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Message started by starfox on 05/23/07 at 15:24:47

Title: Tackling Oil Leak
Post by starfox on 05/23/07 at 15:24:47

I have read and reviewed most everything here ref tackling the infamous oil leaks that occure with the Savage.

I would like those with the experience to flag for me the one or two items that could cause me a problem as I tear down the bike. I have the Clymer manual and help from my brother. Neither of us have done work on a motorcycle engine only cars.

I have a 96 that I bought last summer with only 4400 miles on it. I'm assuming the head gasket and poss. some other gasket/seals have dry rotted. I was planing on replacing all of them without inspecting them first. Would you all agree?

Thanks for any suggestions or cautions you may have.

Sue

P.S. Oh and thanks to whoever solved my inablity to lock my front fork. I used the trick and it did indeed work.

Title: Re: Tackling Oil Leak
Post by Reelthing on 05/23/07 at 16:26:08

If just went in replaced and sealed the rubber plug a couple years ago on a '95 >24k miles seems to be holding very well - there are several other head cap related gaskets - say on the bolts and the oblong rubber oring that are worth ordering when you order the rubber plug - just follow the directions in gregs plug replacement tech write up - and some added notes at the bottom and you should do fine - allow for 4-6 hours start to finish so you have time for a beer or two along the way -

be on TDCC, and use little short wrenches

read this post - all of it:

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1099227295

Title: Re: Tackling Oil Leak
Post by Kropatchek on 05/24/07 at 13:36:29

CLymer book
Watch out for the following mistakes:
Engine rotation : Same as the wheels
Seal the rubber plug with the same stuff you use for the headcover. And further:
Dry the blind tapped holes with a pipecleaner to prevent an hydraulic lock.
Stick to the torque values ( torque in 2 or 3 stages)
Use NEW gaskets and O-rings.

Title: Re: Tackling Oil Leak
Post by justin_o_guy on 05/24/07 at 17:32:24

Kropatchek wrote:

Dry the blind tapped holes with a pipecleaner to prevent an hydraulic lock.

If you have compressed air, or just slowly run a bolt in & dry off the squeezed out oil, whatever, But I didnt see this recommended anywhere, just got lucky & saw it needed done before it went back together. If ya dont do this, the BEST that will happen is you will run oil over the liquid gasket, & I am not in favor of that.

Title: Re: Tackling Oil Leak
Post by Max_Morley on 05/24/07 at 17:39:23

I got long shaft double ended Q-tips type swabs at Radio shack when I wanted to get the oil from the bottom of the blind head cover screw holes. If there is much oil in it it can hydro lock before all the threads are engaged and stip out the top part of the soft aluminum threads. Been there done that. I second using all new copper/rubber washers on the required fasterners (essentally the ones that have oil pressure on them - on showing in the picture is for the compression release shaft so you need 1 less than the picture shows as we do not have to remove that part. ), the pear shaped o-ring and a minumum amount of gasket sealer on the flange of the cover. I used grey moto-seal last time and it seems to be working fine. Max

Title: Re: Tackling Oil Leak
Post by Digger on 07/09/09 at 21:47:04

0E223B1C0E2C312F263A430 wrote:

....I used grey moto-seal last time and it seems to be working fine. Max

Hi Max,

I've heard mixed reviews on that stuff. Does it seal the head cover well? Does it seal the head cover plug well? Is it easy to remove come replacement time?

TIA!