|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Best set of tools /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1177904780 Message started by Doc_Holliday on 04/29/07 at 20:46:20 |
|
Title: Best set of tools Post by Doc_Holliday on 04/29/07 at 20:46:20 Ok, id like to start workin on my bike a little on my own. I dont have a very good set of tools at all. If you had to buy a small set of tools for easy jobs what would it be? I need something not very complicated, not very expensive and that works well with the savage. Thanks! -DOC |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by verslagen1 on 04/29/07 at 21:21:14 Buy what you need when you need it. Also you can buy the most expensive set available and maybe it will never break. But you'll never appreciate why it's expensive. Buy a cheap set, break a few first. I've done well with some really cheap sets. And I really appreciate the craftman set that I have. At some point you'll use any and all of this list. Basic: Combo wrench set ( box on one side open on the other) Socket set, 3/8 is usable in most places, 1/4 is lighter and smaller (good for cinching up but not for torque) Allen wrench set screwdriver set Feeler gages Clymers or SSM Advanced: Torque wrench 3/8 crankcase inspection port tool (see setting tdc) pliers, diagonal cutters, channel lock, vice grips Happy wrenching ;D |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by mickthelimey on 04/29/07 at 23:03:26 Make sure you buy a metric set,and buy an exta #10 for general stuff it seems like I use the @10 more than any other,seat and gas tank just to name two items. |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by praetorian on 04/30/07 at 03:33:07 +1 on verslagen's list. Also, though, make sure that you spend the tiny bit more on the Allen wrench set to get the ones that have the small ball end on them that let you be a little off-set and still use them. I also would say that the torque wrench should be in the basic category, not the advanced since you need it for so much. Not even supposed to change the spark plug without torquing it to the correct reading when putting it back in. The problem is that you don't want to get a cheap torque wrench. I would stay away from the ones that have the small bar that runs up them to a scale on the outside. They loose calibration very quickly and easily from ANYTHING bumping into it. This is the one that I have: http://tinyurl.com/2b6zdq |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by youzguyz on 04/30/07 at 05:07:05 I'd add a 24mm socket, if the set does not come with one. (unlikely that it would). That's for the rear axle.. needed to adjust belt tension, or to remove the rear wheel for any purpose. You CAN use the knuckle buster wrench from the tool kit, if you really want to. |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by mornhm on 04/30/07 at 05:11:57 I would put the torque wrench in the basic tool set. If you don't have experience, you don't have a feel for how tight things should be. Don't forget a box to put them in. Nice additions to the basic list would be: a selection of ball peen hammers and a small sledge. There are times when a hammer is the proper tool. Also I find myself using stubby and offset screwdrivers often on MC's. I agree with verslagen on buying as you find the need, and +1 on the craftsman mechanics sets. I started with one of these back in high school and still have some of them. I still use the original tool box also. |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by tuxedo on 04/30/07 at 06:34:05 If you go to one of the big box stores, or wal-mart, look through the kits with their own molded plastic case. Guy I work with has a Crescent mechanic's kit he paid 80 bux for that is, I gotta say, very complete. Really and truly you're going to need regular and deep well metric sockets of 3/8 and 1/4 drive 4", 6", and 8" extensions for 3/8 and 1/4 drive 3/8 to 1/4 drive converter 3/8 drive universal joint 18mm spark plug wrench boxed end and offset wrenches(I never use offsets, but I always want to buy em) metric Allen wrench set about a BAJILLION zip ties JB Weld black tape plumber's teflon tape(easier than loc-tite) Red RTV a small impact driver screwdrivers of various sizes, Phillips #2 #3, square #3, etc Spark plug gapper. I have a 1/2" torque wrench, but it's for my wheel bolts on my Audi. Get a deep well 17mm and a regular 32mm in whatever size ratchet you like so you can pop your rear wheel loose. Start with something simple, like a really good mechanic's tool kit from Stanley, Crescent, or something. Don't go too expensive, that way you won't feel bad if you change a spark plug at a gas station and lose a screwdriver. CHEAP RATCHETS SUCK. Avoid them like a syphilitic wh0re. |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by azjay on 04/30/07 at 07:04:58 craftsman! tools are forever! they do wear out, and you can replace a craftsman on sunday. with