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Message started by tbalam on 04/21/07 at 12:46:05

Title: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by tbalam on 04/21/07 at 12:46:05

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;num=1176524441;start=8#8

Greg made a statement on this thread that the head pipe had a reducer ring. Soooo I had the exhaust off today and decided to take it out. I have to say it is a pain to get it out. Also, the inner pipe of the bouble wall reduces down a bit just after the ring, so it doesn't open up as much as it could if the pipe were straight. I don't have a micrometer for deep in pipes, but as far as I could tell it is about 1.375", an 1/8" less than the raask but about an1/8" bigger than stock. If there wasn't the inner reduction then it would be 1.5" ish.

With all of that said, I took it out and subjectively speaking it made a fair bit improvement in the how the bike pulls. Mind you I have a the chain conversion with a 2.50 ratio, so i can feel if i gain or lose power, by how much it dogs. It might not be as noticeable with stock configuration.



Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by Greg_650 on 04/21/07 at 13:27:20


tbalam wrote:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;num=1176524441;start=8#8

Greg made a statement on this thread that the head pipe had a reducer ring. Soooo I had the exhaust off today and decided to take it out. I have to say it is a pain to get it out. Also, the inner pipe of the bouble wall reduces down a bit just after the ring, so it doesn't open up as much as it could if the pipe were straight. I don't have a micrometer for deep in pipes, but as far as I could tell it is about 1.375", an 1/8" less than the raask but about an1/8" bigger than stock. If there wasn't the inner reduction then it would be 1.5" ish.

With all of that said, I took it out and subjectively speaking it made a fair bit improvement in the how the bike pulls. Mind you I have a the chain conversion with a 2.50 ratio, so i can feel if i gain or lose power, by how much it dogs. It might not be as noticeable with stock configuration.



Man, I am proud of you!!!  I wondered if someone would take that and run with it.

I had thought about cutting it out of the stock header but I  had someone that "said" they wanted to buy it.

Anyway, you just increased your exhaust output...and still have the double wall so it won't turn blue.

Why don't you explain how you did it, and claim title to your first original performance mod...:P

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by justin_o_guy on 04/21/07 at 14:07:14

Yea, T, splain what ya did. I am getting good at snapping the header off. I think I may be running a tad rich at 155 in the main jet slot, so if I can run a bit more air thru, maybe it will be Juuust right.

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by tbalam on 04/21/07 at 15:16:35

Ok here we go.

I don't have access to a dremel, would have been way easier if I did.  I used a 3" cut off wheel on my cordless drill. It took a lot of recharges, thank god for two batteries.

First, I took a hacksaw blade with one of those small handles, and cut the reducer ring.
I cut down the cutoff wheel, using a pair of wire cutters to a little over an 1.5", so that it would just pass through the opening. I used a socket that fit through the exhaust opening to find the right size then trimmed the wheel to fit the OD of the socket. On high speed I ran the cutoff wheel around on the inside grinding off a layer metal. I rotated the drill to changed the angle of the grinding wheel continuously, while grinding. Similar to what you do with a drill bit to enlarge a hole. It works very smoothly due to the shape of the inside of the pipe. After 4 wheels I started to see the weld line. Once I had the line about an inch long, I took a hammer and old screw driver and broke it loose, along the afore mention hacksaw cut. I continued grinding and breaking it loose as I went. After I saw the first weldline  it took about an hour, again with proper tools one could do this in significantly less time.

The nice thing about the cuttoff wheel is that it gave a nice smooth finish and shape to the inside of the header pipe after it was done. Removed all the burrs and such. For whatever reason the reducer ring has a ridge in it that extends the length of the ring. See Greg's post at the above link he mentions a little knob weld on the side.

When in doubt cut the reducer ring farther inside so that you don't cut the double wall, you can always shape it afterwards.

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by tbalam on 04/21/07 at 15:21:01

I too am running a 155 and thought is was a tad rich, seems to be better now, but I havn't ridden it a ton to know.

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by Greg_650 on 04/21/07 at 15:21:41

That's great....this is a first and a second...

Don't believe that I ever heard of anyone using a hacksaw blade to cut a cutoff wheel.

Once again.  Salute!
8)

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by tbalam on 04/21/07 at 15:24:50


Greg_650 wrote:
That's great....this is a first and a second...

Don't believe that I ever heard of anyone using a hacksaw blade to cut a cutoff wheel.

Once again.  Salute!
8)

sorry wasn't clear about that I used a pair of wire cutters, just nipped a little off at a time. I'll edit the above post.

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by Greg_650 on 04/21/07 at 15:28:43


tbalam wrote:

sorry wasn't clear about that I used a pair of wire cutters, just nipped a little off at a time. I'll edit the above post.


Naw...leave it.  The clarification makes it even better.

Wire cutters to cut a cutoff wheel....

If you have any of that wheel left, it just might fit in your intake port too :D


Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by barry68v10 on 04/21/07 at 15:35:02

So, did removing the reducer DECREASE low-end grunt as we postulated it would?  I would expect it to increase high RPM HP...

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by tbalam on 04/21/07 at 15:36:57

I only noticed an improvement throughout, but it is all subjective, and might be because I WANTED to feel a difference.

