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Message started by orrin7 on 02/07/06 at 16:11:03

Title: exhaust
Post by orrin7 on 02/07/06 at 16:11:03

one of the guys at work has a 2002 savage . his is the reason i bought my s40. he has a screamin eagle muffler on it from a sportster. when he saw my muffler , he told me his problem. his leaks right where it joins the header on the side . he said he has tried everything he can think of to stop it with no results. he came by my house today and i tried several things with no results . can anyone help him.

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by Reelthing on 02/07/06 at 16:42:37

whats the inside diameter? - one fellow just had the SAII welded to the head pipe

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by Hammy211 on 02/07/06 at 17:39:38

Following recommendations from this board, I used pieces of pop can as a shim and a 1 3/4 car muffler bracket I believe. As much shim as I could fit which was two or three layers. No leaks. Problem with his now could be that the metal has already been bent which would make it more difficult to get a good shim in. I have an SE II slash cut muffler off a sportster.

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by Jim_R on 02/07/06 at 19:53:46

tell him to take the muffler off, bring it autozone, and buy a brute force muffler clamp (like 2-3 dollars). That way he can fit the clamp around the muffler and see how close it will fit. Buy the tightest snug one. Using strips of soda cans inbetween works as a gasket under pressure.

good luck.

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by Max_Morley on 02/07/06 at 22:35:20

$10.00 spent at the local performance muffler shop today bought my BiL the adapter that is 7" long has the 10 deg bend in it and is cutom fit the header and muffler. He welded the adapter to the head pipe after we carefull fit the turn on the adapter so the muffler sat parallel to the swing arm and kicked out past the rear brale lever. Left that very snug connection unclamped so there is some give in the syste, as it heats and expands. Use a piece of 1x1 or 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 angle iron on the original bracket and the tab on the HD XL muffler Then used the standard 2" heat shield to cover the adapter. Looks and sounds great. No more heat treating the brake assembly or coke can shims. It looks like it was meant to be. I strongly reccomend this method over shade tree stuff. Max in Moses Lake. Sluggo when are you coming after the SuperTrapp?

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by Dynobob on 02/07/06 at 23:19:10

Permatex makes a high temp silicone sealer designed for exhausts. Let it cure for 24 hours or you may blow it out. Clean the surfaces with steel wool and some solvent before applying.

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by slavy on 02/08/06 at 07:36:34

The way You describe the problem- 2 easy solutions:
1. Go in Harbor Fraight and buy an exaust pipe expanding tool. The price will be around $9-10 if it is not on sale and about $5 on sale. Use it where the muffler is deformed and it will work pretty good. The only problem is that HF tools are very low quality and I don't know what is tuffer- the muffler or the tool.
2. Just go in a muffler shop with both pieces and explain the problem. They have professional tools and they deal with these problems all the time. You will get the work done right, You can get some other input about sealing between the 2 parts, and it will not cost You too much.

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by Ed_L. on 02/08/06 at 15:38:17

Get a piece of black thickwalled gas pipe that fits loosely in the exhaust pipe, clamp it in a vice and slip it in the end of the pipe. Then take a hammer (one of my favorite tools) and tap on the exhaust pipe using the gas pipe as an anvil and work out the deformation. Or run down to the local muffler shop and slip the kid in the back a couple bucks to do it up right.

Title: Re: exhaust
Post by Savage_Rob on 02/09/06 at 08:20:54

The seal/gasket that Suzuki uses (available at RonAyers.com and others) is pliable and made with metal fibers in it. After trying several things, I noticed this in the parts fiche at RonAyers.com and tried it. It works extremely well.