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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Oil change DONE! /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1185994135 Message started by skatnbnc on 08/01/07 at 11:48:55 |
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Title: Oil change DONE! Post by skatnbnc on 08/01/07 at 11:48:55 Time for the first oil change! After printing out the instructions (with pics) off our tech section, I need to know WHAT to order for the new oil filter. My Clymers manual and Owners manual say exactly ZIP nada about an order # for that part. And the filters mentioned in the tech section just say EMCO, OEM. What is that? Where can I get it? Locally? Cause I am planning to do the oil change this weekend. |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by verslagen1 on 08/01/07 at 12:05:50 If you're mail ordering, just click on the OEM parts and follow the bread trail. If you want after market, you're going to have to search abit. |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by skatnbnc on 08/01/07 at 12:08:27 Forgot to say why I was having an issue (as i did locate some part #'s) I have an 2006 model, and so far have not found anything compatible. Is the EMGO Emgo PN 10-85900 correct? Emgo website says this filter is good for models thru 2005... Anyone here changed their filter on a newer model yet? |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by youzguyz on 08/01/07 at 12:10:34 skatnbnc wrote:
Not sure if you are aware of this or not, but OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer (Suzuki). You can get OEM parts online (like verslagen1 said) or at the stealership. They SHOULD have the oil filter in stock.. I would hope! You just might end up paying a wee bit much. The OEM part number (as per Bike Bandit): 9: FILTER,ENGINE OIL 485535-001 $4.22 CORRECTION. That P/N is Bike Bandit's, not OEM! sorry!! And the link.. if it will post up right. OEM (Stock) Parts 2006 Suzuki LS650S40 - OIL PUMP (http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~2361360~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock%29+Parts~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~2006~model_dept_mfr~Suzuki~model_dept_id~2361327~model_dept_name~LS650S40.asp) Edited to clean up the link for display purposes. Thanks Rob! ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by skatnbnc on 08/01/07 at 12:38:21 Okay I called around to the whopping TWO parts dealers in town and got wildly different answers. Hawks said $11.95 for the EMGO and $16.99 for KN and I would not have to change the filter but once a year because its so good. Uh huh. Britt said $5.20 for OEM with tax, and that is my local stealership! What do you all think before I zip out to get one? Is Hawks blowing smoke (or smoking blow?) |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by youzguyz on 08/01/07 at 12:44:52 From what I can see: http://store.bobscycle.com/browse.cfm/4,55273.htm 6.29 vs 16.99 !?? (but shipping needs to be considered) and I didn't do a lot of looking for the KN Hawks is blowing a bit of smoke. Personally, I would go to the stealership if you are in a hurry. |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by skatnbnc on 08/01/07 at 12:54:25 EMGO online was $4.00 with $6.99 flat rate shipping. So if I order them its cheaper. But they won't come in time for the weekend, which may turn into tomorrow the way Suzi is acting right now. Hoping the oil change will fix her cranky morning behavior. |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by Oldfeller2 on 08/01/07 at 13:19:57 JC Whitney had them for three and some change, so I ordered 10 of them at a lick to make sure the postage was minimized by getting "a few pounds worth". Oldfeller |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by skatnbnc on 08/01/07 at 18:02:02 Yeah, the EMGO order was for as many as will, flat ship rate. Picked up the OEM filter for $4 after work at the stealership tonight AND 2 quarts of Suzuki MC oil for $2.99 If they keep this up I may actually start checking with them more often. Still no go for service though... ;) |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by youzguyz on 08/02/07 at 03:46:17 skatnbnc wrote:
Where did you order them from? |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by skatnbnc on 08/02/07 at 09:27:09 youzguyz wrote:
Here is where I found the inexpensive ones. www.ibikesports.com www.mfgsupply.com |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by youzguyz on 08/02/07 at 10:30:36 Thanks! |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by T-Mack1 on 08/02/07 at 10:41:34 Quote:
Old school thinking: always replace oil filter with the oil change. Second thing to think about: Find out why their's cost 3 to 4 times as much as a Dealers OEM filter. There should be some marketing smooze to say why and if you believe it then spend the money. Remember the term "stealership", if the dealer is charging $4 and that is normally overpriced, the $16.99 filter should keep the oil clean and maybe wash the bike too. As for cranky in the morning, don't forget to check the battery. Summer heat can lower water level and lower cranking amp's. |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by skatnbnc on 08/02/07 at 12:38:33 T-Mack1 wrote:
I'm about to start a new thread on this morning problem, because it is really getting on my nerves. I am truly hoping it just needs an oil change... :P |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by PhotoProf on 08/02/07 at 13:45:30 I used to do quality control work on gas filters and of course oil is very different, but I wouldn't buy the cheapest filter out there. OEM specs are different than after market as I recall. Anyway, I wouldn't buy less than the OEM equipment! To me this is money is well spent if it protects the motor. It's interesting to see money spent on mods and then neglect the very basics to good performance. |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs Post by skatnbnc on 08/04/07 at 12:29:15 ARRRGGG! I've spent WAY too much time trying to do this today, and have now blown my free time ride that I was going to do this afternoon. I cannot get this nut off!!! >:( http://w2.bikepics.com/pics/2007/08/04/bikepics-983928-full.jpg And is this the correct one to remove? It does not look exactly like the one in the Clymers manual, and it is taking a 14mm instead of 17mm as stated elsewhere. |
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Title: Re: Oil change specs HELP! Post by skatnbnc on 08/04/07 at 12:44:01 As an added bonus, I cannot get any of my tools up under there with enough clearance to turn, so I ended up raising the back tire and kickstand onto some lumber. Now that the whole thing is elevated, shaky and still annoyingly not working, does anyone have an idea how to get the dang nut off before I kick the whole bike over in frustration. >:( |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by skatnbnc on 08/04/07 at 14:57:31 I've been out there for another HOUR and I still cannot get it loose. Part is that I still am not getting enough clearance to really whack it. I put WD40 on it, let it soak 40 minutes. Tried turning in both directions. No luck at all. Reminds me of the first time I tried to remove ANY screw on this bike. It's like Locktite central. I also don't have a real 14mm wrench. I'm using my adjustable wrench. My socket wrench has no clearance due to the indentation. How come everyone else had this one down easy?? |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by KenGLong on 08/04/07 at 15:14:11 Get a real 14mm box-end wrench. It will hold on a lot better than an adjustable or even an open-end wrench and it will fit up in there better. It should come off eventually. Be persistant. The older models had a 17mm, the newer ones are 14mm. And, I just checked to be sure, the bolt you show in your mirror is the right one. Good luck. Ken |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by PhotoProf on 08/04/07 at 15:47:46 If you get the correct wrench that would certainly help... as I recall, a little tap with a mallet/hammer helped persuade that puppy to loosen up. Adjustable wrenches are the pits... if you are serious about doing your own work, buy a set of good metrics... I think I picked up a set of Sears Craftsman (lifetime warranty) for about $20 on sale. Be careful lifting up the back end... I don't care if these bikes are under 400 pounds, it can hurt if it falls on you. PS I like your mirror!!! |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by skatnbnc on 08/04/07 at 16:32:30 I knew someone was going to comment about the mirror. :) Because I am pulling so hard on the wrench, the bike is actually moving back and forward, so I tied the bike to keep it upright. http://w2.bikepics.com/pics/2007/08/04/bikepics-984072-full.jpg I am going to the store now to buy a 14mm wrench. :P |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by KenGLong on 08/04/07 at 16:42:22 Oh, yeah, lefty-loosy, righty tighty. In other words, with the box end on the bolt rotate it counter-clockwise to loosen. Ken |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by Savage_Rob on 08/04/07 at 17:54:47 And this is one place I really love my swiveling ratchet wrenches. |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by skatnbnc on 08/04/07 at 18:49:06 Savage_Rob wrote:
Yeah I saw those when I went in to buy my wrench tonight. They looked complicated, and were rather expensive. I ended up with an 8 piece metric Craftsman set of the kind that hold on even if the bolt is starting to lose its edge, on clearance for $24. Thanks to PhotoProf for that tip! I tried right/tight, left/loose and got zero in either direction. I put more WD40 on the nut. It is now full dark. I am officially calling it a day. |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by DanGill on 08/04/07 at 18:54:42 Try tapping the bolt with a hammer (not too hard) while applying pressure with the wrench. You can also try tapping the wrench in the correct (counterclockwise) direction. Sometimes shock does what steady pressure will not. |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by verslagen1 on 08/04/07 at 19:40:17 skat, try this... put the front wheel on top of a brick or 4x4. also put a brick under the kick stand same size. you don't really need to do this if you have a skinny oil pan though. from the front place the