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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Went and saw the savage today.... /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1165192413 Message started by praetorian on 12/03/06 at 16:33:33 |
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Title: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by praetorian on 12/03/06 at 16:33:33 Well, I went and checked out the Savage this morning (See Here (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;num=1164737995) )and here is what I found. It is a 1996, not a 1998 and it has been in storage for a little over 4 years, not 2. It was VERY dirty (4 years of dust and dirt). It only has 8117 miles on it. Windshield is brand new... tires both look brand new... he told me the rear was replaced just before he stored it. Paint is in perfect condition. No dents, dings, scratches, or scuffs. Now for whats wrong. All the chrome on the bike has tiny rust spots on it. The tank also has a layer of very fine rust in it. These are the only 2 things we found. My wife and I talked about it and we are going to buy it. We are getting it for $650 and foresee a few hundred more in it. If she doesn't like riding it when I get done restoring it to its former glory, then we will sell it in the spring when motorcycle prices go up. The tank rust should be easy.... Just pour in some WD-40... slosh it around and let it sit for a couple days rolling the tank each day to let it sit in WD-40. All the rust should come right off then. Does anyone know a good way to get the rust spots off the chrome? |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Trippah on 12/03/06 at 16:41:05 Good luck with the project. I'm not sure about the WD-40. That stuff makes a gunk-like slurpee I think. I would look into the tank liner chemicals available. Of course, if you've had luck with the WD-40 before, go for it. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Dynobob on 12/03/06 at 17:31:44 That's a very nice price. Don't worry about the carb. You're gonna want to tear it down to rejet it anyway. You should soak all the metal parts in a one gallon drum of Gunk carb cleaner (the one with the parts basket in it). No plastic or rubber in the carb cleaner though. Or pay someone to rebuild it. Get the rejetting done when it's being rebuilt. Yeah, I don't think WD is the answer. If the rust is light, just put some aquarium gravel or bbs in it with a little gas. Slosh it around for a long while. Rinse really well and add some drygas or alcohol to get rid of all the water. Keep it full and the rust won't return. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by WD on 12/03/06 at 20:12:39 Got to Yamaha and get a bottle of tank cleaner and a bottle of neutralizer. Follow the directions. Fill the cleaned tank with fresh fuel and add an ounce or two of SeaFoam or two stroke oil. No more rust. And no funky liner to peel out and clog the carb (Kreem isn't gas safe, go figure). Tires? Replace, along with the tubes and rim liners. New fuel line is mandatory. Change the brake fluid. Wouldn't hurt to replace the pads and shoes either. Change out the storage oil for Castrol ActEvo 10W40, run the bike until warm. Change the oil again for something decent, I like GTX 20W50 or Rotella 15W40 car oils. ActEvo will clean the insides of the motor and degunk the clutch plates for you. It is a lousy lubricant though... You've got all winter to tinker. Enjoy! -WD |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by geo on 12/03/06 at 20:51:14 The worst problem you have is the rust on the interior of the tank. You must find someone who can sandblast of otherwise clean this tank. Start at a cycle shop who isn't a dealer to see if it can be done. You must verify it can be done first before you buy this thing. If you can verify this, buy it! You will have to strip all the stuff off the tank before you take it in for cleaning. The problems with the chrome have to be rub-rub-rub-rubbed with chrome polish until you can tolerate the appearance. Some pieces might have to be removed from the machine to be properly cleaned up. If it has a stock muffler, junk it and put a SuperTrapp or Jardine on it. This should save a lot of rubbing. The next thing is starting it. Get rid of the junk in the crankcase by warming the housing. Take it in the house if it is cold to warm it up. Do a thorough inspection of the engine assemply to be sure there is no corrosion on critical parts like rocker arms/upper end stuff. Pull and inspect the spark plug. You can manually rotate the engine from alternator rotor bolt under the slotted cover. You might squirt some oil through the spark plug hole and rotate the engine manually. Dynobob suggests you clean and rejet the carb. Do it! This will get the varnish and all the sh!t out of this vital component. Also follow WD advice. Ultimately though, don't use that Castrol sludge generating compound. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Dynobob on 12/03/06 at 21:04:11 Dynobob wrote:
