09/01/07 at 17:05:58 The caps are the 24 (I think) MM hex units that sit on top the top triple tree (yes you are correct, the triangular shaped parts are triple trees). I think the axle nut wrench in the tool kit fits it. Your upper shock tube sits against a shoulder machined in the upper one and is clamped in place by that large threaded nut. It is also held in place by the clamping action on the lower triple tree. I usually remove only one tube at a time, be careful as the oil will drain out if you let the upper end get too low until it is over a pail/pan. It has to slide down out of both triple trees before you can get it out. I usually drain it and then invert it on the sharpened end of a broom handle to keep the inner part from spinning. The bolt you will turn with the allen wrench is held in place with loctite also so breaking it loose will be difficult. The the rubber boot comes off, the snap ring (retaining ring - use a screwdriver tip to push one of the ends toward the shinny tube and lift it up and the ring will wind out careful don't sctratch the tube) then pull (this means yank it a couple three times at least and it will pull the seal - you will need some help or vice for this part) the inner tube out of the outer tube and the seal will be removed. Clean all parts in solvent or whatever you have available. There will be lots of gray sludge in the bottom of the outer tube to clean out. Once it is out. reassemble the inner and outer tube using some lock tite on the threads after you have cleaned them with brake clean or alcohol. slide the seal down and using a hammer and flat tip punch carefully work it down a little at a time until it is seated and you can reinstall the snap ring and dust seal. Seal lip goes dwon toward the fluid and part # goes up. I usually put the inner tube back in place and then tighten the lower clamp. Then add the required amount of fluid. 447 ml per leg of 15 W according to my notes last time I did it. Reinstall the spring, washer and spacer and ever so carefully so as to not cross thead the big retaining nut - re install it. One done and on to the next. If you get stuck and want to call my number is 509-764-5593 PDST as the Savage Tech is camping this weekend. Max |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by Max_Morley on 09/01/07 at 17:16:47 Turn signals have to be loosened for the tube to go through them. once the lower clamp is loose you should be able to turn the tube for better access to the lamp clamp bolt. PS, if all else fails, bolt it all back together and try again another time. I made a special tool to hold the inside bottom nut. Do you have access to a bench vise and someone with an air impact wrench? If so I could mail you the tool with a promise to return it and it will be much easier to get the fork tube apart. Max |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 17:27:17 I got it!! Thanks guys, I just got back after finally figuring out that there was a little Allan bolt on the turn signal that I needed to loosen up!! I guess I should have asked earlier what a pinch bolt was. I did not want to damage the cap threads but I screwed them back in to almost 1/4 inch, and then I lightly tapped down on the cap )after putting a ton of WD-40 in the cracks and sure enough, the darn tube slid down!! I took the whole thing out and poured it into a pan so I know how much new oil to put back in. A shiny cylinder tube and washer and long spring came out, and the oil of course! I have a woodworking bench with wooden block clamp, I figured I can clamp the fork and try and tap the ALAN loose. I'm going to read all of your guyses instructions about 20 times until I've got it figured out what you mean. If I have any questions I'll holler! |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by demin on 09/01/07 at 17:32:08 Sorry forgot about turnsignal clamps.Mine are gone |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 17:34:15 demin wrote:
Wished I'd waited for your answer. I was too impatient!! Have to do this before all the hardware stores close! And I'm stubborn, like to figure things out on my own, and get pissed of I cant'! >:( Your help is much appreciated though!! Thanks |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 17:38:23 Max_Morley wrote:
Thanks a bunch Max!! I'm going to see if using the bench vise will make it feasible for me to remove the Allan bolt. You said alcohol is good for using as a cleaning agent? What exactly is loctite? Do they sell it at a hardware store? |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by demin on 09/01/07 at 17:39:57 Anytime ;D |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by T-Mack1 on 09/01/07 at 18:59:10 islandwahine wrote:
