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Message started by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 05:52:57

Title: Post by Jaeger
Post by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 05:52:57


Quote:
Hello!

First post, please flog gently.

First question -- just rejetted the carbs.  While I know that I forgot to reconnect the tank nacelle (the idiot lights don't work), I thought I did everything else right...  until she wouldn't start.  Would the tank nacelle work as a kill switch?

Second -- are tehre really supposed to be hoses on the vacuum valves?  

--Jaeger


Welcome to the site!


Requested Flog: Please read the posting guidelines in each forum before posting.  This was added into the carb specs thread in the Tech Ref forum.  There's a sticky post at the top of that forum entitled Posting Guidelines: DO NOT POST QUESTIONS HERE!.

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 05:54:39

Below is the reply by Kropatchek:


Quote:
Welcome to THE Savage/S40 forum.

First I would connect the plug under the tank.

Second: Is the startermotor turning?

If so, you probably don't get any fuel to the carburator.

Search the forum for a picture of the Carburator hoses. There's one that goes from the rear of the fuelc0ck to the left side of the carb.: the fuel hose. The vacuumhose runs from the backside to the right side of the carb.
I.a.w. put the fuelc0ck to PRI and see where the fuel comes out.

Greetz
Kropatchek ;D

Please complete your profile so we know who you are and were you'r coming from.


Title: Welcome to the site!
Post by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 05:57:38

Welcome aboard!  There's a great bunch of folks here and some of 'em even stop by occasionally to say Hi to the rest of us!  Look around, introduce yourself and don't forget to stop by Sluggo's table in the Cafe.

So far as your questions go, are we talking about a Savage/S40 here?  I mean... to me a nacelle is a housing or fuselage, usually for aerodynamics.  I would normally equate that to a fairing or similar construct when speaking of motorcycles.  My Savage has no such thing.  Are you maybe referring to the frame?  You also say you rejetted the carbs.  My Savage only has one.  If the plural carbs should have been the singular carb and we are talking about a Savage/S40, are you possibly referring to the two vent hoses on the carb that are just kind of stuffed into the frame?

Rob

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by BILL JAEGER on 03/06/06 at 09:40:59

Mea culpa, mea culpa -- Oops.   :-[  I thought when i saw that post not to post in THAT post.  I jsut read it and came here.  Oops.  :P

And sorry for being unclear -- was tired, grumpy, and frustrated last night with the #$#$@^# bike.  

Yes, the bike is a 1996 Savage, recently purchased for my better half.  She (the bike, not my wife) has about 11k miles on her, and is in fairly good shape.  With new tires and my local wrench-head to try to fix the blasted oil leak in teh engine (apparently the infamous cap leak), she's basically 100%...  or was until I started mucking with her.

1 -- I put on an ebay-purchased Sportster Screamin' Eagle pipe, which sounds AWSOME.  Further -- and this is a completely subjective seat-of-pants statement -- I'm fairly sure the bike ran with significantly more torque BEFORE the rejet, albeit very (very) lean.  

I will say, though, that I could not get the mounting bracket bent in such a way that I could put a bolt through it, so I'm just using the muffler clamp itself.  The pipe is light and short enough that I have no worries about it coming off (and I torqued that muffler clamp on there well enough that it won't be a problem).

2 -- So I pulled the carb yesterday to deal with the fuel-air mix.  I must say, I've grown spoiled working on my Triumph -- the Savage is WAAY more tight internally than the Triumph!  Is the carb supposed to be so difficult to get out?  Even the tank is a pain!  

Anyway, between having problems with the fuel-air screw (drill clipped it while pulling the plug, so we had to mess with it to get it turned out) and wrestling with the carb to get it back in (see above complaints about space) we were staring to run out of daylight, and were in a hurry to get the tank back on (insert complaints about Japanese engineering tolerances here), and forgot to plug in the speedo cluster (I called it a nacelle, I suppose that's technically not right).  

The other change we made -- and this was completely on the fly and may have been stupid -- was to cap the vacuum ports on either side of the carb.  On other motorcycles on which we've worked, those are supposed to be, well, capped.  Are they really supposed to have hoses?

We tried to get the bike to start -- the starter works, the engine turns but does not catch. We thought perhaps that we should've left the vacuum ports open, so we pulled the caps off, but it still would not catch (and so we put the caps back on).  The speedo cluster is still disconnected (we ran out of time), and we ran the battery down itrying to get her to start.  