That should read WD40. WD does have the answer ;) Any rusty tank can be cleaned as long as it doesn't have pinholes (and those can be fixed too). I just redid a grungy 1972 Honda tank with POR-15. Like WD says, stay away from that Kreme stuff. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Steve530 on 12/03/06 at 22:57:29 First, do not use anything abrasive on the chrome. No steel wool or sandpaper or anything that will scratch the chrome. I've never dealt with rust spots on chrome, but there are several metal polishes that you might try. Autosol and Simichrome are supposed to be good for this purpose, but they're hard to find. You can probably find Blue Magic metal polish at a local auto parts store. It may remove the rust. It will make the chrome shiny. These products will probably work on dull aluminum, too. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Dynobob on 12/03/06 at 23:35:57 Steve530 wrote:
Simichrome is excellent but is very very abrasive. Use it very sparingly on chrome. I have actually polished through a layer of chrome on automobile wheels using Simichrome. It is terrific for polishing aluminum. Yes it's abrasive, but it will make aluminum shine like chrome. You can find it at most bike shops and some autoparts stores. 0000 steel wool will not scratch chrome Steve. The chrome is much harder than the steel wool. If you use any polish to remove rust it will be (by design) abrasive enough to harm the remaining chrome. Be careful with Simichrome. It is quite abrasive. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by justin_o_guy on 12/04/06 at 16:02:55 I have no idea how well tires handle storage. Consider looking at them very closely. Congrats on such a nice find. That kinda $$$ for a bike is nice. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by WD on 12/04/06 at 18:42:20 DO NOT use Simichrome on Savage chrome parts (unless you plan to paint them, but EasyOff etches better/faster). Like I stated, ActEvo is a great crankcase cleaner, but is NOT a lubricant. Get the motor to operating temperature, and then change it out. In my Vulcan, ActEvo 10W40 made it stop shifting after 800 miles of use (as do all other synthetics I've tried). I have it in my Savage as storage oil, it will be changed when the bike comes out of hibernation. Bike will be switched to Rotella 15W40. Oh, and the Savage worked fine with once yearly GTX 20W50 oil changes. Be ready for oil leaks, a lot of them. Starter opening, shift shaft opening, the notorious rubber plug...there will be more. It's normal, o-rings dry out. As long as it is down anyway, do a valve lash adjustment. They all need it occasionally (unless you buy a bike with hydraulic adjusters). I'm still at the indie shop for the time being. If you need supplies, let me know. -WD |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by georgekathe on 12/04/06 at 23:58:12 I know your question was on chrome (no idea about it) & tank, but here's my 2 cents worth - agree with what WD said (other than I'm ignorant on how to clean a tank so cannot pass comment on his solution). however - I add a caveat - replace brake line when changing fluid - likely never been done & they recommend change every 4 years. Easy to change when changing fluid (but ensure you use new copper washers - which might come with lines from source below) a fellow called Lancer on this site (find him via his e-mail) sells steel braided line - much better than stock & even better it is cheaper!! I replaced my line with another company's product but only because I did not know of Lancer carrying them. also recommend buying a Clymers manual for the Savage - can buy it cheap from Amazon (like around $25) might want to check the condition of the air fliter (the Clymers will help you locate this & how to get @ it). hope someone else can answer this - but can you clean a air filter or is it buy a new one assuming his like mine when I bought bike very clogged. if so, can he get away with a K & N slip in without rejet? cost is not much more than Suzuki one & it lasts eons longer. oh yeah - unless I am contradicted by someone who knows more than me on this site (which is highly likely) I do not recommend you do something to "clean up the belt." not wishing to directly contradict someone, (& call me cautious) but you might want to hold off on buying a non-stock muffler to just get rid of chrome trouble. a new muffler would allow the bike to breath better but then you are definately into playing with rejetting (& cash outlay. you might want to leave this for down the road after you've spent time & $$ getting it up & running like a top in standard form. I admit I have a non-standard muffler but only started on that path after I'd done a lot of post purchasing work on bike. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by praetorian on 12/05/06 at 06:28:40 First off....thanks to everyone who has responded.... georgekathe wrote:
I am checking into other ways to clean the rust out of the tank as you all have suggested. I have not done the WD-40 trick before, but my bike guru has done it on several bikes he has restored in the past and swears by it. georgekathe wrote:
