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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Invisible Problem. /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1181346997 Message started by tuxedo on 06/08/07 at 16:56:37 |
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Title: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/08/07 at 16:56:37 OK, I don't make a habit of having panicky posts, but this is what the deal is. I had no mid-range power, lots of bogging. Bike was already running a bit rich though, so I carefully shaved just a touch off the white spacer. Re-assembled carb. Rode to the gas station, bike sounded like it was running out of gas. Filled up. Ran like crap all the way home(less than a half-mile). Ripped apart, checked to make sure I had sealed the diaphagm properly. Maybe so, maybe not. I can assume that since it was popped free after removing the top of the carb that it wasn't. Now Glenn won't start. Turn Turn Turn Bang Pop Die. OVERFLOW. On a side note, I did remove the side stand switch but think that this in no way weighs in on this issue. Eerie white whispy smoke comes from the tailpipe whenever attempting to start. That should help identify the issue, but I have no idea what it means. Glenn is speaking in code to me today. Things I've tried: 1. Idle air adjustment. 2. Hotter/Colder/Same spark plug. Plug is nice and black, like I like it. 3. Re-sealing the vacuum lines for the petc0ck. 4. Adjusting the float. 5. Cleaning the slide. Notes: 1. Petc0ck is Off/on/reserve. 2. Tank is full, LOL. 3. Plugs aren't fouled. 4. Petc0ck vacuum lines are sealed up like my girlfriend in 11th grade. (Not girlfriend for long.) 5. Petc0ck vacuum line WANTS to leak. But is sealed. 6. Overflow comes from vent tubes. 7. Overflow comes by turning petc0ck on and turning throttle, waiting. 8. Float needle is clean, not sticking. Theories anyone? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/08/07 at 17:05:03 Other notes, things I just thought of. Glenn started and ran fine immediately after re-assembly the first time. Ran like crap after I got on the road. Ran like crap UNTIL I gathered some RPMs. Seemed OKer at midrange. That leads me to believe it's running fine with the spacer mod. The overflowing carb is really the sore point. I battled this issue for way too long to re-visit it. I've tried all the things I tried before, and none want to work. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by borne2fly on 06/08/07 at 17:18:36 Overflowing carb, eh? I had a BMW that did that, and a sharp rap on the carb with a plastic screwdriver handle seemed to fix the problem whenever it happened. You adjusted the floats, but are you sure they're actually floating? A sunken float will definitely cause some of the things you're seeing. If that's not it, then I'd disconnect the fuel line, drain the float bowl (and visually inspect it for crud), then fill the float bowl from a known clean fuel source and see how it runs then. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/08/07 at 18:04:55 ok, overflow issue may be solved. Gonna have to see about getting Glenn started now. It wasn't a screwdriver thing. It was a "one float higher than the other" thing. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/08/07 at 18:56:15 OK, overflow's gone. Cranks a lot, won't start. Spark, Air, Fuel...we got em. Still wispy white smoke. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by verslagen1 on 06/08/07 at 19:19:54 unless you mod'd the petc0ck, there's no off. Usually that's prime. So that's why it flooded in the off position. fuel in the vacuum line? = hole in petcock diapham If you haven't mod'd now's the time. check crank case for gas check your plug... wet? call greg I'm done ;D |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/08/07 at 20:43:05 what does a crankcase full of gas do? Symptoms? Petc0ck is modded. Plug does have gas on it when I remove it. Improperly modded petc0ck? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by serowbot on 06/08/07 at 21:43:29 Excellent detail in your description! Maybe here is the problem? " 3. Re-sealing the vacuum lines for the petc0ck. " You may be sealing the fuel leak in, instead of stopping it. Try plugging both the petcock's vacuum tap and the carb's vacuum port with rubber caps and remove the vacuum line completely. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/09/07 at 15:32:01 The petc0ck is modified per bobo's how-to. The vacuum lines are sealed. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by barry68v10 on 06/09/07 at 17:21:03 With a marginal amount of gas in the crankcase it will run very similar to forgetting to fill the crankcase with oil. :( |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by verslagen1 on 06/09/07 at 17:31:36 White smoke indicates flooding, check your plug. I'd open up the carb and double check it. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Max_Morley on 06/09/07 at 17:54:31 If you were rich before, shaving the needle washer raises the needle and makes is richer. Seems backwards but a spring pushes the needle up agains the washer so making it thinner makes it high in the needle jet and richer. Max |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/10/07 at 07:11:13 Also, how do I check the crankcase for gas? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by azjay on 06/10/07 at 07:22:19 check the oil level, smell the oil filler hole |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by justin_o_guy on 06/10/07 at 09:54:18 I have a hard time differentiating some scents/odors. Oil & gas are close enough to make me wonder if I have it right. I would pull the oil filter & let it drip in something & see if it lights easily. I might even take some oil & cut it with a bit O gas to see how it smells & burns. If I wasnt dead sure I would mess with straight oil & compare that to what comes out of the crank case. If you mess with it, you will figure it out. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/11/07 at 07:29:50 tuxedo wrote:
Ya know...as this topic has progressed, I've noticed that you've lost the original thought. First off, if the bike is running a little rich (as you initially stated in paragraph 2), you do not shave off a little bit more of the spacer. That just makes it even richer. Then a little further down, you mention that "Plug is nice and black. Like I like it". What the heck does that mean? Since when is a plug supposed to be black? Tan is the way that "Glenn" likes it. Look. Think KISS! As crude as that may sound, that is the rule to follow. Always. You mention "Spark, Air, Fuel...we got em". Good thing to remember but you have to have the proper ratio of each at the right time. How do you check for gas in the crankcase? Start by looking in the sight glass. Is it over filled? Wispy white smoke? Black smoke is usually gas. Grey is usually oil. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/11/07 at 07:51:32 Glenn's had a black plug for the last three owners. I shaved just a touch off the spacer to restore some midrange power. I believe what I've done is set one float higher than the other, causing a flood. I'll be putting a UNI filter on sometime in the next few days, which should lean up the mixture enough for the "mods" I've made. And the new Harley dealership opened last week, so I might finally be able to get the jets to get the plug nice and grey. kthx. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/11/07 at 08:49:37 tuxedo wrote:
That means that 3 people have been wrong. Quote:
Making it richer when you don't need it robs power. Quote:
You don't adjust the float level by bending the individual floats. They are supposed to be the same, and the adjustment is made on the float needle tab. Quote:
That likely will not make the mixture any leaner. Quote:
So you are going to buy smaller jets? Sounds like you are already too rich and larger jets will just make the whole thing worse. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/11/07 at 09:14:01 First up, Greg, I'm taking you with a grain of salt here. I haven't done anything to lean my bike up because parts availability was, until last week, almost nil. The Suzuki dealership here in little Hot Springs, Arkansas isn't as fancy as those up in the Pacific Northwest. Indy parts stores also have a meager selection. Ever try to bend a tab on a 21 year old float? Upside down? The float drums bend a little when you grip them, at least in my experience. The fix is to put the float upside down on a flat surface and make sure the armature mount lies flat. It's happened at least 3 times to me with this carb. If I have the float bowl off and breathe wrong, the floats go out of balance. That's the reason the 2nd owner couldn't fix the rich condition. Hard to find Mikuni jets loose somewhere. I've had the bike 3 months now and amongst the multitude of things I've done right, I've never had anyone point at the things which I ADMIT WERE WRONG. Don't fix the blame, Greg, help fix the problem. Now, I'm going to stop posting on this thread before I get angry. I really do like you Greg, you're just going to have to think about what you're saying and how you're saying it. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/11/07 at 10:15:24 So. Take me with a grain of salt. You want me to sugar coat it and make it all warm and fuzzy just to save your feelings? Or do YOU want to fix the problems? If you make a bunch of mistakes and then make excuses, you are still wrong. Be mad if you want. It's your bike. Now, I was saving this photo for my CD...but let's cut through the BS. Use this and stop all the guessing about float level... This is not my original idea. I can't take the credit, but here is a good technique which I have photographed for use on the Savage. - Get a piece of surgical tubing, aquarium tubing, or windshield washer tubing. - Put petc0ck on PRI (unless you've mutilated it with that silly mod) or ON. - Hook up the tubing like this and open the drain screw. The level, IF it is correct, should be equal to the bowl flange gasket. In this photo the floats are a little bit low. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Carb_Float_Level.jpg Your problems don't have to be invisible. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Kropatchek on 06/11/07 at 14:57:52 AMEN ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D BTW: I did not know that trick, thanks Greg |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by justin_o_guy on 06/11/07 at 15:29:14 What jet do yoiu have in it? What jet do you need? I have a nice selection & can send a couple, though I have yet to pay for them & will have to pony up 5 bucks each when I go settle with the guy. I can get them in the mail tomorrow, I hope, let me know what ya want. BUT, I am keepin the 150, I have a spare 152.5. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/11/07 at 15:32:39 Kropatchek wrote:
I found that on a really good (technical) bike forum and now I keep a piece of the tubing in my toolbox all the time. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by borne2fly on 06/11/07 at 17:47:54 Ahh yes, the old water level trick. The ancient Egyptians used this method to level building foundations ('cept they dug trenches instead of using clear plastic tubing :) In fact, that's how I levelled the foundation for my house. Much more accurate than those laser-level-overpriced-startrek-surveyor's widgets. Greg is correct, this will tell you the exact fuel level in the float bowl. In fact, it can also be used to tell the fuel level in the gas tank too (but that's another topic). |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by justin_o_guy on 06/11/07 at 18:01:54 Geeze, if I had thought about that years ago, I coulda hooked one up to the kid on trips. Then I woulda known when it was time to stop. I guess if ya stop just before it gets to their eyes they are okay? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Don Steel on 06/12/07 at 05:20:00 Jeez Greg, some people you just can't help!!! :-[ I thought the advice was all good and no way malicious! :-/ |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/12/07 at 05:20:33 borne2fly wrote:
;D Well, only if you have your floats adjusted way too high. In which case, just change the bowl vent tubes to clear plastic and you're good to go. No need to open the drain screw then. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/12/07 at 05:22:06 justin_o_guy wrote:
You'd need 2 tubes for each kid. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/12/07 at 05:33:17 Don Steel wrote:
It was really intended as "No BS". All that I can say is, take it to a dealership to get it fixed. They won't give you advice or even care, but you'll know the true meaning of malicious when you get the bill. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/12/07 at 06:20:46 ah geez. Time for me to apologize. Broke the bike on Friday, got sick Friday night. Been too sick since to go out and work on it and I start getting defensive around hour 20 on non-functionality. New pilot screw and spacer are on order, I'm getting some air filter oil today and modding the airbox so I can fit the can on the bike. Gotta drain the crankcase and reset my float. Nice idea with the tubing, I like that. Gonna pass that along to my brother the avionics tech. He loves to teach airline mechanics new tricks that he learned in the Navy. Just have to figure out a way to mount tubing on our drain plug. #4 washers need the outside ground down to around 5.75mm to fit where the spacer was, right? I'm going to get some of them and see if I can come up with around the same spacing. Thanks for the advice Greg, I get defensive when I do something stupid and you give good advice when I do something stupid. Guess I need to remember that. Sorry, man. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Greg_650 on 06/12/07 at 07:16:08 I never said stupid, but I recognized ignorance. In 40 years, I've broken bolts, flooded carbs, pinched tubes, wrecked bikes, and a generous share of just plain stupid stuff before I learned the rules. All I try to do now is pass on that insight. Now, let's get that thing running right, okay? (after you get to feelin' better). :) |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/12/07 at 17:34:49 Prepare for hilarity. I have a question. Is it possible, say, for a person to...put the white spacer on the wrong side of the clip? And, would that person be horribly stupid if they can say, without a doubt, that that was the side the thing was on when the carb came off the bike the first time? I'm pretty FREAKIN sure that my spacer is below the clip. I.e. if the + sign were the needle with the clip on, my spacer was below the clip. Not above it. http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Mikuni_101web.jpg YEAH, I'VE NEVER SEEN THAT TILL JUST A FEW MINUTES AGO. Wonder why the bike's been running rich for freakin 10 years. 10 year statement based on person purchased from, and person purchased from by person purchased from. Also, I've never seen parts 7 or 8. wtf are they? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/12/07 at 17:44:38 In defense of myself, I am a fantastic reader, and pay great attention to detail. My clymer's manual probably shows it the right way, and I imagine the microfiche does as well. But, monkey disassemble, monkey reassemble same way. Even if it is wrong. I'd put the Leaning Tower of Pisa back up at exactly the same freakin angle. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/12/07 at 21:42:21 Interesting....especially since I posted that drawing :P If the spacer was below, where was the spring? I'm trying to visualize if it actually would change the needle height.... Oh, but it WOULD because then the end of the needle would stick up higher through the plate. Wouldn't it? The plate holding the spacer determines the height, right? So if the clip is on top then the needle moves up.... Wow. Just about like having no needle :P Good job! Here's a photo from my CD... http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Mikuni_CV_Slide_1866.jpg |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/12/07 at 22:29:47 Yeah. I don't have one of those springs. At all. Never have. I found that pic in one of your posts. The plate on top of my needle doesn't have a hole in the center, either. I'm betting some redneck screwed around with it. I'll take pics of how my slide is put together when I rectify this situation. Just gotta find something for a spring now. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/12/07 at 22:36:27 I'm also guessing that the lack of midrange power might be because the bike was running a BIT rich there. And my jet needle doesn't look anything like that. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by justin_o_guy on 06/13/07 at 04:51:38 Is it a Mikuni carb? Is the slide the right slide? Man, Someones been having a long idiotic game on ya. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/13/07 at 04:54:57 tuxedo wrote:
No spring, no hole, and the needle looks different.... The spring just allows the needle to guide itself and float in the jet, but no hole in the plate? I don't know if that plate has changed over the years or not. The appearance of the needle isn't as important as whether it matches the jet and the original carb setup. The jet needles have changed a couple times. The tapers can be different. I wonder if you might not do better to find a used carb and start over. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/13/07 at 07:16:11 Slide fits perfectly. It is a Mikuni carb. Soon as I yank that carb out I'm going to get some measurements on some things, hopefully someone can check against theirs to see if it's good. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/13/07 at 21:57:40 tuxedo wrote:
What measurements are you gonna take? Calipers or micrometers in metric? You know that a 150 main jet is 1.5 MM right? Check the carb specs in a manual or the tech section...that's much easier :P |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/14/07 at 20:49:08 okokok....so, here's the state of the bike still waiting on spacer and pilot screw. Cut a piece of wire insulation to about 2.4mm and put it in. Discovered something neat. The reason I've never seen that spring or washer is because whoever put the space on the wrong side did so roughly, and wedged the washer that sits on the spring down in the slide, jamming it. Third, local shop identified the needle I had, but didn't tell me what it was. They were, oddly, slightly happy to see it and traded me with a 5c17 that they had in the bottom of a toolbox somewhere. FREEBIE! Needle jet is an x-6, so that's cool. Bike won't start now, but I'm THINKING it MIGHT be the pilot screw needing to be adjusted. After I get it in there I'll be able to tell if I need a new pilot jet. Other ideas on why it won't start include the float height, but it's too late to screw with it. Really waiting on that spacer and the pilot screw. Anyone have a good method for removing the pilot screw after it is stripped out to the point of silliness? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/14/07 at 22:06:17 You are back to the point where you gotta think (as you said)...Spark Air, Fuel. The air hasn't changed. The spark hasn't changed. Do you have gas in the bowl? Did you try to choke it when you started it? That will enrichen it enough to start. Needle has nothing to do with starting really. Gotta get that first fire. After that it is just fine tuning. Did you clean that plug? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/15/07 at 06:15:59 No, I didn't clean that plug, but last I had it out it looked spotless. I think the reason I may have had trouble starting the second time was that I had flooded it out. I did get it to start and run last night. Just for a few seconds, and it sounded a lot better than it did Friday after the spacer fiasco. I'm not used to having to choke to start it. When I had, for all intents and purposes, a brass rod kinda sitting in my needle's position, it was rich enough to start in the arctic without choke. I'm going to run through the big three this morning and see if it was just that it was dark and I was a little beered. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/15/07 at 09:01:28 tuxedo wrote:
Spotlessly black, just like you like it? Too bad the plugs aren't self cleaning :P |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by justin_o_guy on 06/15/07 at 11:08:09 Greg, those pics are pro quality. All your pics are. What camera are you using? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/15/07 at 11:59:36 no, spotlessly clean. shiny metal. new. glenn started and idled a bit this morning, sounded a lot nicer. only problem now, i believe, is uncharged battery. gonna see tonight after work. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/15/07 at 12:08:10 justin_o_guy wrote:
What? And give away all my secrets? I use a Canon EOS 10D. I wish I had the newer version, but what can I say. Thank you btw. Feel free to see the website I'm setting up by clicking the link in my sig line...still has work to be done, but you'll get the idea. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/15/07 at 12:09:36 tuxedo wrote:
If it started, why would you think the battery is uncharged? |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/15/07 at 12:27:02 I jumpstarted it. Had a really weak start on it's own legs and died. Ran a good bit longer when it was hooked up to the car. Is the pilot screw hard to remove with a screw extractor? I don't know if my new one will be in the mail today or not, but if it is I'd like to get it replaced as soon as I can, just don't know if the screw extractor will work well in brass. Also, if the needle seats too low, would that make for a difficult start? I added 2.6mm of spacer(wire insulation), but don't know if that would have any affect at all on the starting/idle. My understanding was that the needle was midrange only. I did have to add a bit of choke on the starts this morning, which leads me to believe I'm about right on the spacer. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/16/07 at 06:42:14 tuxedo wrote:
Is the pilot screw broken? Why does it need to come out. Though the different jets overlap in the general scheme of things, the spacer has nothing to do with starting. That is the pilot and enrichment (choke) circuits. One bit of thought...the jet needle works with the needle jet and they control flow through the main jet...to a point. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/16/07 at 08:21:37 Well, since I've been meaning to do it for a while, I downsized the main jet to a 150. Works great. Got Glenn started and running, I had been flooded, in addition to a bad ground on the coil and a float that was twisted. I beleive my float needle needs replacing, has a faint ring around it and seems to be allowing fuel to flow after shut-off. What doesn't help is a leaky petc0ck. Luckily, the float needle isn't letting enough flow to fill the crankcase, and the petc0ck leak is a drop every now and then. But if you park it for 30 minutes to check something in a book, drops really add up. The pilot screw is stripped all to hell. When I got the bike it was stripped, and I didn't help that any. New one is already in the mail. If you overtighten the pilot screw, can you break it on the inside? I ask that question because Glenn is idling like a top fuel dragster, which is cool sounding, but not cool. Plug is, oddly, not reading rich. Then again, I've been checking the plug after interstate rides on that new 150 main jet. I'm thinking leaner on the pilot jet might help, but until I can get the new pilot screw in and see if the mixture is all that's wrong, it'd be kinda useless for me to re-jet. I got home at 5:30 yesterday and didn't get the bike going until 12:05. I've traced wiring, replaced grounds, drained the float bowl about a million times, and re-adjusted my float height more times than I care to say. Rode 60 miles with three stops after Glenn started. Only ran into one issue, but that was mentioned above. The solution was pretty easy. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Greg on 06/16/07 at 12:51:05 The fuel mixture is a ratio that needs to be the same through all RPM ranges. Therefore if you think about the original setup as a starting point, any jetting changes need to be done equally in all throttle ranges. Go up one size on the main and increase the pilot and idle the same too. So, with that in mind, I wouldn't decrease the pilot jet size. Yes, the pilot jet can get broken if turned in too tightly. Might also damage the seat too. When you take it out, make sure it has a tip. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/20/07 at 18:53:50 Update: had the bike running over the weekend, albeit with a really horrid idle, sounded like a top fuel dragster. Got back home ok, no worries. Had to drain the float bowl, clear out the cylinder, etc to start it. Got a new float needle in it from a parts bin at the local indy cycle shop. Adjusted the float to spec. WooHoo, no overflow sitting still. Turns out a lowered float with a bad float needle will still overflow. Hope that holds true. Removed stock airbox, Uni-filtered it, re-ran the wiring. Turns out, just in case anyone was wondering, there are two sets of white and two sets of black Molexes with only one lead inside. Drained my battery figuring that one out. Bike is....together for me. No tank, saddle, battery, etc. After the battery charges overnight on the trickle down, I'll be giving it another shot in the AM. Had to take the carb to a machine shop to get the idle air adjustment screw replaced. Good thing, too. If it took a professional machinist 45 minutes to replace the screw, I had no business even attempting it. Hopefully the new screw, plus my new-found realization that the choke has even ONE more notch to go into, plus the CORRECT spacer on the CORRECT side(thanks previous owner), and the spring/washer working correctly to seat the needle down....well, you get the idea. Been a heckuva week. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by Savage_Rob on 06/21/07 at 04:26:01 Yup, that rubber tip on the float needle is important. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/26/07 at 00:38:16 Turns out: Problem WAS invisible. If you didn't pay attention to the little black O-Ring around the needle valve assembly. This needs to be added to everyone's archive of knowledge for future overflow issues where needle/petc0ck are not the issue. My little O-Ring was worn smooth with the brass of the needle valve assembly. Last time I cleaned it, turns out I removed the little bit of rubber that was sealing it. HELP! o-ring assortments do have the necassary o-ring to replace it. Just make sure it's gas-friendly, not oil-friendly. Glenn is now running perfect on idle, lean in the middle(stock spacer is in the CORRECT position now, have to get some washers and tune there), and perfect on top end. Well, probably could be richer on the top end. Schedule 40 vent pipe at 1.5 inches has the perfect OD on couplings to mount into the carb for a turned out intake. Pictures will follow sometime in the next 24 hours. As a side note, if you put 1/2 gallon of gas in the tank and remove the screen from the petc0ck, then drain the carb four times to find out the o-ring is screwy, you don't have much gas left in the tank. That's a good time to have friends who are awake at 11:30 PM and don't mind bringing you gasoline and Dr. Pepper. Also, if you have a tube in your ear, have someone else blow through the gas line to see if the float needle seats properly. Otherwise, the air leaking through the tube in your ear feels oddly normal, along with the air leaking through the gas line because that O-ring is shot. |
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Title: Re: Invisible Problem. Post by tuxedo on 06/26/07 at 01:08:28 Oh, also, my slide was filthy. Took 400 grit through 2000 grit to it to get it polished and turned it 1/4 turn. THrottle is a LOT more responsive. When I say filthy....I mean it had a LITTLE bit of silver showing. Mostly black though. |
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