SuzukiSavage.com - Print Page

SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl
General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Brass Plug Removal
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1158263263

Message started by jmerry on 09/14/06 at 12:47:43

Title: Brass Plug Removal
Post by jmerry on 09/14/06 at 12:47:43

Can you guys tell me the best way to remove the brass plug over the idle mixture control screw on the carb? I don't have a slide hammer, and have heard that it could be drilled out. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by thumperclone on 09/14/06 at 12:51:47

small sheet metal screw or(i used)small metal stud framing screw..dont go in too far and bugger up the mix screw..grab head with pliers and pull straight back... ;)

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Veritas on 09/14/06 at 14:38:28

I took a small drill bit to mine till there was a bit of a dimple in it. Then I drove a sheetrock screw through it only about 4-5 threads down. I tried pulling with pliers but it was too stuck int here so I took a garden variety claw hammer, wrappen the head in a rag and found a sturdy place to lever it against. Took a bit of force but it came out nicely.

Now if I can only figure out why it sounds like the same idle no matter how many turns out, I'll be golden!

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by vroom1776 on 09/14/06 at 14:45:02

V,

Too high or too low? or just no change? Maybe yank the carb and see what happens if you turn the idle screw... or are you talking about the pms screw?

V

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Veritas on 09/14/06 at 15:55:20

Nope, it's the right screw. The one behind the plug. I haven't done the spacer mod yet but I'm sure the screw should still make a change in idle speed. It's still too low, I think. The way it came from the factory...

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Brewbrother on 09/14/06 at 16:27:18

Veritas wrote:

I'd be doubtful you would get any significant change without more fuel coming into the needle or pilot circuits. Whats stopping you from the spacer mod??

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Veritas on 09/14/06 at 18:42:43

Well, any nice days left, I'm riding her. And I can't get the screws on top off. I got one with an impact driver, stripped the hell out of one and cant get to the other two.

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Savage_Rob on 09/14/06 at 20:41:36

Veritas wrote:

Idle speed is a knob on the left side of the carb. If you want to change idle speed, that's the one. The one under the brass plug is the idle fuel/air (pilot circuit) adjustment.

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Veritas on 09/15/06 at 00:26:40

Yeah, thats what I meant. What I meant by speed was I do not hear the idle getting stronger (like described in the brass plug thread) when I turn out the screw and the engine doesnt struggle to stay running when I turn the screw, even all the way in. Maybe my ear isn't tuned to hear it?

ps. jmerry, sorry for hijacking your thread!

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Trippah on 09/15/06 at 04:35:39

Veritas, same here: I drilled out the brass cover, and have done the white spacer mod (1/2) but do not hear much difference when I turn the screw.. Suzi runs pretty well so I'll mess with it later when Winter presents

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by jmerry on 09/15/06 at 05:54:45

No, guys, this is a good topic. I got the plug out just by drilling - it just popped out when I drilled about 1/2 way through. I toyed with the adjustment for some time, but could tell very little in the idle. I settled on about 3 "turns out" and adjusted my idle to match.

I thought I had fixed the lean condition at lower RPM's, as it ran better yesterday when it was warm, but this AM I could still tell that it was still starving a bit at lower throttle. I can tell it's a lean condition, because the choke seems to empower it alot. Can someone send a comprehensive setup sheet for adjusting the idle mixture screw?

Thanks!

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by babbalou on 09/15/06 at 06:03:00

Trippah wrote:

Same here. My idle speed didn't change when I turned the pilot screw in or out unless it was all the way in or several turns out. I learned that (on my bike at least) 1/2 out makes a loud backfire on shutdown, 1 out makes a quieter backfire & I settled at 1 1/2 out which makes a quiet "poof" after shutdown. Seems to run slightly crisper down low with it out some. Factory setting was almost closed.

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by thumperclone on 09/15/06 at 07:16:49

do a search for "lancers straight & simple carb tuning"

first you turn up your idle i did about1500rpm (normal spec is 1000>1200) then when you change the idle mix you can def tell...

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by jmerry on 09/15/06 at 10:23:58

Yeah, I read that post and went by that method. I still didn't see much of a change. Are there any other methods?

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by vroom1776 on 09/15/06 at 10:40:19

Veritas wrote:

Well, any nice days left, I'm riding her. And I can't get the screws on top off. I got one with an impact driver, stripped the hell out of one and cant get to the other two.

get a rigid screw extractor kit. They work great, IMO. Saved my bacon many times. Got mine for $4 at harbor freight tools.

V

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by vroom1776 on 09/15/06 at 10:45:03

jmerry wrote:

Yeah, I read that post and went by that method. I still didn't see much of a change. Are there any other methods?

roll ons and roll offs, dyno, afr sniffer

roll on and off (http://www.axiomcycles.com/pages/info/tech/Harley_Davidson_Mechanics_FuelSystem.htm), about 1/5 down the page, and these really just work for the main jet.

dyno = $$$$, very good, make sure you use one w/ an afr sniffer, if you go this route.

A different, but good method, IMO, is to ge the bke warm and ride it. Change the setting a little and ride it some more. Keep playing till yr happy! This is known as the "butt-dyno."

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Brewbrother on 09/15/06 at 14:46:28

Veritas wrote:

Well, any nice days left, I'm riding her. And I can't get the screws on top off. I got one with an impact driver, stripped the hell out of one and cant get to the other two.

I used needle nosed vice grips. They came out easily.

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Veritas on 09/15/06 at 15:13:29

I'll try the vice grips... but how do you get to the two hidden under the frame?

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Dynobob on 09/15/06 at 16:24:38

Veritas wrote:

I'll try the vice grips... but how do you get to the two hidden under the frame?

Loosen the carb mounting clamps and rotate the carb. I removed half of my screws with needle nosed vice grips.

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Brewbrother on 09/15/06 at 18:23:11

Veritas wrote:

I'll try the vice grips... but how do you get to the two hidden under the frame?

dynobob said it all. be sure not to over tighten the carb boots when your done. Air leaks cause backfires on upshifts. I learned the hard way.

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Robb on 09/17/06 at 06:33:35

I have only had my 2005 S4o a couple of weeks and guess what, it backfires. I am kinda confused about the brass plug everyone is talking about. Right or left side? Thanks.

Robb

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Robb on 09/17/06 at 06:43:11

I think I just found it-right side straight up from plug? My bike backfires a little when decelerating in second gear like when I am coming to a stop and only makes a little poof when I shut the bike down. It really doesn't bother me that much. Is it really worth messing with? Thanks.

Robb

Title: Re: Brass Plug Removal
Post by Veritas on 09/17/06 at 08:26:40

Robb, you're lucky. My 2005 S40 sounded like a shotgun went off the first time I shut her off. It was my first time ever riding and I thought my neighbor was shooting at me cause he didn't like the bike! Scared the hell out of me! She'll backfire decel in any gear and on shut down. Been shooting at me from mile 0 to the 2555 I have on her now.

I was gonna do the carb today but it's 75 and sunny. I can't take her apart when I should be riding her! :o