Replacing the brake lines is definately something that will be done during the clean/rebuild. Thanks for the info on Lancer and his lines... I'll have to get in touch with him about them. georgekathe wrote:
Already purchased a Clymers for it... it is on the way to me right now. georgekathe wrote:
Plans are to get rid of the air box and go with the K&N cone filter right off the bat, also. I AM going to re-jet no matter what, so that isn't a big deal to me. georgekathe wrote:
This is something that I DO have a question about... should I just go ahead and replace the belt or do y'all think it will still be okay? Can it be cleaned ? georgekathe wrote:
I think I am going to leave the exhaust how it is.... at least right off the bat. if I DO keep it, I will replace the exhaust with a free-flowing model. Thanks.... keep the comments coming. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by WD on 12/05/06 at 09:04:36 Belt can/should regularly be cleaned with plain old soap and water. Does not require lube or stop squeal, both will ruin the belt. If you must, you can edge dress it with black shoe polish. If you plan to rejet and do a cone filter swap, pipe it. The other mods are useless without increasing outflow. It can only breathe in as much as it can expell. -WD |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Reelthing on 12/05/06 at 09:38:22 looks like most all the questions are covered except the chrome - we deal with it constantly on the gulf coast - various chome polishers work but dang they're a lot of work - pickup a can of nevrdull wadding polish by eagle one - far easier to use and generally works pretty well without a lot of effort. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Bikemom28 on 12/05/06 at 09:50:10 Trippah wrote:
I agree, When I had to clean the rust out of my tank my husband and I used Muranic Acid in it. It cleaned the tank right out. When using it though you might want to get a mask and put it on your face and get back some, Or else it can burn your eyes and lungs if your not careful. My gas Tank looks great on the inside now. We used Gravel rocks with the Acid and sloshed it around because there was tons of rust in the tank. Now the inside of it looks new. Good luck with the project. You can get the Muranic Acid at Lowe's If you decide to go that route. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Dynobob on 12/05/06 at 15:53:30 Bikemom28 wrote:
If there's more than a thin coat of rust, muriatic acid and aquarium gravel is one of the best methods to use to clean it. Mixed 50/50 with water, it will remove all the rust and leave the good metal. The only problem is flash rust after cleaning. I've used muriatic acid to clean a couple tanks. I coated the last one with POR-15. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by justin_o_guy on 12/05/06 at 16:03:06 Thers a product at paint stores called Ospho. It is dilute phosphoric acid. It turns iron oxide into iron phosphate. It is then hard & black. I would first remove all I could with the afore mentioned Muriatic & gravel, then treat with Ospho. Also, I don't think I have seen tires talked about yet. I hope you look at them real close. A flat is no fun, a blowout is a potential fatality. I can kinda hear someone sayin "Better safe than sorry". 4 years in storage & they might not be allright. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by georgekathe on 12/05/06 at 22:08:57 I add my two more cents - thinking on it agree might be good to replace the tires, irrespective of wear - check sidewalls for cracking. Metzlers are best but pricey (if you go that route a question on here will evince the type). I use Dunlop 404s - way better than standard & a good price (I think the front was in the mid $40s off the internet). oh yeah - if you go with the route of changing the pads/shoes as was mooted by another contributor the least I'd go with is something like EBC brand - cheaper than oem & better. all the hints you are getting & what you are planning may add up to a bit more than the "few hundred" you see putting in it, but you'll end up with a better bike for still a great price! |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Savage_Rob on 12/06/06 at 05:20:53 I've been very happy with Dunlop 491 Elite II's. |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by TVRacer on 12/06/06 at 10:44:19 Vinegar should work just fine for the tank. It removed ALL the rust off the badly rusted headers and pipe on my Formula Vee. Tom |
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Title: Re: Went and saw the savage today.... Post by Trippah on 12/06/06 at 14:02:41 Usually I like oil with my vinegar, so can we now can segue into another OIL THREAD ;D. I agree with justin o guy, after the fuel issues are sorted out and the engine runs ok, , chech the tires before riding. Especially the sidewalls. Don't worry about modifications until you are familiar with the ride; then you'll have a better idea of what it needs to be really yours. Enjoy and happy holidays. |
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