Loctite is a chemical that helps lock the thread. It "reacts" under pressure so it stays liquidy for long time till it gets squeezed. They make several versions. Super glue strength to "remove-able". I'm not sure which would be applicable here...... And yes good hardware stores carry it. Also some Auto stores. |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by Max_Morley on 09/01/07 at 20:37:24 Re locktite. Many Auto Parts stores will have a little squeeze pac display (like a lens cleaner or hand cleaner you get with ribs) , you only need a drop so no need to buy the bottle, stick or gel size unless you need to as it isn't cheap. You want the red stuff, but blue will probably do in a pinch. I like to use Stoddard solvent but it is hard to find in most places now. Used to be in the good old days we had it it the gas station tanks along with the various oils we but in bottles to fill the oil burning leaking vehicles. I get it now at CENEX a large farm supplier. !!! Please do not use gasloine !!! Aerosol Brake cleaner from the parts store will work but you may want to wear rubber gloves and make sure it doesn't spray back onto you or the wind blow it your direction. Try to get the non-clorinated kind, but either will do. Put the required amount of fluid in, 447 ml, not necessarily what you took out as some may have leaked out or the PO (previous owner) may have overfilled it. Also some may stay inside until you separate the inner and outer tube and shock parts. There is a measurement down from the top also, but when I did mine recently, the 447 put it very close. I have a beaker I use for measuring, one of the glass measuring cups will work until you drop it. Remember a little of the oil will cling to the side of the cup so maybe start at 450 and you'll be OK. As it comes apart try to lay the parts out in order on newspaper or shop rags as you go, clean them and then put on a clean paper in the same order. Makes it easier and quicker to get it back together correctly. When you start assembly, use the broom handle again to center the retainer that the allen bolt screws into. It wants to move off to one side. Have good flashlight handy if you need to peer down the hole to line it up. Again, call before you get so flustrated you break something. Max |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 20:55:41 Max_Morley wrote:
Hi Max, I cheated! :-* I took the forks to the motorbike shop and asked the guy there if he could please remove 2 bolts for me. I think he said sure before he realized what bolts I was talking about. He was really sweet though and explained to me what was going on and what went where and such. I got lucky it was a quiet day for the shop and he was just fidgeting on his old 74 Harley. I offered to pay but he didn't want any money, so I ended up buying the Honda version of locktite, and indeed some brake cleaner which he recommended (that was before I got your message). Everything is cleaned and laid out in order. I do know now why the seal was leaking! Those locking rings were totally rusted out. The inside of the grove that they fit in was filled with rust and I had to "carve" the rusty pieces out of it. The brake cleaner worked real well in resolving the stuck on rust. Now what happened because of the rust, is that I have pinpricks of rust on the fork (the shiny part that slides up and down)! I guess that's what ruined the seal. How do I get my fork smooth again without damaging it? I did use some 3x steel wool for chrome parts on the frame that removed the rust without scratching it, can I do the same for the fork? Thanks for giving me the choice to call you, I'd hate to bug you though, especially on a holiday weekend! |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by Max_Morley on 09/01/07 at 21:24:04 I'd say you did very well. I think you are on the right path with the fine steel wool and just smoothing the edges of the pits and being sure there are no chrome blisters that will cut the new seal. Either replacement or rechroming are the options for permanent cures. My first set were ruined by hard bugs and I got some diver suit like material for dirt bike gators and they did fine with those. 2nd set were a combination of no gaters after I put on the fork brace and the fork brace holding the forks slightly different than they were before. This time I used some of those old style gaters like English bikes had and hope they keep the bugs off. It is dry here in Eastern WA so I don't have the rust problem you would have in HI. Was homeprted there back in the early 60's and we were constantly chipping and painting what rusted in the engine room. Pressure washers are also hard on those seals as they force the grit down under the protector boot. Might want to lift the boots every couple months and check for rust accumulation. WD 40 (Water Dispersant try # 40) works well as does a CRC product you can get at the ahrdwarre or parts store. No worry about a call, we are retired so everday is a Saturday, our kids are coming from MD and AK for a visit so we should be home. max |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/01/07 at 21:27:20 Thanks Max, have a great day with the kids tomorrow! I think I'll call it quits for today and start putting it back together tomorrow. |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/02/07 at 17:20:50 Wow, almost done! put all the pieces back together. The wooden rod tapered down with an exacto knife worked great to keep the inner gadget from spinning. And the PVC pipe was great for tapping the washer and seal in the fork! Thanks a bunch guys!! I ended up cleaning the outside of the engine while I could reach it. The oil from the seal had splattered all over the front, and it was pitch black. Now if oil starts showing up I know it's not the seals. Lets just hope it doesn't I'm tired already!! Now I have to fill the forks with oil and slide them back in. I sure hope I don't accidentally hold on to the bottom part and have the oil spill all over the top!! |
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Title: Re: HELP! Stuck already Post by islandwahine on 09/02/07 at 17:53:27 How long does the oil need to settle before inserting the long spring? It just seems awfully full too me!! |
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