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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Filter Plate Problems /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1187574813 Message started by NDBiker on 08/19/07 at 18:53:33 |
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Title: Filter Plate Problems Post by NDBiker on 08/19/07 at 18:53:33 I'm sure this has been answered in the past, I've just been unable to find it. I'm changing my oil for the first time. Got the plug out, wsa a little over torqued, had to take a hamer to the wrench. I'm haveing the same problems with plate covering the filter. I stripped two allen wrenches while takeing a good chunk of skin from my hand (don't ask) and I'm at a loss. Is there any advise out there. Any would be apreciated. |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by Max_Morley on 08/19/07 at 19:23:16 Time for a hand held 3/8 impact driver with a high quality mm bit. It will help seat the bit in the allen head and the force from the hammer blow will help to loosen the grip the threads have. These do not have to be that tight, I use a cycle t-handle allen wrench to loosen and tighten mine. If you strip the allen heads out, you'll have to drill the heads off, or try one of those broken bolt removers that fit a reversing eletric drill. If you drill the heads off you can remove the filter retainer and then turn the bolts out with a small vice grip. Max |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by slavy on 08/19/07 at 20:49:59 Before You use the impact driver, find a good piece of round iron/You might use a socket extension/ and smack the heads of the questionable bolts 10 times each. Don't be afraid- just think about the skin that You lost. The heads will smash amd the rounded hex opening will "shrink". After that , take a good allen socket , smack it in, so it will inbed in the already small hex of the head. After that use the impact driver. |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/20/07 at 01:22:31 If you dont want to go for the tool first, you can try this. With a small 1/4 drive deep socket & extension over the long end of the allen wrench, put some pressure on the thing, trying to loosen it, but dont try real hard, just enough to flew the allen wrench a bit. Then, lightly start tapping on the socket, open your fingers & hold down on the extension & it should flex & slap your hand with each tap of the hammer. If you have a light hammer, like a body hammer, that would be great. Or, a 10 inch long 1/2 extension should do it. The idea is to increase the pressure just a bit, feeling of it, since you already know what stripping one feels lie, you know when to quit. Working the heads to close them up is a great idea. Doing it before the wrench slips all the way is a better one. PLacing something, seems someone suggested a socket? on the head of the bolt in the oil filter cover & smacking it to shock the thread is a grand idea. Surely you wont have to buy an impact driver, but if ya do, they arent expensive. |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/20/07 at 01:25:18 OHH, since no one else mentioned it. I know you didnt ask & most likely, this isnt the problem, But, If the allen wrench is situated so it is ppoking straight up, towards the gas tank, it needs pushed toward the rear tire. I am not trying to be a jerk to you, I just didnt want to overlook anything that might help. People get confused,, ya know? |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by skrapiron on 08/20/07 at 04:53:46 I went to Sears and bought a set of cushioned 'T' handle metric hex wrenches. That way, all the torque from twisting is centered on the head of the screw instead of on the shaft of the wrench.. $20.00 for the set and you'll ask what took yourself so long to get them... |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/20/07 at 06:30:18 I grabbed a set of T handles at Harbor Freight. Waited for 3 months for them to go on sale. Got them 1/2 off, $4.00 for the set & it comes with a metal stand. They sit on top of the 2X6 behind the toolbox. The electrical wires trap it so it stays. No padded comfort, but I sure like them. Gotta have the others too tho, for the stubborn ones & the limited space. The 4 mm at the rear of the seat? Man, sooo much easier! |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by drums1 on 08/21/07 at 21:28:18 Some people are definately over tightening these things. It's only a rubber o-ring. It doesn't need 85 ft.lbs. of torque. You don't want it too loose, but geeze, they don't need to be that tight. Not sure what the proper torque spec is for those. I work on cars for a living, so I kinda got a feel for how tight is tight enough. When you're re-installing them, send Johnny Beefcake home and let the gasket do the sealing. (Same goes for the drainplug--should never need a hammer to loosen it.) |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by SavageDude on 08/22/07 at 06:29:04 I second what Drum1 said. If you don't have torque wrench, tighten the bolts/screws until it is tight and snub. Recheck after 1st ride and see if any leak appears; if so tighten just a bit more to stop the leak. |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by LANCER on 08/22/07 at 06:53:49 Yep, small bolts, aluminum threads in the case, rubber gasket on them...just a nice snug turn of the wrist is all that is needed. I rarely use a torque wrench on little bolts like these...it is all in the FEEL of the "turn of the wrist". If you go easy and take your time, not doing a hard-n-fast turn to crank it down, you will feel the steel threads of the bolts taking hold of the aluminum threads of the case, feel the snug contact and feel the alum. beginning to stretch as it gets tighter. That is when it is time to stop. I would bet that the torque at that point is within 5-10% of the book torque value. For some reason I can just feel it ... don't know why, I just can. |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by verslagen1 on 08/22/07 at 09:06:50 And really, it has an o-ring seal. if the seats aren't scratched it will seal long before the screws are torqued. You just need to torque them to keep them from falling out. ;D |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by skatnbnc on 08/22/07 at 09:57:40 Too tight bolts - Oh hello preaching to the choir! I ended up pushing the wrench with my FOOT to get the oil bolt off, and had to whack the side cover screws with a hammer before they came loose. Also, something not mentioned yet - spray them with a lube like WD40. Keep at it - if I can do it YOU sure can!! ;) |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by verslagen1 on 08/22/07 at 11:19:50 There's a tip for you... if your bolts are too tight find yourself a wench with a wrench. ;D |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by Savage_Rob on 08/22/07 at 13:45:07 And if it's nuts that are too tight.... well..... |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/22/07 at 16:22:52 If I was gonna ever teach someone the fine art of tightening things up I would start with a few nuts & bolts of different sizes & have them twist a few off. Make sure they go into it slow enough to feel it start to break down. Get aluminum & wreck some of that. Steel bolts into aluminum feels different than steel in steel. |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by NDBiker on 08/22/07 at 17:36:14 Well thanks guys, I was finally able to make it out to Sears today for a set of T-Wrenches. As soon as I got back I tried one and it worked wonderfully. Cheers. |
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Title: Re: Filter Plate Problems Post by skatnbnc on 08/23/07 at 06:22:43 verslagen1 wrote:
This wench had a LOT of assistance and advice from the forum before her wrench worked properly.... ;) |
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