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Message started by Natanelli on 08/01/07 at 08:58:44

Title: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Natanelli on 08/01/07 at 08:58:44

Hey guys, I saw a How To on changing the front brakes, and a picture break down of the rear wheel and brakes. However I couldn't find a How To on changing the rear brakes. Do you know if it's been posted?

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by YonuhAdisi on 08/01/07 at 09:13:05

Its actually pretty easy, after you manage to get the rear wheel off, (which is the hardest part of the operation) the brake drum separates with no problem. The trick to installing the new shoes I have found is the put the springs on the shoes before you try to place the shoes in the hub.

You then "butterfly" them in by setting the shoes on their edges and carefully spread them apart until the seat into the hub.

I wish I had some pic so I could illustrate what I'm talking about.

I might be able to do something. I have an old rear wheel I may beable to demonstrate on. Unfortunately it will be a couple of days or more before I can get to it.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Natanelli on 08/01/07 at 09:30:41

Thanks a lot. I figured it would be pretty straight forward. There are just things that I didn't know about changing out parts (ex. when taking off the casing always replace the gasket, or put oil on certain parts if you put a new one in). Should I clean everything out? Etc. Can I get these brake pads at any local Auto Zone or bike shop?

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by YonuhAdisi on 08/01/07 at 09:49:57

Yeah, you can get them at a bike shop. I got mine at my local Suzi stealership. They don't cost much. And is always a good idea to remove the brake dust that will be inside the hub. I used a can of compressed air and a rag. It would be a very good idea to wear a mask, while blowing out the dust, you don't want to inhale any of that stuff.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by justin_o_guy on 08/01/07 at 18:28:43

A better idea is NO compressed air. Use a brush & dont get in a hurry. A mask is essential. A damp piece of tee shirt catches everything. A wet piece of tee shirt will about suffocate ya, damp is good. Its okay to look ridiculous when dealing with brake dust. Looking dead 15 years later wont make looking cool seem all that cool. If you can run a fan, set it to blow from Kinda sorta behind you, not directly behind, but back at an angle, toward the wheel & brake parts. That way, as much dust as can be sent away from you is being blown safely away. Recommend no children around.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Strafford_Guy on 08/07/07 at 14:06:47

I am thinking that I have to change the rear brakes on the beast. There is brake dust on the outside of the wheel rim near the brake panel and the bike seems to be dragging. Other then the brake cam is there anything more that I should order? I am hoping that this will take care of the dragging feeling. It feels like it is holding the rear wheel back. I unserstand that your suggestions would be speculation without actually seeing the wheel disassemled but I have no experince at all doing this and I am sure that between everyone here I maybe able to get some direction.

Thanks again,
~Strafford_Guy~

Added: anything more that folks could think of that may cause the rear wheel to feel as if it is dragging would be appreciated. The  belt tension is fine. If there is anymore information is needed I would be happy to tell you what you need to know.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Reelthing on 08/07/07 at 15:12:21

Me, I use the car wash 5x.25 to hose the dust out of there before I pull the wheel - just need to ride the rear brake a little bit to dry it out - works pretty good - really not much in that rear drum to hold any thing back unless the shoes are drag'n - does your adjuster seem to be in a reasonable place?  

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Strafford_Guy on 08/07/07 at 15:34:50

Reelthing, the adjuster seems to be within spec. ( if you are refering to the mark on the brake lever and the panel) I am thinking (hoping) it is the rear brakes draggin but I really have no idea what more to look for that maybe causing it. When I got the bike there was about 10% pad left on the fronts. I have since replaced. I have no idea about the back.

added If you are refering to the drive belt adjusters then they seem to be pretty well set.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Max_Morley on 08/08/07 at 09:24:21

A tight drive belt wil make it feel like the brake is dragging. The shaft the cam turns in the brake hub could be binding and need cleaning and lubing with some high temp grease. Also a little (real little) dab of high temp grease on the cam to shoe contact points will help insure squeek free operation. Please be careful and not get any grease on the brake lining material. Max

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Reelthing on 08/08/07 at 11:52:57


Max_Morley wrote:
...... not get any grease on the brake lining.......


Now I bet that would make for some fun!

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Natanelli on 08/08/07 at 13:07:39

Changed the front and rear brakes. The only thing that suprised me about the fronts (cause I'm a newbie) was that when you push the piston in brake fluid shoots out of the master cylinder (that was fun). Like the tech guide I had to use a pliers to push the piston down. I know they said if you can't do it by hand you should clean it, but besides wiping it off I didn't really know where to start with that.

The rear brakes were actually easy. The only annoying thing is the back wheel and keeping track of everything. I had a couple of friends hold everything in place while putting it back which made it a lot easier. YonuhAdisi, I believe I know now what you mean by "butteflying" the rear brakes in and it definately made it easier.

I think next time I have the wheels off I'll change the bearings. They're pretty cheap. I think all you have to do is replace the old ones with the new ones, right? Do you have to put grease on em?

Thanks for the help.


Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by YonuhAdisi on 08/08/07 at 13:16:52

Never replaced the wheel bearings so I don't know how easy of a swap it is. But I'm glad I was able to help you out with the brakes. Glad it worked out for you.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Reelthing on 08/08/07 at 13:35:16


Natanelli wrote:
was that when you push the piston in brake fluid shoots out of the master cylinder (that was fun). Like the tech guide I had to use a pliers to push the piston down. I know they said if you can't do it by hand you should clean it, but besides wiping it off I didn't really know where to start with that.


the deal on the piston is presure - you can do it most likely with your hands you just need to keep the pressure on there for a couple minutes as it goes back slow - if push it in too fast - well splash!

