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Message started by praetorian on 07/29/07 at 14:41:10

Title: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by praetorian on 07/29/07 at 14:41:10

So I have a multi-meter and I have NO idea how to use it.  I bought one of the best ones that Lowes had when I first got my bike because I was told that I would need one at some time or other.  Now I DO need one and I have no clue how to use it.  The manual that came with it is NO help for someone who has never used one.

This is the one that I have:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v498/rmccracken/DSC01074.jpg



I need to check that the charging system is actually working correctly.  I was told to put a multi-meter on the battery with the engine running and that it should read about 12 volts.  Then twist the throttle and as the engine revs up, the volts should increase.

My question is which setting do I turn this dial to:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v498/rmccracken/DSC01076.jpg


I have never used one so I have no idea.  I also am posting this on a few different forums that I belong to in the hopes to get some help with this as soon as I can, so some of you might see this same post elsewhere.

Also if anyone know of a good web site that can teach me the basics of one of these things, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Robert

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by Ed_L. on 07/29/07 at 15:40:01

To check a 12 volt system point the arrow at the 50 volt DC mark on the meter, it's around 2:00 on the outside dial. To read the meter look at the right side of the meter window and find the black 50. This is the voltage range that you just set the arrow at. When you attach the leads to the battery the red goes on the positive, the black negitive. To read the voltage just see where the thin pointer in the window goes. Kind of like reading a gas gauge in a cage. There should of been a instruction manual somewhere if you bought it new. The digital meters are a lot easier to use, if you can try to take that one back and get a digital from Radio Shack. :-/

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by verslagen1 on 07/29/07 at 15:50:58

Warning don't try anything till you've read this all the way thru.  

1st, the knob setting: on the top right hand quad of the knob is a V with a - and ... underneath, that's DC.  You'll be using this mostly.  50 is the next biggest number over the reading you expect which is 12 volts.

2nd, the cables: the black one goes in the common plug.  The red one stays where it's at.

Ok, now you're ready to take a reading.... what?  Oh the scale.  We've set the knob on 50VDC, the scale we are going to use ends with 50, see it? right there on the right hand side in the middle of all the other numbers.  What? mirror? yeah that's for picking nits with... ok, ok, if you really want to be accurate with your reading, close one eye, line up the needle with the image in the mirror before you take a reading.  lissen, don't worry about it, I doubt your scale is calibrated to NSA standard anyway.  

That's the basics for dc,  no I won't go into it further.  you won't remember it all.  Now go out and use it.  And take another stab at reading the manual.  What? it's in chineese?  no, no, turn it over, that side is in english, sort of, dam translation.

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by praetorian on 07/29/07 at 16:58:00

Well, it all makes sense now.... only problem is that just before I posted this, I was messing around with it trying to figure it out myself and I apparently blew the internal fuse because the black lead was plugged into the wrong port.  I went to Walmart to get a new one and all they have is AGC & SFE fuses.  the one in the meter is an MGC 500mA 250V fuse.  I wonder if any of the AGC or SFE ones are equivalent....

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by Max_Morley on 07/29/07 at 21:33:12

Try rafio shack or an electronic supply store (Fry's) Max

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by thumperclone on 07/29/07 at 22:20:52

encarta has some good articles on multi meter usage..

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by Rockin_John on 07/30/07 at 01:12:16

Believe it or not, Home Depot carries a lot of electronics fuses. As soon as it is back in working condition, I'd follow the other suggestion and return it to Lowes for your money back. If a sales person there advised a beginner to get a meter like that, either they don't know squat themselves, or they just wanted to grab your money and to he!! with you getting what you needed.

Sears sells some cheap Craftsman branded digital meters that are easy to use, and much easier for a beginner to figure out the readings on. Self ranging and auto protection too, so you don't blow fuses and let the magic smoke out of them... as often. ;D

Oh, and Sperry is $9.99 junk. The ones at Sears are $29-$49 junk. Fluke meters are almost universally accepted as the best meters on the market. Look to spend upwards of $150, and use it the rest of your life.

For different reasons, I keep both my old Microta (sp?) Radio Shack analog needle meter (never could afford a Simpson) and my Craftsman digital (still can't afford a Fluke). As long as we're on the subject, anyone out there got an old (working) dual trace Tektronix or similar low end oscilloscope they'd part with real cheap? Just need something simple for audio type work. My free WWII surplus one is just silly. It does trace though... kinda. ;D

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by justin_o_guy on 07/30/07 at 02:04:05

I wouldnt go buying any expensive meter for this. You arent exactly gonna be an electronics tech. Just for troubleshooting, a cheap digital. I wouldnt look to spend over $25.00.

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by praetorian on 07/30/07 at 14:58:27

Well, I went to Radio Shack and got the correct fuse. I also stopped by Harbor Freight on my back home and got a set of alligator clips for the leads. They also happened tto have a VERY inexpensive digital meter on sale. It was regular priced at $9.99 and they had it on sale for $3.59 so I bought it, too.

