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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Intake and Exhaust questions... Raask and Mikuni
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Message started by Rockin_John on 08/02/07 at 11:03:56

Title: Intake and Exhaust questions... Raask and Mikuni
Post by Rockin_John on 08/02/07 at 11:03:56

Hey folks, I've been looking at options for further performance mods, and in my searches I noticed someone (Greg?) talking about using the big I.D. Raask straight pipe as a header by cutting it off. Sounds like an excellent, though expensive, idea. Anyone got a best price source on the Raask in the U.S. to share?

And on the intake... What O.D. size is the spigot (manifold) end of our stock Mikuni? I'd like to look at other VM/TM carb options, and need to know if I'm looking for a new manifold too. From all my reading so far, it looks like the VM in 36mm or 38mm is the way to go. As I recall, one of the sidehack guys could never get a big flat slide dialed in good. (Discussion?)

Speaking of manifolds, I've found some in the U.K. but not in the U.S. so far. U.S. sources for aftermarket manifolds anyone? Also, anyone remember off the top what the bolt size and center to center spread is on the manifold?

I'd just measure some of this stuff myself, but I seem to have misplaced my digital calipers... again ;D

Title: Re: Intake and Exhaust questions... Raask and Miku
Post by LANCER on 08/02/07 at 19:25:39

When using a VM or TM carb on the Savage/S40 it is necessary to get a new rubber flange in order to mount the carb to the cyl head. The bolt spread is right at 70mm and the flange runs about $20-22. It is also a good ideal to replace the stock, meaning cheap, original philips head screws with some stainless hex head bolts.

Title: Re: Intake and Exhaust questions... Raask and Miku
Post by Max_Morley on 08/02/07 at 23:16:01

I used a used RAASK as a head pipe. cut about a foot off the end, watch for the weld that holds the inner and outer pipe together and make sure you cut far enough back from it you can get the muffler inlet between the 2 pipes. I use a HD FXD/F muffler and it fits so tight I don't use a clamp there. just the bolt in the slide slot on an extension of the OE muffler support. The first water logged sportster muffler I got had a heat shield on it and I use it to hide the HD script. First one of the set lasted about 27,000 miles before the baffle burned itself loose but not out. The are OE 80 dbA mufflers with a good tone and HD construction so they do not ring like some of the thinner ones do. Max