Here is a list of all the mods that were made, as well as the inadvertant change:

Sportster SE Muffler
Main jet changed to 152.5
F/A screw to approx 2.5 turns
Vacuum ports closed (removed hoses and put on caps)
(accidentally) disconnected Speedo cluster

Would any of these mods keep the bike from catching?  The carb appears to be getting fuel, the breather hose is connected to the tank, the airbox is connected...  Dunno.  Suggestions?

Oh, and I'll update my profile when i figure out how!

Thanks, folks!  :)

--Jaeger

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/06/06 at 09:42:02

Oops, sorry about that.  That's me above.   :-[

Geez.  I suck at the internet.   ;D

--Jaeger

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by torque on 03/06/06 at 09:56:54

what "vacuum ports" are talking about ???

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/06/06 at 10:09:09


torque wrote:
what "vacuum ports" are talking about ???



On either side of the carb (left and right) there are little nipples.  In the stock configuration, there are (or were on my bike) two identical hoses that run up under the tank and attach to...  nothing.

In general, I've seen those nipples (vacuum ports) on other carbs, and they're always capped with little rubber caps.  On this bike, they were basically left open.  

--Jaeger

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by SAMM on 03/06/06 at 10:11:54

I think he pluged the bowl vents ........... ???

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 10:20:04


SAMM wrote:
I think he pluged the bowl vents ........... ???

I think so too.

Jaeger,

take a look at the photos in the Carb Specs thread in the Tech Ref section.  You'll see there are basically four tubing fittings on the carb.  There is one fuel line inlet on the left, one vacuum port on the right and the two bowl vents (one on each side).

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/06/06 at 10:37:58


Savage_Rob wrote:

I think so too.

Jaeger,

take a look at the photos in the Carb Specs thread in the Tech Ref section.  You'll see there are basically four tubing fittings on the carb.  There is one fuel line inlet on the left, one vacuum port on the right and the two bowl vents (one on each side).


Yep, I'm quite sure that's what I did.  Ok, good to know...  bowl vents, eh?  I suppose, then, that by plugging those I would, say, render the thing incapable of starting?  :)

Aaah, live and learn.  

--Jaeger



Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Salad_Shaker on 03/06/06 at 10:39:35

A "nacelle" is the kind of headlight cowl that includes the speedo, switches and idiot lights a found on 1950's Triumphs and up to the present day Enfield India Bullets.

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/06/06 at 10:48:20


Salad_Shaker wrote:
A "nacelle" is the kind of headlight cowl that includes the speedo, switches and idiot lights a found on 1950's Triumphs and up to the present day Enfield India Bullets.


Well, the instrument cluster on the modern Triumph Americas/Speedmasters are commonly referred to as a nacelle -- which, given the proper definition of the word (A separate streamlined enclosure on an aircraft for sheltering the crew or cargo or housing an engine) still isnt' right, but hey, it is an aerodynamic housing...  *shrug*

--Jaeger

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Dynobob on 03/06/06 at 11:37:23

Are you running the white spacer under the needle at stock thickness ? If so, you are quite lean in the midrange - hence the loss of torque. My bike with 1/2 spacer and an aftermarket muffler has boatloads more midrange torque.

Nacelle - yeah, I understood what he was referring to. The instrument cluster on the tank.

Those carb vents run into the square frame tubing under the tank near the front of the seat.

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/06/06 at 11:42:39


Dynobob wrote:
Are you running the white spacer under the needle at stock thickness ?  ... bike with 1/2 spacer and ...

Those carb vents run into the square frame tubing under the tank near the front of the seat.


Spacer -- I did not pull the needle, though I wanted to.  Ran out of time.  How are you guys cutting the spacer?  Razor?  It looks like Ishould be able to pull that without pulling out the whole carb...  right?  (oh, please say yes -- i don't want to go through pulling that bloody thing out again, it was a real pain in the butt.)

As for the carb vents -- I just feel like a goof now. My buddy and I were sitting there saying "WTF?  Shouldn't these be plugged?!!?"   Er...  :P   Me stoopid.   :-[

--Jaeger

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Dynobob on 03/06/06 at 11:58:46


jaeger wrote:
Spacer -- I did not pull the needle, though I wanted to.  Ran out of time.  How are you guys cutting the spacer?  Razor?  It looks like Ishould be able to pull that without pulling out the whole carb...  right?  (oh, please say yes -- i don't want to go through pulling that bloody thing out again, it was a real pain in the butt.)

I sanded mine down on a flat surface with some fine sandpaper. I used a cheap micrometer to measure and stopped at 1/2 the thickness of stock.

