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Message started by dwhas3 on 05/12/07 at 19:26:04

Title: valve noise?
Post by dwhas3 on 05/12/07 at 19:26:04

i bought my wife an o5 s40 with 900 miles on it. after warmup you can here the valves tapping. is this normal? it runs great. how hard are they to adjust? thank's, dave wasserman

Title: Re: valve noise?
Post by justin_o_guy on 05/12/07 at 19:48:18

If I remember right it's time to check them, but you should be able to hear them. The way they are designed they just make a tick, tick,tick. If you don't hear them, they are too tight & damage will follow. The adjustment is kinda tedious, till you get it down how to do it easy. IUt took me 4 passes to finally figure the easiest way for me.I said "for me" because there are several ways to skin a cat & some folks use slightly different approaches in deciding what type of tools to use. My preferemce is a 3 & 4 thousandths feeled gauge blade taken from the gauge housing, with a 90 degree bend about an inch from the end & a "ski tip" rolled into the end, to make getting it between the valve top & adjuster easier & the 90 gives me a handle. A 10 mm end wrench & an offset flat blade screwdriver to make the adjustment & tighten it down. I made my own offset since the one from sears had a flat blade on one end & phillips on the other. I was gonna mangle it but decided it would be handy on the carb with the phillips offset I can pop the ends off the carb where it is.

Welcome to the board. You gonna love it & the bike.
Others may have ideas you prefer over mine, whatever works for you is always the best.( but, I will say, anyone doing it any different than what I suggest is OBVIOUSLY wrong!) J/k! Really, whatever works for you. It's easy. The seat & tank removal gets tedious, but there are mods to make that easier. Who has the pics of the long allen head bolts with the double nutted jam nuts for the front seat bolts? Some tanks come off without being drained, some don't. Mine does :D, hopefully yours will too. Popping the cover out of the middle of the left side( as you are seated on it) case can be a bit odd, but I found a big washer with a small diameter hole & stuck a bolt thru that. Works way to easy. If youve been down gravelly or sandy roads, blowing out around the spark plug can be a good idea before you remove it, because crud can be there just waiting to fall into the cylinder. If you dont have compressed air, maybe computer cleaner compressed air in a can would be in your future. Just shile a light & see what's there before ya pull the plug. I didnt & had a bit of a job using grease on a thin piece of plasic fishing crunchy crap for quite a while, then just hit it with compressed air & some of the same gritty stuff I saw around the plug hole came OUT of the cylinder, so I am glad I took the time. Now, I Look first, I live on an oil /sand road & in the summer, it chucks crud at my face. No one else may have thios problem, I just want to make sure no one messes up a cylinder for no reason.

Title: Re: valve noise?
Post by georgekathe on 05/12/07 at 21:34:37

not done my valves on my savage so can't add much to justin's great description other than my old recollection of adjusting valves on other bikes was the fun & games getting the piston @ TDC (used to keep on going just past it for me) welcome to site by the way!

Title: Re: valve noise?
Post by verslagen1 on 05/12/07 at 22:15:42

You need to take the little slotted cover off the left side engine cover (normally next to your ankle).  Take a 17mm socket and spin the engine in the same direction the wheels roll (CCW).  The crank shaft has a notch cut in it (white paint) and it will line up with a notch cut on the inside of the cover at TDC.  There are 2 TDC's and it's very important to get the right one.  TDC after the intake stroke.  So spin it around a couple of times to get a visual on how much the rockers move.  After the intake goes up and down, get down on your knees and line up the notches.   ;D

also check this out
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1151938664;start=1#1

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