wrench on the bolt, and it should be high up as possible. take the biggest wrench you have and interlock it with the 14mm, like one of those wire puzzles. The box end will slip over one side of the open end. Now you have one big wrench. you bought craftsman so I know they can take it as I do it all the time. push down on the front side and it should break it loose. Of course, if you push down and the wrenches just swing about, you locked together the wrong way, try the other side of the open wrench. |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by PhotoProf on 08/04/07 at 20:17:17 Once you get the wrench firmly onto the bolt, try tapping the wrench to the left (toward the front of the bike) with a rubber mallet or take a small piece of wood and hold it on the wrench while hitting it with a regular hammer. I think you are going to have a difficult time tapping the bolt directly... not enough room! |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by verslagen1 on 08/04/07 at 21:03:01 PhotoProf wrote:
I think you need to rethink the direction for loosening of the drain bolt. Of course I have a cold and on drugs, could be wrong? But having done it just a few weeks ago using my interlocking wrenches, I'm positive I pushed down, maybe. ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by barb36jack31 on 08/05/07 at 10:18:35 If you can find some "oil of wintergreen" your problem will be solved. It is the absolute BEST penetrating oil known to man. Drugstores will haveit and a 2 or 3 oz. bottle will last a lifetime. Just slop some on the bolt head and then wrap a piece of cloth over the bolt and put a few more drops on the cloth. Let the whole thing set overnight and it will come off quite nicely. |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by PhotoProf on 08/05/07 at 10:44:23 verslagen1 may be right now that I reflect on things. For some reason, it seems like you did go opposite of normal (loosey leftie) direction. Anyhow, if it doesn't loosen, go the other direction. I've had cases where I actually tighten just a little then tried loosening things with some success. You should get an idea of what is happening if you just lightly tap things... don't give it a big hit. Oh... I know what threw me off... it was the mirror... everything is reversed. Just kidding. |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by skatnbnc on 08/05/07 at 12:03:26 I started back at it at 9:30 AM this morning. It is now 2:30 PM and I am finally FINISHED with the oil change! I took everyones advice to get the dang nab nut off. I added 3-1 oil and then almond oil later. I soaked it, I rubbed it in, I put a rag on it. I tried double wrenching, rubber mallet, pulled back and forth. Did I mention it is 98 degrees and humid here? Sweatfest does not even begin to describe this event. Are you guys ready for what finally worked? I laid on the ground and used my FOOT to push the wrench...and it finally broke loose. Alleluah. (I may not ever reveal full details of how I did that...it's a little scary.) Wooosh - oil pours out. Thank you thank you thank you. Completed draining including tipping the bike to get it all out. No problem. Note shallow, narrow drip pan. Made for better clearance when trying to remove nut. http://w2.bikepics.com/pics/2007/08/05/bikepics-984756-full.jpg Step two. Remove allen bolts from case. Pulled out the tool needed. Not one bolt would budge....AARRGGG!!!! >:( Rinse, lather, repeat bolt soaking procedure. While waiting for all this bolt soaking, I ended up doing a lot of other maintenance on the bike. All the cables are now lubed, every other nut and bolt checked for tightness (huh), cleaned the whole bike, waxed it, oiled what needed oiled, greased everything else, polished the chrome, checked the brakes. Looking downright spiffy, even if I can't go anywhere because all the oil is drained out. :P Another hour of whacking away and oiling and soaking until, at last, the allen bolts surrender to my merciless cussing. For future reference the 2006 model uses a 14 mm wrench, and a 5 mm allen wrench on the case, and OEM part number 16510-37450 oil filter. Thank you one and all. ;) |
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Title: Re: Oil change NEED HELP! Post by skatnbnc on 08/05/07 at 12:20:36 PhotoProf wrote:
Mirror or no mirror, here is how mine finally came off. If you are on the LEFT side of the bike (as shown in photo above) the wrench needs to go LEFT. That would be turning down. What got crazy was how many times I was on the right AND left sides of the bike trying to work it loose. As it happened, I was on the RIGHT side when the miracle occured. Naturally, the wrench flew off and I could not believe anything had worked until I got up under there again, and the bolt was free. Once I cool down I plan to take a short ride. I did all the final steps of idling, checking levels and stuff, no leaks so far. Want to get it out and really moving before I am sure it is good to go for the daily commute tomorrow. |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by TVR on 08/05/07 at 12:23:24 Congrats! Nothing more satisfying than WINNING! ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by verslagen1 on 08/05/07 at 12:27:11 once had a 63 vdub bus. The rear drums were secured to the axles by a rather large nut. I had a 18" cresent wrench and a 6' cheater. Put her in 1st gear, set the parking brake and blocked the wheel. Tried it from the back, the wheel turned and spit out the block for good measure. OK, now from the front, same thing. Ok bigger block and sisters standing on the brake. Oh yeah she finally comes loose. The required torque on those puppies 200+ ft-lbs. ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by skatnbnc on 08/05/07 at 12:45:36 verslagen1 wrote:
You must have VERY cool sisters! ;) |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by DanGill on 08/05/07 at 13:25:09 Yeah, the VW axle bolts were a bear. We always used a Craftsman socket and a huge cheater bar and put a piece of plywood between the bolt and the man turning the bar, because sometimes the socket would shatter. Sears always replaced it. Glad you got the oil change done. Vibration can make bolts get pretty tight. That's one reason you put anti-sieze on spark plugs. |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by PhotoProf on 08/05/07 at 14:20:44 Good to hear you've met with success! Next time, video the episode... maybe you could sell the DVD and recoup the cost of your new wrench set!!! Ride safe! |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by skatnbnc on 08/05/07 at 16:51:29 PhotoProf wrote:
It would have to be a silent movie due to the variations of bad words being shouted. And did I mention it was a little warm today? It was NOT a pretty sight. :-X |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by guitar52 on 08/05/07 at 17:39:50 I use a painters roller pan to catch the oil, works nicely! |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by PhotoProf on 08/05/07 at 18:52:56 Glad you have a sense of humor!! Sometimes the little jobs turn into big ones... I spent a good day installing a horn. On the bright side... just think of how much money you saved today alone... 9:30 - 2:30 = 5 hours @$70 hour at dealership. Wow... $350... you can buy more accessories/mods!! |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by verslagen1 on 08/05/07 at 19:34:19 skatnbnc wrote:
sounds like a prono, a hot woman talking dirty! |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by BigWes on 08/05/07 at 21:18:39 I see this post/question alot, had my bike serviced at a shop so they did it for me, but why does it seem people are having problems with this on their bikes? |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by verslagen1 on 08/05/07 at 22:18:46 Most of the posts are from newbys who are unsure of themselves. And don't have a lot of experience twisting wrenches. If you know which way to loosen a bolt, upside down and backwards then this is easy. I used to twist wrenches quite often, then all the cars I had were electronic and a mystery so I stopped. Now I have this bike which for the most part is exactly like my old vdubs. I'm back in my element. I can remove a bolt from the backside and know which way to turn. Most newbys just need a little reasurance. The second time they do it, they're experts and will help you out. ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by skatnbnc on 08/06/07 at 13:01:11 verslagen1 wrote:
Thank you Big V - that is exactly right. Personally I was unsure of the procedure because I had never done that before. I kept asking myself "what am I doing wrong? Why is this so HARD?" Well, with the support (almost HOURLY) from the forum here, I was able to work through it with plenty of experienced feedback and ideas of different ways to go about it. End result is = ask me a question about an oil change on the Savage and I can TELL you all about it from first hand experience! ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by barb36jack31 on 08/06/07 at 14:54:37 Congratulations on your oil change victory!. Someone had obviously tighetened bolts and allen head scrws way too tight. There is a certain feeling that comes with experience that lets you know the bolt/screw is "just right". Tighten the bolt up snug, and then give it just a bit more torque. You will feel it in your hand when it is just right. Now certainly torque settings are very important, but most of the time your hand will tell you when you are just about "right on". Again, congrats on your success. Jack H. |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by verslagen1 on 08/06/07 at 22:55:42 Well I gotta ask... Which foot did you steady the bike while the other kicked the wrench? ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by skatnbnc on 08/07/07 at 05:50:48 verslagen1 wrote:
I had to think about that to remember. Kicked with my right, back tire braced with my left. Get yourself a visual there... ;D |
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Title: Re: Oil change DONE! Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/07/07 at 20:06:29 Next time an allen wrench is giving you grief try a 1/4 drive deep socket with an extension for a cheater. Or, stick a box end wrench on the allen wrench for leverage. The hole at the end O the handle of a crrescent will work. |
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