When I got home I put the new fuse in my analog meter and went out to the bike with both meters. They both read the same and here are the results:

Battery without the bike running: 0.68V
With bike running: 13.60 V
at 3500 RPM: 15.92 V
at 5000 RPM: 16.17 V

Here's what happened to make me want to do this. My wife rode to work and it was fine. When leaving work, the bike started right up but the choke was not on and the bike died. It was dead from then on. No electrical power at all. Not even faint headlight. Nothing.

I went and took my portable jump start box. hooked the cables up and turned on the key. Full lights and the bike started right up. Rode it toward home with the wife following right behind. I had gone about 9 miles through town traffic with a couple of stops at lights. Everything was fine when I had to stop at a light about 1 mile from my house. The engine then cut off. NO power at all, not even faint head light. Pushed it through the intersection when the light changed and off the side of the road. Jumped it again and rode it the rest of the way to the house. Pulled straight into the garage and turned it off. Turned the key back on and there was nothing.

I then hooked it up to my battery tender charger and the charger had the "charged" light lit up, not the "charging" one. I repositioned the charger clips and it still showed the same. I went back to it the next day and turned the key. I had faint lights at this time. I repositioned the clips again and the amber "charging" light came on. I left it for another night and the next morning turned the key. Full headlight. I unhooked the charger and tried to start it and it was dead.

The battery is a sealed cell from Advance Auto that is only 9-10 months old.

Any ideas?
   
   
BTW:  the reading were taken with both meters to confirm that the el-cheapo DVM was acurate.  It is.

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by Ed_L. on 07/30/07 at 15:45:49

Sounds like a bad engine ground or battery ground. Take your new meter and put it on the beep setting then touch one lead to the negitive battery terminal and the other to the engine, if you get a beep then the ground is good if not check the little black ground wire next to the oil sight glass. Luck, let us know how you make out..

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by praetorian on 07/30/07 at 16:11:42

To make matters more confusing.  I just pulled the battery and put it on my work bench to let it charge before taking it in to be tested and I threw the meter on it one more time and now it is reading 11.88V where before, when it was in the bike, it read 0.68V.  The battery was also warm when I pulled it from the bike and there was a definate sulpher-like smell going on, also.

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by Ed_L. on 07/30/07 at 17:32:48

Something is going on, was the bike running before you changed the battery? A hot, sulfur smelling battery is not good, maybe you are overcharging it. let it cool off before going any futher. Was the tank off before this began happening, you might have pinched a wire but I would think that you would of blown a fuse or let the smoke out of a wire with a short. It sounds like a battery with a bad cell or loose plates, how old is it. just reread you post and it is only 9 months old. If it isn't holding a full 12 volts when out of the bike then you have a bad battery, get it checked and go from there. It could still be a bad engine or battery ground, check that first.

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by verslagen1 on 07/30/07 at 18:38:44

Agree, take the battery in and have it tested.  Warmth can come from either charging or discharging.  Not sure about the new batteries, but a smell might indicate overcharging.

Becareful with the 'beep' setting.  This is a continuallity tester meaning it's making contact or the wire is good.  It uses it's own battery to do this.  Don't put it accross the battery terminals or you might need to replace another fuse.  In other words, if you have a battery connected, and you don't know what you're doing, check it with the voltmeter first.  No voltage, ok safe to check with beeper.

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by Rockin_John on 07/30/07 at 19:28:53

Good deal on the cheap-o DVM. It may last years and serve you well... maybe. They sure are easier to use and read.

With your voltage readings while reving, I doubt that your charging system is a problem, unless it is overcharging and cooked the battery dead prematurely. Doubtful, but possible.

More likely as others have suggested: Bad ground; shorted wire, or faulty battery. I've had several "nearly new" batteries fail within a year. It happens.

Electrical problems are a regular nuisance on motorcycles. The key is process of elimination through experienced educated guessing. With all the helpful educated guessing from here, you'll find the problem directly.

Oh, a final danger warning in case you or any readers aren't aware: The "warmth" you feel from the battery charging or discharging (too?) quickly can be a warning, as can the "sulphur smell." Lead acid batteries, and the gases they produce can be explosive. Always turn the charger off with the switch, or unplug it before disconnecting the clamp and making a spark. In cases of removing a battery terminal, and sparking cannot be avoided; be certain the area is well ventilated so there is no gas cloud waiting to go BOOM! Battery/gas explosions can be nasty business.

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by Carl on 07/31/07 at 01:22:14

Have just gone thru the same problem with my bike, and it cost me 2 batteries before I found the problem. On my Bike it was the Main Lead from the Starter to the solenoid, which was shorting out to the Engine when I started the Bike. This was Killing the Battery, (Dead Short) But when the Start button was not pressed there was nothing to See and no short to find
You have to Remove the Battery Box to Check if the Cable has rubbed thru on the Engine or frame.
Hope this Helps
Regards
Carl

Title: Re: Multi-meter usage question...
Post by JakeB on 07/31/07 at 07:40:30

The PO must have done some electrical work on my bike because the ground was routed outside of the battery box instead of inbetween the battery box and air box. So the wire was right next to the drive belt and wore almost through the wire. Luckily I found and fixed this before I had any problems. Maybe something similar happened with yours.

JakeB

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