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Strafford_Guy on 08/08/07 at 19:00:26

"The shaft the cam turns in the brake hub could be binding and need cleaning and lubing with some high temp grease"

Thanks Max I will take a look. and to all that gave suggestions.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by NDBiker on 10/17/07 at 19:24:45

Do any of you know the type or number of brake shoes are used?  I'm wanting to get them online and I'm haveing dificulties finding what kind I should get.  Any help would be awsome.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by islandwahine on 10/17/07 at 19:30:32


YonuhAdisi wrote:


I wish I had some pic so I could illustrate what I'm talking about.


I will take some when I'm doing mine.
I had my daughter on the back yesterday, and discovered that my back brakes are pretty useless. They squealed like crazy and but hardly slowed us down at all.
I guess that squealing did mean they are bad. Oops.


Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Brewbrother on 10/18/07 at 14:00:19


NDBiker wrote:
Do any of you know the type or number of brake shoes are used?  I'm wanting to get them online and I'm haveing dificulties finding what kind I should get.  Any help would be awsome.


64400-44810 I think they were $35 or so when I bought some last year.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Rockin_John on 10/22/07 at 01:49:47


Natanelli wrote:
Changed the front and rear brakes. The only thing that suprised me about the fronts (cause I'm a newbie) was that when you push the piston in brake fluid shoots out of the master cylinder (that was fun). Like the tech guide I had to use a pliers to push the piston down. I know they said if you can't do it by hand you should clean it, but besides wiping it off I didn't really know where to start with that.

The rear brakes were actually easy. The only annoying thing is the back wheel and keeping track of everything. I had a couple of friends hold everything in place while putting it back which made it a lot easier. YonuhAdisi, I believe I know now what you mean by "butteflying" the rear brakes in and it definately made it easier.

I think next time I have the wheels off I'll change the bearings. They're pretty cheap. I think all you have to do is replace the old ones with the new ones, right? Do you have to put grease on em?

Thanks for the help.


Shooting from the lip here without consulting the books or anything... This I know for certain: you definitely DO grease wheel bearings when installing them. And there is a special method of what is called "packing" the bearings by hand. You fill the palm of one hand with grease, and take the bearing and kind of scrape grease into the opening on the back side of the roller cage. After doing this a few times, grease will start to come out the race side of the bearing face. You have then "packed" grease through that part of the bearing. You continue this procedure all around the bearing until it is internally "packed" with grease all the way around.

Also, when you replace wheel bearings, it is common practice to replace the "race" that the face of the bearing runs on. The "race" is pressed into the hub, and may be pressed out, or knocked out from behind, with a metal bar and hammer. The the new race is pressed or hammered into the hub with a brass hammer or bar or dead-blow hammer in preparation for installing the new bearing. Some car or cycle applications require that you fill a cavity around the bearing with grease to insure that it never runs dry.

All the above is just general mechanic procedure, and if there is any question, always follow the manual for the specific vehicle as to exactly how to do the job.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Reelthing on 10/22/07 at 13:09:44

while it is fun to play in grease - and hand packing unsealed bearings is the peak of this - you can find a way to have grease frm you finger tips to your ear lobe -

but no such fun here as they are sealed - just knock the old ones out (easier said then done) and the new ones in - lube up the axle a bit -





Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Savage_Greg on 10/22/07 at 15:28:49


Reelthing wrote:
while it is fun to play in grease - and hand packing unsealed bearings is the peak of this - you can find a way to have grease frm you finger tips to your ear lobe -

but no such fun here as they are sealed - just knock the old ones out (easier said then done) and the new ones in - lube up the axle a bit -




Yep.  Front wheels too.  

Seems they don't use open bearings that much anymore.  Less labor time probably.  Heck not long ago I did a brake job on our truck and as I was following the Haynes manual, I figured to repack the front wheel bearings as it recommended...guess that Haynes isn't quite up to date either.  Those bearings were sealed, too, and I didn't get to play in the grease :P

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Rockin_John on 10/27/07 at 12:29:48


Savage_Greg wrote:

Yep.  Front wheels too.  

Seems they don't use open bearings that much anymore.  Less labor time probably.  Heck not long ago I did a brake job on our truck and as I was following the Haynes manual, I figured to repack the front wheel bearings as it recommended...guess that Haynes isn't quite up to date either.  Those bearings were sealed, too, and I didn't get to play in the grease :P



Dang, sealed bearings huh? Tires with no tubes in them. Batteries with no liquid in them... What will they think of next? ;D

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by Rockin_John on 10/27/07 at 12:37:49


Savage_Greg wrote:

Yep.  Front wheels too.  

Seems they don't use open bearings that much anymore.  Less labor time probably.  Heck not long ago I did a brake job on our truck and as I was following the Haynes manual, I figured to repack the front wheel bearings as it recommended...guess that Haynes isn't quite up to date either.  Those bearings were sealed, too, and I didn't get to play in the grease :P



They're my favorite, and given the chance, I'll buy a Haynes manual for anything I own. Too bad they don't publish one for the Savage.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/27/07 at 17:34:26

A friend of mine took different gauge needles & stuck grease zerks on them. He carefully works the needle past the edge of the seal on bearings in need of grease & squirts some in. I wouldnt hassle with it on the bike axle, but on some alternators, its worth trying.

Title: Re: Changing Rear Brakes
Post by islandwahine on 10/27/07 at 17:59:54


Rockin_John wrote:



They're my favorite, and given the chance, I'll buy a Haynes manual for anything I own. Too bad they don't publish one for the Savage.

You know, when I was at Borders they said that they could order me a Haynes one for the Suzuki savage. I was about to when a mechanic told me not to get the Haynes one, but to see if I could find a Suzuki one. Better details he said.
I ended up with Clymer, go figure!

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