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Message started by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/23/05 at 21:31:05

Title: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/23/05 at 21:31:05

It was a pretty day in Oklahoma today I got a lot of things done and screwed a few things up must have been that 6point beer :P I brought back from the NASCAR :D race in FT Worth last week. Anyhow the bike was running good and I being the dumb a** :-[ I am I decided to adjust the airscrew should have left it alone. Anyway I didn't take a starting reference so I am not sure where it needs to be and it won't idle on its own to adjust as I have read. I have a 86 the book says it should be 3 turns out from fully screwed in but that just caused gas to flow from the vent tube and a very rich looking very rough idle. I say it looks rich because as it approaches’ dying it puffs black smoke and dumps gas out of the vent tube that is on the same side of the bike as the screw. The carb is stock. I have a semi-hollowed out stock pipe and the cover of the air box removed at about 600 ft above sea level. Any ideas on where it should be from all the way screwed in? I need to get a sporty muffler and an k&n and get the Edelbrock carb I got from lancer on my bike, but that is two or three weeks away and I need it rideable now. I have researched it and can’t find enough info to insure the bikes I read about are similar to mine. Thank you for your help in this matter. 8)

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by bobo383 on 04/23/05 at 21:41:25

My bike is happy at 1.5 turns out, but the sound is better at 2 turns out so guess where I have it.

Mine has a 155 main, half spacer, and stock sportster muff. Runs like a scalded dog. Spanks the 883 sportster pretty bad.

The only times my Savage blew black smoke was when I deleted the white needle spacer altogether and when my float needle was fooked up.

Sure was a beautiful day. Washed 2 cars and 2 bikes, bought another bike, and put away alot of beer.

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/23/05 at 22:00:36

forgot to ask should my 86 have a white spacer I got the bike used and it didn't. I am thinking that may be the real sorce of the problem. I know that the early models are different for example my bike was stock with a 155 main jet wereas newer bikes have like a 152. so is the white spacer something they started later in production? 8) Thank you all

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by bobo383 on 04/24/05 at 05:04:15

The ronayers parts fiche shows the white spacer for the 86, same part number as for my 98. "Ring", they call it, #13387-44030, same for both 86 and 98.

I have an extra one somewhere in my garage if you want it. I'll have to dig it up. You can pitch it in and see if your flooding subsides.

It's really not an evil white spacer, we sickies just wish the needle had an e-clip to adjust the needle position like on an old dirt bike. That's what the dynojet kit gives you but at a price.

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/24/05 at 09:41:08

yes sir if you can find it that would be great I have been tinkering and turning trying to fix this problem if it is just a little plastic washer I am going to be pissed and happy at the same time >:( ;D as long as it fixes the problem. do you have a link to the fiche that shows that washer to make sure I put it in the right place. I am pretty sure of the location but would like to be positive. I may also try the 2 #4 washer trick and see if that helps. I can't belive I didn't ask this question earlyer I just assumed that with the different jet my carb was different. ??? 8) 8) 8) bobo your a life saver 8)

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/24/05 at 14:47:11

bobo383 wrote:

bobo do you mean 1.5 to 2 turns out from all the way in or from stock location?

And as you tighten the screw does it get rich or lean?

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by WD on 04/24/05 at 15:29:37

Mine is best at 2 turns out from the stock location. However, that is with open(ish) pipe, stock spacer, and stock jetting. I know that I SHOULD increase the fuel flow with the open pipe, but I'm unwilling to cut my mpg. The bike runs fine as is, so, I'll mess with the cosmetic junk all day, but leave the carb alone. Besides, I break out in spots everytime I even THINK of opening the carb. For some reason, carbs or EFI and I don't get along very well. ::) ??? ::)

Mine probably only runs okay because the air filter is dirty enough to richen up the fuel mix. As soon as I add a new filter, I'll likely have to tinker with the carb. :'(
-WD

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by slavy on 04/24/05 at 16:14:10

To go back to the original question- You don't have to remember the setting. Just Worm- up the bike and set the idle speed around 1100-1200 RPM with the finger knob. Now start messing with the mixture screw. Turn it out until the RPMs start dropping. Turn it in and count the turns. The RPMs will slightly go up and after 1-2 turns they will start dropping again. Devide the number of total turns in 2 and unscrew the screw this number of turns. This should put You right in the middle of usable range.
BUT when I am reading the original post I see the bike starts leaking gas from the vent tube, so You definitely have a fuel level problem. The most probable, knowing the age of the bike, is some chunk of rust or dirt is stuck in the fuell valve and doesn't let the fuel valve to close. The same problem might be caused by a bad rubber O-ring between the f. valve and the carb. body. One way or the other You will have to take the bottom of the carb. apart and go thru it.

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/24/05 at 17:31:55

Thank you all This will help in the troubleshooting I got the #4 washers hope to put them in this week I will let you know how it goes while I am doing that I have a inline filter to put in also. 8)

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by bentwheel on 04/24/05 at 17:46:18

Keep in mind that the 1986 carb has an adjustable jet needle with three positions to set the clip on. If your spacer is removed you should probably have the clip on the top position. For a reference my 86 has the spacer installed; clip on the bottom position and the air screw turned out 5 turns. Stock setting is spacer in; clip in middle position, air screw 3 1/4 turns out.

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by bobo383 on 04/24/05 at 18:36:50

Oklahoma_Mike wrote:

Link to the Ron Ayers Fiche: http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0039/carburetor/carburetor.cfm?man=su&groupid=7060&parent=7050 The "turns" term is from all the way in.

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/25/05 at 05:48:37

Ok I admit it ??? maybe I don't know what we are talking about. :-[ bobo what is the number of the washer in the fiech? thank you 8)

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Reelthing on 04/25/05 at 05:53:01

item #6 in the fiche

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/25/05 at 10:15:39

Thank you sir im dying to get this fixed weathers been great. darn >:( 8)

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by sunny on 04/25/05 at 10:56:51

do not forget that there are rubber parts in the petc0ck that can wear out and emulate a carb problem.

that said, does it flood when set on "prime" as well as "on"?

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/26/05 at 05:17:07

sunny wrote:

do not forget that there are rubber parts in the petc0ck that can wear out and emulate a carb problem.

that said, does it flood when set on "prime" as well as "on"?

good question I hadn't thought of that Ill check it and let you know. thank you

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Reelthing on 04/26/05 at 05:53:30

If gas is running out the vent it seems the best bet is the float/needle/seat is ill in some way - you can eyeball the needle - one that drove me near crazy was a float that had a pin hole and get enough gas in it to sink a little bit.
On the other deal of rich idle and the air screw not doing much - I note that you had the carb apart or you wouldn't know if the white spacer is there or not - if we assume the float business is aok - you might want to take the diaphm slide back out - when you put it back in before if it was not real real clean (like some oil off your hands onto the slide) it can bind a little as it trys to go to the bottom of the travel - you can tell if this was the issue - when you take the slide out look real close in the aluminum tube it fits in and see if there is a small dark ring if so this is enough to not let it close the main jet, if it is there wipe it all down clean. Been there.

Title: Ok - stupid question RPM's
Post by russ on 04/26/05 at 06:45:04

Ok, how are you guys measuring RPM's? Is there a tool of choice? You haven't all added on a tach have you?

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Reelthing on 04/26/05 at 08:57:20

I did install a barrons tach - but the tinytach one wire tach works real fine for in the garage - just doesn't update real fast - I think the "standard" model for $30 or updates once second

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/26/05 at 10:02:36

Reelthing wrote:

I will check that as well that is possible. I am thinking of Just putting in the edelbrock :-/ I have and then tearing down the mukin. It has been killing me to not put it on, but I wanted to make sure everything on the bike was working right first ??? Who else is running the edelbrock quicksilver carb?

hey Russ no tach here I just hot wire one in as needed 8)

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by lancer on 04/26/05 at 20:43:23

MIke,go ahead and put the Edelbrock on the bike. If you are having problems now with the stock carb then take the sucker off, and put the Edelbrock on. They work good...good power, great response.

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by klx650sm2002 on 04/27/05 at 05:14:22

Hey Mike

Go for it with the Edelbrock.

Clive W :D

Title: Re: air adjust screw
Post by Oklahoma_Mike on 04/27/05 at 05:23:51

Think I will this weekend (sceamin :o demon) supost to be clear and 75 light wind. I got to get out there weeeee 8)