Yes you can do it without pulling the carb. Pull the tank :'( and you can get to it. Use the best fitting and newest screwdriver you can inside the carb. Most here replaced the bowl and diaphram screws with stainless allen heads.

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Dynobob on 03/06/06 at 12:01:17

The screws are soft as butter for sure. On a practically new bike with a good screwdriver 1/2 of mine stripped. Don't know why they use such cheap @ss metal for the screws.

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/06/06 at 12:02:01


Dynobob wrote:

I sanded mine down on a flat surface with some fine sandpaper. I used a cheap micrometer to measure and stopped at 1/2 the thickness of stock.

Yes you can do it without pulling the carb. Pull the tank :'( and you can get to it. Use the best fitting and newest screwdriver you can inside the carb. Most here replaced the bowl and diaphram screws with stainless allen heads.



Ok, cool.  I really don't want to pull that carb again unless I absolutely must.  

Honestly, I didn't have any problems with the stock screws, thankfully.  I know what you're takling about, though -- the stock carb screws on the Triumphs are TERRIBLE.  About as hard as warm butter.  It was pretty much manditory to replace those, as the stock screws were destroyed in the process of removing them.

As far as the spacer -- okey doke.  I don't have a micrometer, but I'll see what I can do.  Has anyone tried to just get a replacement, or use metal needle shims?

Oh, and I'm in Reston, VA.  You?

--Jaeger

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Dynobob on 03/06/06 at 12:09:01


jaeger wrote:
As far as the spacer -- okey doke.  I don't have a micrometer, but I'll see what I can do.  Has anyone tried to just get a replacement, or use metal needle shims?

I bought a replacement as a spare from the dealer. I think they had to order it. Some people have used metal washers but most seem to have to modify them some. Do a search.


Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 12:25:35

Jaeger,

Okay, I guess nacelle is used differently with respect to bikes.  I hadn't heard it except with respect to planes and that was just something I'd run across while reading and had to look it up.

On the white spacer, take a look at the Mid-Range Power & the White Spacer (Backfire) (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1104205157) post in the Tech Ref section.  So far as removing the carb, I was able to get at everything with it in place by removing the seat and tank.  Other folks have loosened it and rotated it to gain better access.

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Dynobob on 03/06/06 at 12:32:04


BILL JAEGER wrote:

Main jet changed to 152.5

With a Screaming Eagle I'm wondering if your choice of main jet is big enough. That's a very free flowing muffler. What are you folks running with Screaming Eagles ?


Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/06/06 at 14:40:10


Hey, all --

I cut out of work early, came home, put the hoses back in...  and of course she started right up.  

I'm a dope.  :P

Anyway, thanks for all your input!  I have yet to do the needle spacers (Dynobob has volunteered to help me with that, I think, as he lives just a couple of miles from me).  

Another question, though -- and this may be an indication that I'm running too lean -- so...  the header pipe AND the new Screamin' Eagle can are starting to blue from heat.  Is this normal?  I expected the header pipe, but the can too??  

--Jaeger

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Hammy211 on 03/06/06 at 19:12:29


Dynobob wrote:

With a Screaming Eagle I'm wondering if your choice of main jet is big enough. That's a very free flowing muffler. What are you folks running with Screaming Eagles ?


Still lean?  Read Dynobobs post.  I have a SE II with a drop in K&N and a 157.5 jet.  I'm going to try a 155, but I wouldn't call the 157.5 overkill at all.


Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by Dynobob on 03/06/06 at 19:59:21


jaeger wrote:
Another question, though -- and this may be an indication that I'm running too lean -- so...  the header pipe AND the new Screamin' Eagle can are starting to blue from heat.  Is this normal?  I expected the header pipe, but the can too??  

You're too lean. We'll fix it. Bikes run leaner in the cold weather too. My Supertrapp hasn't blued at all.

Title: Re: Post by Jaeger
Post by jaeger on 03/07/06 at 08:29:20


I found out what the problem was -- my buddy spritzed my can with WD40 while he was working on the carb -- that's why it blued.  *whew!*

Anyway, I am wondering if I'm running a little lean.  We'll see.  I will say that she's running a HELLUVA lot stronger now with the new pipe and jet.  Haha!  

Dynobob, when we get together I'll ask you to take a spin on the Savage and tell me what you think.  I'm a really new wrencher, so I'm figuring stuff out as I go along.  

Again, thanks for your help, everybody!  Woo hoo!  This little thumper rules!!!

--Jaeger

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