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Message started by babbalou on 08/02/06 at 19:15:33

Title: Changing fork oil question
Post by babbalou on 08/02/06 at 19:15:33

Is it necessary to remove the forks to change the fork oil? That's what the Clymer manual stated but what a pain! I thought those were drain screws on the front near the bottom. Is it possible to syphon out the old oil? Anyway, I bought some 20 weight fork oil & I thought I'd try it. I've had the forks off once to add fork boots but I'd hoped to avoid that again. Also, for anyone who's tried 20 weight, was it worth the trouble? Thanks.

Title: Re: Changing fork oil question
Post by Reelthing on 08/02/06 at 20:10:39

real shame man but there are no drains on the forks

Title: Re: Changing fork oil question
Post by WD on 08/02/06 at 21:02:57

Drop 'em and flop 'em upside down for a day or so. My forks have leaked since 10 minutes after I took brand new delivery of the bike in 1998. They still leak. I guess I'll change the seals later this year, top them up, and put on the fork boots. I'm too broke to pay attention, much less buy 2 springers right now (I have 2 bikes with hydraulic forks, yuk). Already have the fork boots, seals are cheap ($14 less 15% employee discount), fork oil is cheap (Dexron 3 ATF, 299 cents a quart).
-WD

Title: Re: Changing fork oil question
Post by lancer on 08/03/06 at 04:12:37

I did change the fork oil without removing them once. I used a little plastic syphon I got at Lowes that is made for filling laterns and heaters with fuel, it has the squeeze bulb for making it suck & blow ::) ... costs about $6 +/- I think. It is not the best way but you can flush and fill both forks in about 30 minutes this way.
When I did mine I syphoned out the old stuff first (was hardly any of it in there ... so much for dealer prep on a new bike), then filled both tubes to the very top with fluid (cheap Dexron), tried stirring it around a bit, then sucked it all out. Then I did it again. Then measured the exact amount the forks are supposed to have (Amsoil 20W by the way) and poured it in, put the caps back on and was ready to go.
Doing the fill/flush twice got most of the junky fluid out, little as it was. Like I said, it is not the best way but it is better than leaving bad stuff in there. It will be fine until you can do a proper job of it at a later date.

Regarding the 20W oil, I REALLY like the feel of it. The forks actually feel like they are dampening something compared to before.

Title: Re: Changing fork oil question
Post by babbalou on 08/03/06 at 04:57:30

Cool, I'll try the syphon trick. Thanks. Before I got my fork brace I was considering going to 10 weight, but now with the brace it's so smooth it feels like there's almost no oil there, so the 20W might tighten up the feel of the front end even more.

Title: Re: Changing fork oil question
Post by babbalou on 08/05/06 at 21:44:01

Got it done & it did firm up the front a little which it needed, especially at my weight. ::) Just came back from a ride on some winding roads which I used to do about 50 on. I do about 70 on the same roads now with the fork brace & Progressive shocks. Amazing how different it feels now. Smooth & stable. Just lean it over & it holds a line like it's on rails & soaks up bumps like a 600 pound bike. Used to feel like a rolling trampoline. Next thing up, a SuperTrapp muffler! Maybe next month, broke now. :P