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Message started by charlie on 11/04/05 at 21:15:30

Title: savage carb upgrade
Post by charlie on 11/04/05 at 21:15:30

hey all,, newbie on this site because i just aquired a "95" model savage. very good shape but needs a little wrenching that will happen this winter, first thing i notice is the CVK carb. most experience i have with these to date is simply putting a mikuni,sudco bank, etc in its place to cure the lean condition wich its likely to have. i have been down that road trying to buy needles,jets,springs,shut-off kits to make the CVK work and i wont do it anymore, because the truth of the matter is it cost as much as a new carb by the time your done when you count legwork and phone calls etc. before i get into my stock of carbs and grab a mikuni or something else i want to hear from people who have made the change already, its to cold out already to ride the bike so i have no reference on stock performance. thats where the forum can help me make up my mind to upgrade it this winter or not.
chas
out there,,somewhere

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by [Rob] on 11/04/05 at 22:34:18

Welcome aboard! If you're trying to tune the stock carb, please take a peek at the posts on carbs and idle mixtures in the Technical Documents/Reference forum but please don't post there. Post any questions in this forum. I would highly suggest doing a few searches on white spacer and rejet and do some reading. Most people get pretty good results with a white spacer mod and rejetting combined with an air filter and exhaust upgrade. If you are looking to replace your carb, shoot Lancer a PM and see what he may be able to offer or suggest. He plays with, tests, and builds carb kits for the Savage/S40.

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by lancer on 11/05/05 at 04:37:46

You rang??

Thanks for the "promo" Rob!

Charlie, you have raised the right questions on this issue. An old cv carb can easily cost as much or more to rebuild/fix than to replace it with a new performance carb. But you do not know for sure until you take it apart, clean and check all of its parts. I have done quite a few, some end up working fine and others have resulted in some unknown "carb demon" that simply refused to be found...the answer to that situation was always a BIG HAMMER...I HAVE NEVER FOUND A CARB DEMON THAT COULD SURVIVE A SLEDGE HAMMER...always works the first time!!!

This past year I have sold rebuilt Edelbrock Quicksilvers, and new Amal Mark II's and Mikuni VM's. I would like to try a Dellorto but have not had the opportunity yet. I am out of all the Amal's except for one lone 34mm. It is a bit small for the Savage for top performance but would have good low/midrange. We usually use the 36mm VM for a stock Savage and the 38mm VM for a modified engine.
The bare minimum for a carb swap is carb/mounting flange/throttle cable, which runs about $200 with shipping. If you want to do the "FULL MONTY", the whole kit is $295 + shp.
I have them listed on Ebay "Suzuki Savage Performanace Carburetor Kit"

ftp]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4585837211&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT[/ftp]

If you have carb questions I would be happy to TRY to answer them. There are a lot of folks on this site who can answer virtually any question about any part of the Savage...and do so with gusto! Welcome aboard.

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by Dan on 11/05/05 at 05:21:14

I have the 38mm Amal from Lancer, and can attest that you get A LOT more power and range, especially at higher RPMs. And, no backfiring!!!

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by mpescatori on 11/17/05 at 15:49:52

I'm currently bidding on...
- a 35mm Dell'Orto double barrel :o
- a 36mm Dell'Orto motorcycle :)
- a 37mm Mikuni from a GN400 :) ,
and I'm watching a few more (including a 40mm Mikuni CV but it doesnt look very clean) :P

Something will have to work.

What should I use as the final connection between the carb and the head? Metal headers are specced to engine/carb specs, but once I customize...
any ideas ???

Maurizio

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by lancer on 11/17/05 at 19:56:01

Most performance carburetors require a change in the mounting flange on the Savage. I use 3 different sizes, depending on the carb to be used, for mounting on the Savage. I am a Sudco dealer and get mine from them. If you need to know which one to use for a particular carb give me a shout. I will need to know the OD (outside diameter) of the carb, on the engine side.

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by mpescatori on 11/17/05 at 23:55:47

Right, will do.
I'm actually daydreaming about the Dell'Orto double barrel, with forced air induction, a reworked head, a heavier flywheel and ... too bad I can't change the gearbox like on Harleys and the old English bikes... ;D

It'' probably remain a 'plain old cruiser', although I am a glutton for wolves in sheep's clothing ;)

Maurizio

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by vroom1776 on 11/18/05 at 08:09:22

mpescatori,

A heavier flywheel? Why? Will this make it run smoother? A gearhead friend of mine suggested that the flywheel could be lightened to hot-rod it (not realizing I was talking about a single).

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by SAMM on 11/18/05 at 09:47:24

In the old Go Kart days we used to use a 2 1/2 hp flywheel in a 5 hp engine ( much smaller and lighter) to make them quicker and faster and they are a 1 cylinder..

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by klx650sm2002 on 11/19/05 at 00:39:25

When I got my FCR from Allens Performance (UK) they made a screw in spigot for the carb that fitted the standard mounting rubber.

Clive W :D

Title: Re: savage carb upgrade
Post by mpescatori on 11/19/05 at 01:31:53

vroom1776 wrote:

Your comment is not wrong, but there are buts.
A lighter flywheel is OK for 4+ cylinder engines, as they rev very very high and the flywheel is sometimes needed only for the starter motor and to smooth out at idling. However on a big single a lighter flywheel would make idle lumpier and at high revs it could actually be prone to more vibrations.
A heavier flywheel, on the other hand, would make idle much smoother, would imply less rev drop (c/o piston compression etc.) at gear changes and much more engine brake when downshifting. If one is to cruise on a perky engine, rather than lap around a circuit, I'd go for a heavier flywheel.
Actually many modern singles have one flywheel AND two smaller flywheels that rotate in the other direction !

Anyway, weren't we talking about carbs ;)

Maurizio