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Message started by Thump05 on 06/12/07 at 20:26:38

Title: Screwed
Post by Thump05 on 06/12/07 at 20:26:38

Ok I admit I laid my 2005 S 40 down. I am still a beginner rider. But at least I was not hurt except my pride. After waiting a week for a new rh tail light, the only other thing that got broken, it finally arrived today. All excited to get riding again, I proceded in trying to remove, seemed to be a simple operation, the broken rh tail light. What the #$@*& do they put those screws in with? I believe they must be welded or glued. I got the correct size phillips type screw head and could not budge the thing. And even though I had good contact and the correct size, the screw head started to tear apart like cheap pot metal. >:(

So I went to Sears and purchased a good quality stripped screw remover aI tried tapping it with a hammer and heating it with a soldering iron. And all it did was continue to tear the screw head apart without loosening it abit. Anyone else had this problem? I have not removed my seat yet because the hex head in the rear is also very tight and I do not wish to tear it up. I guess I go to a machine shop and pay more money. I hope the rest of the bike does not turn out to be so cheap.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by Fido_the_Cat on 06/12/07 at 20:48:38

Thump05 wrote:

.... like cheap pot metal.

Interesting...
What screw are you having trouble with, you don't say. You have a fairly new ride so I don't think it's rust or corrosion. Have you used any type of penetrating oil ( Careful some will ruin the paint)? It's not a reverse thread so that can't be it. Please don't take this any other way than the way it is meant. What are you using for tools? Cheap tools will always fail or foul at the worst time. From your interesting comment I take it you are familiar with cheap quality.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by Rockin_John on 06/12/07 at 21:33:08

Ahh... and another person gets educated on the cheap Japanese phillips head screw. I learned this valuable lesson about 1968 with a Honda CL-90.

Having an impact screwdriver is an absolute necessity; and they're cheap. While you're at it, pick up a "dead blow" hammer to whack it with, you won't regret buying either if you intend to keep working on your own bikes. The action of hammering and twisting a screw at the same moment prevents the striping, and loosens them effectively. Unfortunately once you've stripped the head, the proper tool may not help you. But at least next time you'll have the correct tool to prevent stripping in the first place. Using the recommended penetrating lube first still helps.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by vroom1776 on 06/13/07 at 06:02:31

How to use a rigid screw extractor (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1159393743) they rarely fail.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by Mister_Breeze on 06/13/07 at 06:46:59

Don't feel bad....I had the same thing happen on the wifes new "06. I was put'n on the backrest and I assume you're talking about the single phillips on the underside of the turn signal to the fender rail.

Mine started to strip too and I was using a Snap On screw driver. Had to unplug the signal and then take the rail to the vise (padded it up). Ending up using a hack saw to cut a new groove and with better leverage in the vise got the booger out.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by BornOnFire on 06/13/07 at 07:27:47

Whenever I strip out a phillips screw I spew a lot of swear words and then I use a dremel to cut a slot all the way across the screw. This will allow you to use a standard screwdriver with a lot of muscle to remove it. Works pretty good for me. I second the tactic of using a hammer and penetrating oil like Kroil or WD-40.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by PhotoProf on 06/13/07 at 07:36:53

I think the reason the seat bolt (at the back) is tight is because they use a locking compound. Using a metric hex with ratchet worked great. If you are removing the seat, don't forget the two additional bolts near the front of the seat on the left and right side.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by borne2fly on 06/13/07 at 11:07:06

Someone once told me that the reason these things sometimes lock together is because part A and part B are made of dissimilar metals. Essentially that constitutes a weak battery, and the metals try to diffuse into each other wherever they touch. I believe it's called "fretting". I've replaced such screws with stainless steel Allens, but later when I've removed those screws for routine maintenance they came loose with a pronounced "snap", as though the aluminum had lightly fretted to the stainless (aluminum is pretty reactive stuff). I finally applied graphite powder (pencil lead) to the threads and that seemed to prevent further incidents.

Off the subject slightly ...... exhaust nuts. These things can rust on solid. I use steel studs/bolts with brass nuts for everything on the exhaust system. Never any problem getting things apart.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by justin_o_guy on 06/13/07 at 11:48:58

I use anti sieze in lots of places.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by BornOnFire on 06/13/07 at 12:07:31

[quote author=borne2fly link=board=RubberSideDown;num=1181705198;start=0#7 date=06/13/07 at 11:07:06]I believe it's called "fretting".
quote]

...or galling? Caused by friction and heat?

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by Savage_Rob on 06/13/07 at 12:26:04

Using a bit of toothpaste on the tip of the screwdriver can help it grab a bit better to avoid stripping but if it's already buggered, it won't likely help.

Title: Re: Screwed
Post by justin_o_guy on 06/13/07 at 12:43:27

Galling is the result of friction & heat. But a screw that is screwed in & not messed with undergoes the galvanic corrosion caused by dissimilar metals being in contact.
The reason pullers arent supposed to be used with power tools is that the threads may gall.Well, that & they might break & become a hazard to someones health.