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by barry68v10 on 04/21/07 at 16:09:31

tbalam, with your higher gear ratio, I'd expect you'd notice more than anyone...if you perceive an improvement in 5th at, say, 55 mph...I'd say that's good enough for me ;D

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by justin_o_guy on 04/21/07 at 17:30:20

I keep making changes & afterwards I realize I hadnt actualy timed the thing so I could measure the change, good or bad. & I too realize I WANT to see a positive change, so may well be in the process of giving myself colo-rectal cancer, by blowing smoke up my own Bu##.. Are my eyes a smoky color yet? I guess if cutting it out is a mistake we can stick it back in. I know a good welder. Maybe, if I mess up the stock header, it would be a good time to get a single walled one & go play.. just sayin, maybe,

Congratulations Tbalam, Ther have been some serious new groundbreaking mods recently, mighty cool..

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by tbalam on 04/21/07 at 18:06:49

I just took it for a longer ride 50 miles or so, and i definately notice a difference at 3500 or so rpm. it'll also put the cheeks a bit farther in the seat. i definatly notice it on take off and when accelerating at speed.

i dont know that i can go any faster, but i can get it there faster. just what i like.

Justin, i think this is a fairly innocuous mod. i dont think it will hurt performance in any way, and at worst wont do anything.

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by justin_o_guy on 04/21/07 at 20:53:07

wellthenImgonnadoit! Might do it tomorrow,,

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by Greg_650 on 04/21/07 at 21:11:29


tbalam wrote:
I just took it for a longer ride 50 miles or so, and i definately notice a difference at 3500 or so rpm. it'll also put the cheeks a bit farther in the seat. i definatly notice it on take off and when accelerating at speed.

i dont know that i can go any faster, but i can get it there faster. just what i like.

Justin, i think this is a fairly innocuous mod. i dont think it will hurt performance in any way, and at worst wont do anything.

Exactly what the Raask (with the larger ID) does.  I didn't gain much at the bottom, but at mid range the engine just seems to start breathing better all the way up.  It sounds happier :)

The comparison I have is with my spouse and her Trapp in a straight line.  Hers has really good grunt at the bottom and will leap ahead, but once mine gets to 3500 or so, it's all good.  I will pass her every time :P

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by tbalam on 04/22/07 at 14:48:52

sounds about right, makes the chain conversion even that much more fun. In a perfect world I'd like to get back to the grunt that I had with the belt drive and still keep the "extra gear" I get with the chain conversion. I am getting closer. All these little things add up.


Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by justin_o_guy on 04/22/07 at 20:23:41

Well, I DO have aDremel ( like) tool, I have a air powered die grinder, rotary burs ( files), Good lighting, & I'll tell ya Balam, you have my respect! This is Tuff, I have wiped out a sack full of little cut off disks for the Dremel & I am nearly done, One broke & slapped me in the corner of my left eye, went in the bathroom & dragged a chunk of it out, still kinda smarts. I have no idea how it got past my glasses, but it got by & it was whistling. I dont see me getting rid of all of that reverse cone. I wont get it all the way back to the ring that crushes the header squish gasket. I'll get pretty close, closer than the  ID of the inner header wall, for sure.. sure hope this is worth the effort.

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by Reelthing on 04/22/07 at 21:19:13

The fiber reinforced ones or the little brittle brown ones - these seem to cut better but they will come apart and stick in walls of the garage

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by justin_o_guy on 04/23/07 at 04:22:01

The brittle ones, heck, if ya bump it with a funger it folds over, 1/40th of an inch thick,, OWELL<, that's NOT the bad news, the bad news IS, I parted the inner wall from the outter wall. NOw, I take it to a welder or buy a single walled header the Trapp will go on.. OOOman, I feel like a pro level Doofus. As amazing as it may seem,, I didnt even get mad, I just looked at it & said Ugghhh! Bummer! & went & took a shower. I planted stuff in the garden & did that on the header & by the time I was done messing that up I was so tired I dindt have steam enough to get mad.. That, & well, I am sure you have all heard the "Little voice" before. Well, Mine was telling me this was gonna be a bad idea, but I had already started so I decided to see it thru,, ( Game show buzzer sound here) , Bad idea...


The eyeball is fine this morning. My butt is a bit chapped over messing that header up,

Suggestions anyone?

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by Greg_650 on 04/23/07 at 05:14:51


Reelthing wrote:
The fiber reinforced ones or the little brittle brown ones - these seem to cut better but they will come apart and stick in walls of the garage


I broke a 4" side grinder wheel a couple weeks ago, while cutting a stainless steel bolt....I was making a stud for the Plug Door modification.

I know, I know...not the approved way to use it.  The wheel was quick to point that out.  But I was still able to use the remaining off balanced part of the wheel to finish the cut and make the door.

Note to self:  Use a better vise.


Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by barry68v10 on 04/23/07 at 06:20:35


Quote:
My butt is a bit chapped over messing that header up,  

Suggestions anyone?


Yup, buy the Raask  ;D

Title: Re: head pipe reducer ring removal
Post by Greg_650 on 04/23/07 at 11:29:40


barry68v10 wrote:


Yup, buy the Raask  ;D

Good Point 8)

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