that being said, never buy poor quality(cheap) tools, they'll round off bolts, strip holes, break knuckles. SK, THORSEN, SNAP-ON, MATCO, are excellent tools too, more expensive up front, but less need to replace for wear, and difficult to find on a weekend. a basic tool set should include; metric box end wrench set, metric 3/8" socket set, 3/8"x18mm deep socket, metric 1/4" socket set, metric allen set, screwdriver set, torx set(socket or screwdriver type), small ball peen hammer, diagonal cutters, crescent wrenchs (6",8",10"), and add to the set as the needs arise. the crescent wrenches can fill in for the two wrench needs on some bolts and accomodate the bolts that are outside the sizes of the box end set. |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by justin_o_guy on 04/30/07 at 08:40:08 I have all kinds of tools, expensive & cheap. Some places cheap tools are fine, somepleces, Not so fine. I havent seen a place on the bike that requires the finest of tools. It's not put togethjer that tight. here's a list of tyhings I am sure will make your day easier. Needle nose pliers, for hose clamps, small channel locks, for the speedo, small crescent wrench, for backup on duble nut spots. A full set of allen wrenches, OR at least 2 1/2 mm, 4, 5, & 6 mm. 21/2 is for rear light lens. 10 mm 1/4 drive sockets, short & deep, just for convenience, a wobble attachment & a couple of different length extensions. 8mm socket for pulling case off.I like having a big enough crescent to actuate the clutch arm as it goes into the case, so I can release the clutch cable without disturbing any adjustments, just open the little door on the inverted saddle the cable is in & (using the wrench) swing the arm up so the cable is slack & pull it out. 17 mm socket for the r/f footpeg mount & a 12 mm backup, socket is much easier than endwrench, due to shape of area. I have a Proto 1/2" torque wrench, but at such low torque settings it reall isnt that accurate. Torque wrencehes arent very accurate at the very bottom or top of their scales. I went with the "El Cheapo" Sears torsion bar 3/8ths inch. Under $30.00 & will do the job fine as far as I am concerned. I always had a bad attitude about that design, but for this work I think it will be okay. The torque sttings in the book say things like, 10 to 11.5 foot pounds, low enough to not worry much either way.& 65 to 79.5 pounds/foot, heck, cant be out of callibration that far. & 36 to 50.5 pounds on another. I think itb will be fine. A flashlight is very good to have O course & a magnetic screwdriver with bits in the handle for quick changes. Also, I use mine to retrieve the feeler gauge blades I always drop when I am doing the valves. A set of feeler gauges, 3 4 & 5 thousandths are what we need, I remove those 3 from the rest & bend a 90 in them about an inch back from the end & then roll a ski tip into the very tip, so it goes under the valve adjuster more easily. With an offset screwdriver( anothe 2.50 at sears, or less at the pawn shop) if you can find one that a slotted type on both ends you will be ahead, you can control the valve adjuster while yoiu tighten the set nut. I adjusted the valves 3 times before I found thins. Now it's a lot easier. A 3/8ths to 1/4 adapter will let the torque wrench work with the 1/4 sockets. Using the wobble will affect the reading on the torque wrench, or so I hear, so I dont use them together. The bikes tools have what is needed for the rear axle, so not going there. Eventually a 30 & 32 mm socket will be needed for clutch & cam chain. Small chissel & decent punch for straightening out folded tabs on keeper washers, then too. An inexpensive digital readout set of 6" callipers is very nice to have. I think a dependable set (digital) is less expensive than a DEPendable dial calliper. The works of the dial being more sophisticated than an electronic readout. My opinion, based on not one report or statement of fact, anyone else have a thought there? I have a digital 6" calliper I gave about $20.00 & it does mm & inch. A couple of wrenches that fit the spokes would be a good idea. 15/64ths fits, but a metric size might too, I have to go so Later all! |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by verslagen1 on 04/30/07 at 09:06:35 I checked where my 'cheap set' was made... Japan. So you can guess how old it is to be cheap. Regarding ball end allen wrenches, don't use them to torque or break stuff loose. ;D |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by praetorian on 04/30/07 at 12:59:08 verslagen1 wrote:
AGREED .... that is why the ball end is on the long side.... short side is for torquing things tight and for breaking things loose. ;D |
|
Title: Re: Best set of tools Post by Doc_Holliday on 04/30/07 at 13:47:23 Great replies thanks. Im going to read over this better when i have time tonight and go buy me a set of tools soon. Thanks again to everyone. -DOC |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |