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Message started by grim on 03/26/07 at 21:35:20

Title: Good Grief!!!!
Post by grim on 03/26/07 at 21:35:20

I have been pulling on the top half of the cylinder head and cannot get it off..(while the engine is mounted on the frame!). That one back right bolt is way too long. I saw one of you did this...HOW??? Do I really have to remove the engine? Such a pain and wasted night.....

And I WILL be able to put the cam chain back with no marks, Correct? The chain just fell down to the bottom...?

Thanks all

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by justin_o_guy on 03/26/07 at 21:44:34

Now that the chain is laying down, the cam & crank have no idea where the other is. All ya gotta do is, pop the head off, bring the piston to the top lining up the marks inside th left cover, when the head goes back on, just line the cam marks up according to the instructions & Voila, it oughta be timed. All this according to a guy who JUST could be wrong. Folks? Am I? Remember, while you have all this stuff apart, it may be a good idea to tweak the rear cam chain guide, so as to keep the tensioner in further.This is a new thing being tried & is unproven over the long haul, but seems reasonable that it would work.

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by verslagen1 on 03/26/07 at 23:18:47

Grim, some frames are too small to get the head off without removing the engine.

You might try to remove the engine mounting screws and let the engine sag and try again. Or rocking it to one side to get that screw. Just a thought, haven't done it myself. Give me a couple weeks, I might need to know from you.

Purpose for removing head? If it was just a look see. Might be easier to just put it back together if you don't want to fight it.

I don't know if the counter balence has a particular timing with the firing order, but I don't think it does. should be easy to put back together align the timing marks as stated by justin and shown in the manuals.

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by barry68v10 on 03/27/07 at 03:50:06

Don't know if this will save you time in the long run, but you don't need to take the head off to find TDC. You can remove the plug and put a wooden dowel rod in the hole to find TDC. Just make sure the engine is on the correct stroke, not 360 degrees out.

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by justin_o_guy on 03/27/07 at 06:48:17

I thought since the thing fires at the top of every stroke it wouldn't matter about the piston, just put it at TDC & set the cam in it at TDC compression & that's it/.

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by grim on 03/27/07 at 07:01:00

Removing head and cylinder to replace the bottom and middle gaskets. I had a leak, and so just replacing.....everything. I did find my cam chain tensioner had no spring action. That was a good find. The spring was cut short.

The pain-in-the-butt bolt is about 1cm too long. Will just remove engine. Any suggestions while I am this far in the engine?

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by justin_o_guy on 03/27/07 at 07:13:52

Well, Maybe a few mods? Ther's talk of a fatter piston & then theres the hardening of the bore that,, Lancer? has on his to get max life & minimum friction. Seems that if a guy did those he could go to the chain & get the high speed RPM's down to a comfortable spot & still keep the bottom end performance up, Specially if the cam got replaced & the carb/exhaust tuning was good. Darn shame to be doin all this now.

This IS an opportunity to get figured oiut how to get iin & out of the engine so IF you decide to do those mods, you can do it with minimum downtime.

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by barb36jack31 on 03/28/07 at 05:41:49

Saw a post here stating that the engine fires at the top of each stroke. Is that correct? And if so, how come?

Jack H.

Title: Re: Good Grief!!!!
Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/07 at 07:03:36

It does fire every TDC, the reason was posted not too long ago. One of the Cam chain threads I believe.

;D