|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> BAd OiL LeAk HeLp /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1134078352 Message started by saabsaviur on 12/08/05 at 13:45:52 |
|
Title: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by saabsaviur on 12/08/05 at 13:45:52 mines a 96 with 13.5k miles, ok this afternoon i noticed a bunch of stuff splattered on my battery box and starter the leaks seems to be coming from the left side of the cylinder. is it a huge job to replace the cyl head gasket or cylinder gasket im sure its one of these items? has anyone tried automotive stop leak stuff in a bike? is my bike destend to be junk ort is this leak livable i didnt notice a drop in oil volume through window what is the tourge rating for the head bolts im going to try tightening those after reading some? http://www.bikepics.com/pics/pics/suzuki-savage-00-bikepics-418796.jpg stole this pic from previus post same location of leak and about same amount as in pic |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by torque on 12/08/05 at 14:17:02 it sure looks like the famous plug/cap leak,if it is theres thousands of posts covering that problem. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by saabsaviur on 12/08/05 at 14:20:59 ya going through post i think it may be the plug/cap leak is it a huge concern can i still ride and just keep a good eye on oil level and repair once snow starts falling steady or should i rack it and fix it asap |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by torque on 12/08/05 at 15:17:26 u can ride it ,just watch the oil,i rode mine for a month before i fixed it,its not a hard job. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Reelthing on 12/08/05 at 15:49:00 Not much doubt it - head cover plug leak - be sure and read all the post in the tech on it - some important tips and tricks (tdcc , small wrenches, bolt template) |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by saabsaviur on 12/09/05 at 07:14:29 thanks ill clean engine and ensure area of leak then try to do the plug/seal |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by slavy on 12/09/05 at 07:19:56 Go in " Technical documents" and you will find the info on the second page. Once You are done, You will be a real owner of a '96 LS650 ;) |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Digger on 12/09/05 at 09:15:24 HOLD EVERYTHING! Before you dive into the cylinder head cover plug job, check the 12mm nut just below the exhaust pipe header (where the exhaust pipe exits the cylinder head at the front of the engine). If you see fresh oil hanging out on this nut, tighten it down to 16.5-19.5 ft-lbs. I had the same leak a few months ago, tightening this nut slowed it way down. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Ed_L. on 12/09/05 at 11:37:17 If you are planning on tightening the head bolts be carefull, they will snap even at recomended torque. Don't overtighten them. I'll vote for a bad plug/cap oil leak from the looks of it. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by rokrover on 12/09/05 at 12:27:54 Ed_L. wrote:
I've read about the head COVER bolts snapping occasionally, especially if you forget to relieve camshaft / valve spring tension at TDC before loosening them. But the main HEAD bolts? These are supposed to be retorqued at 600mi and then every 4K or so. The only head bolts I've heard to be careful with are the TTY (torque to yield) type that should never be reused but have the advantage of holding more consistent clamping pressure. My impression is that the LS650 motor doesn't use these but I may be wrong (will check the factory service manual when it comes in). |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Ed_L. on 12/09/05 at 13:33:10 I think you are right about the head cover bolts breaking, not the head bolts, my oops :-[ |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by saabsaviur on 12/09/05 at 14:10:18 im confused so can i tighten the little bolt behinf the header without huge fear of snapping it also i noticed what i thought was a leak on the bolt that is in that little pocket in center front of engine |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Digger on 12/09/05 at 14:37:34 saabsaviur wrote:
The bolt I was referring to was the one below the exhaust header. It is in the center of the front part of the engine. There is a stud that is pointed downward and there is a 12mm nut on the stud that you may need to tighten. I hope this helps. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Greg_650 on 12/11/05 at 08:04:58 I have reused the the head cover bolts several times, but it does seem that too much can be a problem. The best thing is to always use a torque wrench, regardless. Another tip would be to be certain to remove (as best as possible) any debris from inside the bolt holes before reassembly. Poke a little allen wrench or something inside each hole to remove oil. if you have an air source, then blow them out too. I think that it is quite possible that some oil silicone sealer rubber can get into the holes which may affect the torque on the bolt. Either way, this is how a broken head cover bolt looks....try to avoid this :D http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/HeadBoltBroke03web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Digger on 12/12/05 at 11:35:06 saabsaviur wrote:
Saab, buddy, here is a good trick to find the source of any oil leak: Clean the area good. One thing that works for me is one of those engine degreaser sprays. You spray it on, let it soak and maybe brush the really dirty spots, then wash it off with a hose. You should have a nice clean engine now. Next, get you some jock itch spray (Cruex is my personal favorite - it smells so nice, it reminds me of my Mommy). Spray some on your engine anyplace where you think the oil may be leaking out. The spray will coat the area with a fine white powder. Start the bike up. Look where you sprayed. If you see some brown areas developing, you have just found where the oil leak is. If you can't see it right away, ride the bike for ten minutes or so, then check again. Happy hunting! |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 14:42:21 And now to resurrect an older thread... Saab, Did you ever determine the cause of this leak on your bike? I ask because I think mine may have developed the same leak. I have not pulled the tank and the stuff off yet to take a closer. I just noticed it last week. It's not enough to lower my oil level appreciably but I think it is pooling on the left side of the cylinder head and then blowing back at higher speeds. Hopefully I'll have time to take a closer look this weekend. Rob |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by USCG Cremeans on 03/06/06 at 17:35:19 i'm currently in the middle of the plug cap leak fix. If anyone needs pictures while the tops off. I'm just waiting for ron ayers to send me the bolt i broke and some fresh gaskets for some of the bolts. Being the unitelligent man i am, i neglected to find out if i was in TDCC and the last bolt i was removing snapped with the added pressure. nothing a craftsman easy-out couldn't fix, but still holding me up a bit. I want to ride but the engine is sitting in my basement! haha Like i said if you need pics while she is open lemme know. Jesse |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Max_Morley on 03/06/06 at 18:12:55 On the 87 we just did, you could actually see the bottom of the rubber plug jigglying up and down at idle. At cruise RPM it seated due to crankcase pressure. That why the leak was worse on my 96 (and this 87) at around town running vs highway driving, more idleing time. Use a flashlight and look up above the bolt on the stud behind the exhaust header. The plug (Suzuki calls it a cap) stops up the access hole used to tighten that nut (it is one of the four on the cylinder). We could actually watch the oil drop down into the cavity when the egnine ran, when you put the bike on the side stand, it drips off the lower left corner of the cylinder head to cylinder mating surface and on the ground. In flight it blows back on the side covers, battery box, and saddle bags of you have them. Takes a couple hours to fix if you have all the parts on hand and decent selection of wrenches and sockets. An extra set of hands is nice to R & R the tank and wiring connection (it pulls apart w/no lock clips) =, also helps to have very little fuel in the tanl. Don't lose the rubber ring on the speedo cable lower end. One of those new 10 mm racheting box wrenches is a big help and we use mostly 1/4 drive sockets sets for the job. A 3/8 dr. air wrench is nice for the top engine stay nuts. Supplies needed are the cap, 4 new copper washers for the sealing cover bolts, grey yamaha bond or =, and some blue locktite. We used q-tips to get oil out of the cover bolt holes. Lots of great information in the tech section and I can't emphasize enough printing out Greg's template for the cover bolts and using it. If somehow you mess up all the bolts should be above the cover close to the same amount when they are just placed in the hole, if they are correct. If you have a high or low one they are incorrect and will either bottom and break or not have enough thread engagement and strip the cover. Remember the front left ,upside down one and the center one have to come out with the cover and go back in with it as the frame interfers with getting those in once the cover is in place. Use the sealer sparingly as you do not want it to get inside the engine and plug up the oil pump inlet !! A pencil lead thin line is plenty as the surfaces are machined and will almost seal w/o any sealer. We also dabbed a blob of RTV on top the plug/cap where the cover runs across the top of it. It should help keep the new plug bottomed and not leak. My 96 is still tight being done in 99. On the 87 we took the cover out the RH side but on my 96 it came out the left hand side easier for some reason. I have mine open to change the cam chain and tensioner at 26,ooo miles. If you get a noise (rattle) on the RH side down low on the cylinder, don't ignore it as I'd guess the steel/iron parts going through the crank to counterbalancer gear would be fatal. The plunger in the cam chain tensioner wears the aluminum housing to the point the plunger and spring can fall out. Mine was still intact but I could easily move it down and out with my finger. Hopefully the new part will be redesigned and have a longer life. The failure seems sporadic and may be because I like to run mine slow which would load/unload the cam chain more. I ran mine one summer with the leak but could not at the time figure the town vs highway difference in leakage. I checked at every gas stop regardless. Happy Wrenching Max |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Savage_Rob on 03/06/06 at 20:24:11 Hmm, I'll check it. I just did the head seal/plug (I think it was last summer). I guess it's always possible I messed it up someplace though. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Savage_Rob on 03/07/06 at 05:38:34 Okay, I looked with a flashlight (or pocket torch, if you prefer) and my plug is not leaking. I'll have to look further this weekend. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Savage_Rob on 03/22/06 at 11:03:50 Digger wrote:
Well, I wasn't able to tell anything definitive from the looks I gave it but I managed to clean out the majority of the pooled oil (maybe a teasp00n or two, tops) and the nut mentioned above seemed to have a slight residue there, so I tightened it slightly. A couple of weeks later and there's no noticeable leakage yet. I'll continue to monitor. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Digger on 12/26/06 at 19:46:24 Rob, And? |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Savage_Rob on 12/27/06 at 05:11:06 I actually covered it in a separate thread. Anyway, I have no leaks so far as I can tell. |
|
Title: Re: BAd OiL LeAk HeLp Post by Steve530 on 12/27/06 at 21:02:55 The thread that took a year. Must be a record. Steve |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |