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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Replacing the Handlebars
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Message started by theikeman on 08/06/05 at 22:43:36

Title: Replacing the Handlebars
Post by theikeman on 08/06/05 at 22:43:36

My 87 has the straight bars and they seem a bit narrow, don't like the Buckhorns, but I do want to put on some a little wider. Got a free 1" , which is about 6" longer and has about a 3" pullback. Can anyone guide me to a thread or tell me how to do the swap? Never done one ;D
Thanks
Ike

Title: Re: Replacing the Handlebars
Post by WD on 08/06/05 at 22:48:11

Come down to the shop. I'll take care of it. No charge.
-WD

Title: Re: Replacing the Handlebars
Post by Hammy211 on 08/07/05 at 02:18:01

Wish I lived around you. So where would you rate the difficulty of this? I don't know exactly how it is done but I'm sure I could find info on it somewhere.

Title: Re: Replacing the Handlebars
Post by WD on 08/07/05 at 09:21:55

Difficulty? On a scale of 1-10, unless you need to change the brake hose or the cables, it's all of a point 5. Involves 8 allen head screws, 4 phillips head screws, and 10 pieces of fake chrome to pull.

Step 1: remove the switch boxes by removing 2 phillips screws from the back of each box. Seperate the switch halves, let hang down out of the way.

Step 2: Pop out the two chromed plastic plugs in each lever/mirror perch assembly. Remove the allen screws. Set parts on bench, but let the master cylinder free swing on the hose, won't hurt it.

Step 3: Pop out the two chromed plastic handle bar end plugs. Throw them away if you plan to use different grips. Or set on the bench/floor for re-use. Slide the grips off the bar, you may need to twist the left side a good bit to break the glue bond.

Step 4: Remove the four chromed plastic plugs in the riser caps. Remove the allen screws and lift off the bar. Don't let the bar fall onto the tank (dents) or headlight bucket (breaks easily, chromed plastic).

Installing the new bars is a reverse order process. Once the grips are installed, temporarily hold the switch housing in place to mark where the locking pin holes need drilled OR grind the pins out of the switch housings.

Takes longer to type the instructions than to do the work on the bike.
-WD

Oh, the riser screws are 6 or 6.5 mm. The perch screws are 5 mm. Don't be surprised if the riser bolts are oxidized in place. Steel bolt into an aluminum assembly. Replace the riser allen bolts with M8-1.25 stainless steel.